Installing Eibach Pro Kit Lowering Springs question...
05-01-2010, 06:28 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Missouri
Posts: 142
Installing Eibach Pro Kit Lowering Springs question...
I baught a set of Eibach lowering springs and want to install them on my 2010 GT and was curious if I am going to run into any issues? For instance am I going to be able to use my stock struts over and still be safe? They are rated at dropping the cars ride height 1.3" in the front and 1.5" in the back. Also since it requires removing the strut to change the front springs, is it safe to say a front end alignment will be required, or is there some trick to avoid messing the alignment up?
05-01-2010, 08:19 AM
#5
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Missouri
Posts: 142
I was told buy the vendor that sold me the set that I would not need any addition items to install the springs. I was thinking he may be FOS. So I was right in thinking that or is there a way to get it aligned with out the CC plates?
05-01-2010, 08:42 AM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 303
Your right he is FOS, you need the plates
05-01-2010, 08:55 AM
#8
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 2,612
I'm running mine and so far with no allighnment or plates or bolts.
Unless you screw something up, it will run fine for a long time like this. No odd tire wear or anything yet. My thing though is this: I went into the project knowing I will eventualy get the shocks/struts too. So for now, with just springs in, I am going to run it how it is, because it drives fine, and have a professional alighnment done when I am done messing around in there. From what I was told, because your only going down 1.3 in the front, 1 set of bolts for the front offers more then enough adjustment, and that the $200+ set plates is way overkill for most peoples applications and use.
Unless you screw something up, it will run fine for a long time like this. No odd tire wear or anything yet. My thing though is this: I went into the project knowing I will eventualy get the shocks/struts too. So for now, with just springs in, I am going to run it how it is, because it drives fine, and have a professional alighnment done when I am done messing around in there. From what I was told, because your only going down 1.3 in the front, 1 set of bolts for the front offers more then enough adjustment, and that the $200+ set plates is way overkill for most peoples applications and use.
05-01-2010, 09:29 AM
#9
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
You can get camber BOLTS.
Or upper strut mount caster plates.
And the relocation of the rear of the
reverse L is needed for proper steering geometry
along with a bump steer kit to get those tie rod ends properly aligned.
Your struts are bolted to the spindles with
no alignment 'slots'. The removal and replacement
is simple and basic alignment is easily reobtained.
Watch this video and see the whole process online.
Dont follow everthing as they get some of it DEAD wrong.
Like removing the brake calipers to do the job is just stupid. And on TV to boot...
Dont reuse and one time use hardware.Get the replacements from Ford.
(or use lots of blue locktite and a good torque wrench)
ouch I hit a tree cus my suspension gave way from reusing
one time use fastners....
You dont know what you are missing until you get your
suspension geometry back to how Ford designed it.
Its gotta be a bump steering wandering fun to keep
centered ride that keeps you on the edge of your seat 24/7.
I would just skip the springs and reduced suspension travel and the new shocks/struts
camber plates/bolts and get the dropped spindles. Same ride as Ford designed it but
without the grand canyon gaps above the tires.
Or upper strut mount caster plates.
And the relocation of the rear of the
reverse L is needed for proper steering geometry
along with a bump steer kit to get those tie rod ends properly aligned.
Your struts are bolted to the spindles with
no alignment 'slots'. The removal and replacement
is simple and basic alignment is easily reobtained.
Watch this video and see the whole process online.
Dont follow everthing as they get some of it DEAD wrong.
Like removing the brake calipers to do the job is just stupid. And on TV to boot...
Dont reuse and one time use hardware.Get the replacements from Ford.
(or use lots of blue locktite and a good torque wrench)
ouch I hit a tree cus my suspension gave way from reusing
one time use fastners....
suspension geometry back to how Ford designed it.
Its gotta be a bump steering wandering fun to keep
centered ride that keeps you on the edge of your seat 24/7.
I would just skip the springs and reduced suspension travel and the new shocks/struts
camber plates/bolts and get the dropped spindles. Same ride as Ford designed it but
without the grand canyon gaps above the tires.
Last edited by 157dB; 05-01-2010 at 09:40 AM.
05-01-2010, 09:50 AM
#10
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 2,612
Its not that bad, but like I said and agree with you, it isn't "right" either. I just don't want to pay to do the job twice so from where I am at now, when I get my Tocikos I'm going to add the bolts and the bump steer kit, get it all aligned at once.