I'm in South East CT. The shop was All-Pro automotive in Old Lyme... BUT the re did my rear twice and still had noise. The third time I went in there and worked with there tech, but essntialy did it myself, with there tools. The only reason I just didnt do it myself to begin with, was the cost to buy the specialty tools was going to be more then the $300 they charged me for install.

All that said, if your anywhere near there, Talk to Jeff, hes the shop manager, tell him Jason with the orange mustang sent you, he will know who your talking about, and ask if you can have Steve help your with your install, as he was the one that I worked side by side with, and i think he really gets it now. ZERO noise from my rear end, could not be happier.

 

Oh yeah, I'm in central right next to Hartford but I hiked all the way down to Mongillo Motors in New Haven to have my install done. They noted that there is "no warranty" on the gears because they were "used" but if the hitch is in their install work and not the gears themselves shouldn't they fix it? I just want it to be right...

 

Pull the diff cover and have them do a pattern check on the gears. If the pattern is right on then you bought some noisey gears.

 

So it would seem that after putting 200 miles on the new set of "used gears) there is MINIMAL whine up to 55 MPH. After 55 MPH, the whine becomes apparent and definitely noticeable; even more so on deceleration. The whine is louder (acceleration) the harder I go on the throttle (so far have only taken it to 80). I took my buddy for a ride tonight to gain his opinion and he also thinks that something is set up wrong out of spec. To him, the whine is "very loud" (I didn't think it was that loud but I have never had any experience with gear whine; he is also a Chevy guy; f/g-body) whereas I thought it was just a tad on the loud side.

Any new opinions given this new information?

Ya thats what I'm thinking (have them check it out when/if I have them replace the gear oil after 500 or so miles). The shop owner asked what type of oil I got for them to use (he didn't do the install) and when I told him I spent $60 on Amsoil he said, "don't even worry about changing it after 500 miles." I am just worried that by putting more and more "break in" miles on the car, it will permanently effect the pattern/teeth on the ring and pinion (or should I not worry about this?)...

Thanks,
Sharkbait20

 

my 4.10s are awesome, I love them. but honestly if u drive a manual and put 4.10s in u should expect to be shift more frequently if u drive hard to begin with. I still go through all my gears I'd say 90% of the time, I got a manual because I enjoy driving my car, not just putting it in drive and going...

as for the original post, I'd agree with JD but I'd also have to say this all Stimson from them being 'used'

 

I think I read something like between 7 and 14 thousandths...
I would also think that they still need to be "broken in" because they are not set up exactly the same as the previous installation.

 

sorry sharkbait, changed my whole story on ya heh

and yeah I do see what you're saying, not everything would be the same spec

 

The pattern can be right all day long, thats only checking the mesh and backlash are right. The bearing preload is usualy wrong with this noise, you would not see that in paint. People not understanding that is why customers get turned away by shops that do gear installs and dont know what there doing.

 

you do not break in a noise. 9.9 times out of 10, will do nothing. It makes noise when out of spec. The hope is if you drive it long enough, it will wear itself into spec before the part out right fails.

GREAT info:
http://www.superstallions.com/tech/d...ars/gears.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8APYO2sZyJU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-RyF...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8bLF...eature=related


Hope that helps you

 

very interesing JD. do you need to have the diff cover off in order to tighten the carrier preload or have to have the rear axle out of the car like in that video? Or is this somethign that could be done with the axle still on the car?

Based on the previous information you have given me, you are suggesting that I do not have enough carrier preload and the diff is spinning too much?
Thanks