3fan

Ok so when chaning out the brake fluid on these cars does it affect the clutch. I know some cars use it for the clutch also.

Stormracer

I am doing that myself this week. I am doing a hill climb this weekend, so I am upgrading to Carbo Tech AX6 pads, Brembo LCF600 fluid, Braided stainless lines, and I am using Speedbleeders. Good Luck with your brake job!

Alec

No luck tonight...

Called one of my Mustang friends over to help, we pushed back the pistons with no avail. It seems like the rotor & pads are too thick for the caliper. (Which makes no sense to me since all the parts are apparently for the v6 model) Is there something I'm missing? Didn't even have a chance to try the rears.

Put it back together for the night since its 11:30, and am gonna try the rears instead tomorrow. Hopefully with more luck

I don't know if it helps, but I'm using Hawk HPS front & rear pads from AM, the v6 brake conversion kit from Moss Muscle (front rotors and caliper brakets)

Unleashedbeast

If you open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to escape while you compress the cylinder, it can be compressed with your fingers alone. Takes some pressure, but I've done it with my fingers. You have to flush your fluid anyway, and it makes it EASY. No tool required.

Even if you don't flush it, and you do allow some air in the caliper, all you have to do is a quick bleed to remove the air. Just make sure you close it soon as the cylinder is all the way compressed into the caliper.

Alec

I guess it is time to replace the brake fluid

We got both pistons compressed and it still wouldn't go on (Front driver's side). Do you think bleeding would make a difference/it go on?

incorrigible

If the piston is all the way in (you should be able to tell be looking at it to see if it is flush with the back of the caliper) and the caliper will not go on, something is wrong. Opening the bleeder screw won't help if the piston is bottomed out already in the caliper.

Did you check the thickness of the rotors you have vs. the the old ones? Are they the same?

Are you sure the pads are the correct ones?

Alec

I'm using these pads which say they're for GT/V6
http://www.americanmuscle.com/hawk-2...rake-pads.html

And the rotors are the same. The only difference is that they aren't worn down and they have a larger circumference and I'm using the larger brackets.
http://www.mossmuscle.com/Shop/ViewP...eIndexID=72228

Maybe the caliper pistons can be compressed a little more but I don't know if that will make a difference

jahudso2

If your pads were pretty worn, you are going to have to push those pistons in A LOT. If you are going to flush new fluid through, try opening the bleeder screw like previously mentioned.

Alec

I'm thinking I might try the rears and give the fronts one more shot and then take it to someone. probably not today though, it's raining here

kevinmalec

On the website, it states the new rotors are larger. Maybe contact the company you purchased the rotors from and ask if there's anything additional needed or if they have any pointers before you start to install the new rotors/pads. Worth a try!
Good luck!