Long Tubes
#21
You got your sh*t backwards. Stainless steel are more money and will NOT rust. Ceramic Coated help keep temps down but will also rust from the inside out.
Rust is debatable, SS might rust eventually depending on what its exposed to. Still nothing wrong with it at all. I love my blue tinted ARH
#23
Not trying to start a feud or anything buy how do you figure? Every Stainless Steel header I have seen is always more money then ceramic coated. I have put on and have have experience with many 304 grade stainless steel products and have yet to see any rust. Ceramic Coated on the other have I have seen alot of cases of hooker and bbk ceramic coated headers rust from the inside out. But I do agree with you that ceramic helps keep temps down.
#24
$100 difference
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-ch...ders-2005.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-sh...t-ceramic.html
$140 difference
http://www.lethalperformance.com/exh...llector-p-3335
http://www.lethalperformance.com/exh...-collec-p-3336
I have never seen ceramic cheaper
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-ch...ders-2005.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-sh...t-ceramic.html
$140 difference
http://www.lethalperformance.com/exh...llector-p-3335
http://www.lethalperformance.com/exh...-collec-p-3336
I have never seen ceramic cheaper
#25
When they ceramic coat them, are they coating stainless or mild steel? I've heard if you get ceramic coated, they use mild steel. To me, that explains why they can tend to rust from the inside, as stainless doesn't usually rust. I figure coating stainless would be very expensive. Thoughts?
#26
When they ceramic coat them, are they coating stainless or mild steel? I've heard if you get ceramic coated, they use mild steel. To me, that explains why they can tend to rust from the inside, as stainless doesn't usually rust. I figure coating stainless would be very expensive. Thoughts?
#28
There are a ton of available test stations to go to so thats always a plus.
#30
With that setup i was making right at 310 rwhp and about the same for torque. Stock my car only dynoed 260ish horsepower with the 20x10 Black/Machined Carroll Shelby CS40s on it (same rims were on the car after the mods were done). So i gained 50ish rwhp with the headers, Comp Stage 2 NSR cams, Steeda/FRPP intake with high flow elbow and a Brenspeed dyno tune. After having parts installed the car loved to rev and would keep pulling all the way to red line, and probably would have continued to pull past 6500 rpms but i wouldn't want to do it with the stock valve train. There was only a slight change in the daily drive ability of the car, but nothing major to worry about. The only thing i would suggest is to go with 3.73 or 4.10 gears to help get the most out of the gains in the upper rpm range. My car gained a pretty decent amount throughout the power band but really showed good gains over 4500 rpms. If i had to do it over again i would, just probably would have went a little more aggressive on the cam profile (such as Comp SPR Stage 3 Cams) and installed better springs and retainers. As far as inspection goes i passed without a problem, but all they do is look under the car with a mirror and check for cats, then do the OBD2 testing, here in Nashville, TN.
Last edited by moburto07GT; 01-28-2010 at 01:31 AM.