Bored at work, came up with my ideal sound system to replace the 1000.
#1
Bored at work, came up with my ideal sound system to replace the 1000.
Ok, I've been thinking about it a long time. I like my factory system, as it sounds better than a lot of factory radios out there. But, it's still in fact just a factory setup. So, since I'm stuck here on a Sunday at work with internet access, I figured I post up what I'd like to have in the stang. This setup of course requires the complete removal of the factory setup.
The main amplifier:
JL G6600
The reason I chose this amp is I want to retain the use of 6 mid range speakers. I don't want to run multiple amps, and JL has never let me down. Plus, this bad boy has 6 channels.
Rear deck and door speakers coax's:
JL C2-570X
I've never tried JL coax's before, but these look pretty solid.
Door woofers:
JL 6W3v3
I'm guessing the stock door woofers are 6.5". My only concern is whether or not these would have clearance issues.
Again, the 4 5X7's and pair of 6.5's would run off the main 6 channel amp.
Now, the factory subs would get thrown out and replaced with a stealthbox:
The one for our cars holds a 13.5" W6v2.
The sub amp
JL G1700
I'm the kind of guy that has to have all the same look. So this particular amp seems to do the job. At first I was going to pick the G1300, which is a 300 watt amp. I figure I don't need to much juice going to the sub, as I mainly listen to metal (thrash, heavy, metalcore), but it's a class A/B amp. My experience on a subwoofer is to go with a class D. They run so much cooler, and are so much more efficient. Plus they can produce lower frequencies.
I haven't chosen a head unit yet. It would be a double din touch screen with navi. Again, just bored here. Feel free to comment or post up what you'd want to do.
The main amplifier:
JL G6600
The reason I chose this amp is I want to retain the use of 6 mid range speakers. I don't want to run multiple amps, and JL has never let me down. Plus, this bad boy has 6 channels.
Rear deck and door speakers coax's:
JL C2-570X
I've never tried JL coax's before, but these look pretty solid.
Door woofers:
JL 6W3v3
I'm guessing the stock door woofers are 6.5". My only concern is whether or not these would have clearance issues.
Again, the 4 5X7's and pair of 6.5's would run off the main 6 channel amp.
Now, the factory subs would get thrown out and replaced with a stealthbox:
The one for our cars holds a 13.5" W6v2.
The sub amp
JL G1700
I'm the kind of guy that has to have all the same look. So this particular amp seems to do the job. At first I was going to pick the G1300, which is a 300 watt amp. I figure I don't need to much juice going to the sub, as I mainly listen to metal (thrash, heavy, metalcore), but it's a class A/B amp. My experience on a subwoofer is to go with a class D. They run so much cooler, and are so much more efficient. Plus they can produce lower frequencies.
I haven't chosen a head unit yet. It would be a double din touch screen with navi. Again, just bored here. Feel free to comment or post up what you'd want to do.
#7
^^I like the use of the factory door subs, that's why I'd want to use that instead of kick panels.
I figures I could just fabricate spacer rings as mentioned, too. But these subs are only 3.85" deep, so I'm wondering if they'd still fit without modification.
I figures I could just fabricate spacer rings as mentioned, too. But these subs are only 3.85" deep, so I'm wondering if they'd still fit without modification.
#9
^^if I get some time I'll do just that. I'm curious, though, that for the time being I just go with the main amp and speakers, say, leave the stealth box and sub amp out of the equation, how it will compare to just the shaker 1000. Those door subs look pretty beefy. But I don't know the volume of the doors, so it could or could not sound good with the door woofers.
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