Ford put in a safety-clause type thing with the new transmissions.. Where you can't just throw the car into reverse when moving forward so that you have to be in neutral or however it is, that your rear-end doesn't get f'ed up.. might be an issue with that.

 

1. Engaging from a stop into first or reverse is very hard to do.
2. As I try to enter first gear the car will start to “rock or creep” forward while trying to enter the gear (with the clutch in, the clutch is not engaged).
3. Once in first gear on flat ground the car will creep forward slowly if I take my foot off the brake (the clutch pedal is up and the clutch is not engaged). I have not tried with reverse yet. When I take it out of gear and let my foot off the brake the car does not move.
4. When shifting into second sometimes the car will grind, even if the clutch is pushed in and not engaged.
5. Once the car is rolling shifting 2nd – 5th gear is like butter.
6. When the car is off all gears shift perfectly.
It seems the clutch is not fully disengaging making shifts harder while at a stop.

 

id take it to the dealer ASAP. hopefully your warranty is still available

 

my warranty is still available because I haven't modified anything yet... this is why I am sticking with roush/frpp parts yeah they may not be the best out there but at least I won't have to pay for new transmission parts

 

I agree, sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging. Shifting into first would be nigh-on impossible if the input shaft is spinning.

Even if you had done mods, it would have to be proven that the mod directly caused the failure, and the only thing I can think of that would give you trouble in this regard is an aftermarket clutch. So even if you had done mods, as long as a hi po clutch wasn't among them you'd be fine.

 

what would be the fix to help the clutch disengage? And the time frames for this fix?

 

Clutch cable might be binding, throw-out bearing might be failing, fingers might be bent... there's all sorts of things. Any fix will more than likely entail removing the transmission to get to the clutch, so I'd expect for it to be in the shop for at least a day, maybe two.

 

As a Fiat owner for over 35 years, this sounds very much like a hydraulic problem.

I have replaced/bled many Italian hydraulic clutches and the key is bleeding (air in the lines).

If I am not mistaken, our Mustangs use an hydraulic clutch and shares fluid with the brake system. On a new car, I would suspect three possibilities: 1. air captured in the hydraulic lines. 2. a kink in the hydraulic line, or 3. a leak in the hydraulic line.

A leak would be easy to locate, just look for puddles. A kink would require an eye inspection, or a pressure test. This could be done at the dealer. I am not familiar with the bleed procedure, but I am sure the dealer would do it upon request for it would be a quick and easy fix.

What you are describing does not occur in any way on my 5-sp 2010 GT.

Good luck.

Oh, one more thing...just a stupid idea...Could a floor mat not allow the clutch to fully disengage? Like I said, just a stupid idea...

 

Can't really be floor mat because ours are held in place by two little plastic things... however I did check before it went in... I dropped it off at the dealership today... Service guy said this is the first one to come in for this problem

 

I thought Mustangs were 100% resistant to Toyotitis.