Okay I am going to be installing my nsr N/A Detroit rockers and I need some clarification. When doing the cam swap without the spring compressor, do you remove the cam bearing caps while the timing mark is as 1 o clock or at 7 o clock? In hammerons write up he only has the timing mark at the 1 o clock position while the cam followers are being removed correct? I am going to inch out the bolts 1/4 turn at a time so I will not be using the spring compressor. Anyway how have you guys done it?

 

mark the chain and sprocket on both sides so you can put them back to the same location. Make sure the chain does NOT fall off during the swap.
You'll also need two new cam sprocket bolts, as they are one-time use.

You can remove the cam the way you describe, and that's how I removed and installed my cams.

 

Wish I could help you Loudnlow but I am not a mechanic. But, I really am looking forward to your impressions on this mod. I am ready to add cams myself.

Somebody with knowledge will chime in soon.

patrick

 

If you have the Detroit Rocker cams then call Brenspeed ever time I have purchased anything that I was installing they where great.
I love my set of Detroit Rocker Cams. They Rock! And the T-shirt

TW

 

Well give us some more details on you Detroit Rockers....I get mine in 2 weeks.
Thanks,

 

see if you can find sr knights post on his hotrod cam installation, do mark both the chain and sprocket so they will be indexed back exactly the same, on his he layed a broom handle across the engine bay and zip tied the sprocket up so this was held in place the whole time. if a guy could successfully do it that way I would think they wouldn't even need the chain wedge. I wish someone would make a video of a cam install doing the cram down method,

keep us posted on how it goes, like how much time it took, some pics would be cool too, one thing I haven't seen is what the valves with the followers on look like without the cam on them, take that pic if you can.

I have never done it so I don't have a clue, but I would think when swapping the cam you would want the least about of valves being pressed open by the cam at that time. what ever position that is, to me seems like common sense.

 

1 o'clock and I just started removing those things. How ever I did a couple turns at a times.

Here is why;
As you turn them off you will notice that un-even pressure will begin to be applied to a certain cap. If that cap no long has pressure applied to it then that means why not undo the next cap until that cap has pressure reapplied to it. It may sound strange in writing but I promise you will see what I am talking about once you start it.

Just reverse the process putting them back in. I used the recommended Ford pattern and applied the same logic as above. I would bolt the cap on until there was slight pressure on it then I would go 1 full turn and then move to the next one. If that one had no pressure I would tighten it down until there was minor pressure on it and then 1 full turn...

Make sense?

Time wise. I could do it alone in about 2 hours.

 

i know what you are saying is right booz, but reading it and
looking at your car on the wrecker has got my mind going
in circles.

 

haha!!! Yeah, but it being broke is all due to KOOKS having ****ty high-flow cats...

I can proudly say I didn't nothing wrong except buy those...

 

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...installed.html


Our method for holding the chain worked, but I would have felt better if I did have the wedge instead of the hose. The wedge would hold the chains tighter than a hose. I also held up on the chain/sproket while the cams were swapped to be extra safe because I was paranoid as hell about jumping out of time.

Many doods over on s197forum say that they always remove the front cover (including BBR) when doing a cam swap. I think there's a tool that will hold the chain in place that's more secure than the wedge but requires the front cover to be off. Plus you can then see the chains on the lower sprockets and mark them.