2005-2014 Mustangs Discussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.

Are 11s in my future?.....

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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 07:22 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 09blkgtcal
That 12.98 wasnt on drags right?
Yep, sure was.
Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:48 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 07CaliGTstang: Nah, I heard the Mopar throttle body will give me 30. I think I'll go with that one.
i never heard of that throttle body got ne more info on it or a website i can check it out on. would appreciate ne info thanx
Old Feb 9, 2010 | 04:35 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Jer5757
i never heard of that throttle body got ne more info on it or a website i can check it out on. would appreciate ne info thanx
I was actually just kidding. There has been plenty of data out there that shows upgrading throttle bodies on an N/A car does not gain you much power, although dynos of throttle boides with the new intake manifolds have shown gains of 5-8 HP. But who cares about dyno #s, especially if you don't race the car.
Old Feb 9, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 07CaliGTstang
Awesome!
Nah, I heard the Mopar throttle body will give me 30. I think I'll go with that one.

Originally Posted by Jer5757
i never heard of that throttle body got ne more info on it or a website i can check it out on. would appreciate ne info thanx
Old Feb 9, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #45  
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some adj. shock/struts set at full soft in the front and close to full soft in the rear will lower your 60 some as well. i think that should be your next buy to achieve your goal. good luck.

Edit: DS would be on my list also ive seen some good deals advertised in this site lately.
Old Feb 9, 2010 | 04:02 PM
  #46  
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Well, you don't want to be too soft in the rear, right? You want to control weight transfer. In the front a double adjustable is best with a soft rebound setting and stiff compression, and moderately stiff in the rear. You want maximum extension up front, and don't want it to compress too quickly. Removing the front swaybar further extends that travel. But in the rear, that takes a bit of tuning, as you don't want the rear to compress too quickly. I've found midlevel settings in the rear give me fairly consistent 1.5x to 1.61 60 foots.

Of course it depends on the tire type, and air pressure, but the above works well for bias ply drag tires at moderate 12-15psi settings. If you're using drag radials with stiffer side walls, higher psi settings may be warrented with slightly softer shock settings. Depends on the setup...it gets worse when you factor in spring rates...
Old Feb 9, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #47  
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I am NOT touching the stock shocks/struts as of yet. I am trying to get in the 11s with as little modifications as possible.

Thanks for the support folks.
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 07:44 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by jwgroovin
Well, you don't want to be too soft in the rear, right? You want to control weight transfer. In the front a double adjustable is best with a soft rebound setting and stiff compression, and moderately stiff in the rear. You want maximum extension up front, and don't want it to compress too quickly. Removing the front swaybar further extends that travel. But in the rear, that takes a bit of tuning, as you don't want the rear to compress too quickly. I've found midlevel settings in the rear give me fairly consistent 1.5x to 1.61 60 foots.

Of course it depends on the tire type, and air pressure, but the above works well for bias ply drag tires at moderate 12-15psi settings. If you're using drag radials with stiffer side walls, higher psi settings may be warrented with slightly softer shock settings. Depends on the setup...it gets worse when you factor in spring rates...
The idea behind softER in the rear is you want maximum weight transfer to the back tires for friction and traction. to hard and you will get some unwanted wheel hop and the weight transfer back to the front too quickly.
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 07:54 AM
  #49  
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I'm very happy with consistent 1.5-1.6 sixty foots using moderate settings in the rear. Soft settings pulled the nose in the air which looks cool but isn't the most efficient way to get the car to hook and move quickly. I think you're missing the point regarding weight transfer but it's a free country...no worries.
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:06 AM
  #50  
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Curious...

Are you planning on hitting 11's with just bolt-ons, no engine work or added, and FULL WEIGHT?

I don't see a 3700lb car(With Driver) making a tad over 300 RWHP, running 11's. I can see a weight reduced, slick/skinny 3V with a nice set of Cams running 11's, but, not your current setup.

Nothing wrong with aiming for the moon. Good luck.



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