ximending

So i'm prob gonna try to get one of those new mustang GT's.

base GT
3.73
brembo pkg

or if i can somehow get a really good price

GT premium
3.73
brembo pkg

i'm not really good at haggling with dealers so that will probably be my downfall. I'm considering signing up for mca for $50 and get the x-plan because I think that is the best price right? it's 99.6% of invoice?

is there any of you guys who got a 2011 under invoice and if so how/where?

thanks.

Black Chrome

I got a 2010 GT500 @ family pricing!

Derf00

Negotiating is easier with Cash, how much are you brining? 10% is a good start, 15% is better. Also, do a credit check on yourself with the score so you know in advance what kind of loan you can get.

Dealerships always have ways to hide fees and stuff. They may cut you a deal on the car but screw you on financing (really high rate which gets them more money)

Don't pay for GAP insurance unless you are financing the car 100% and your insurance doesn't already have it (usually for free or a helluva lot cheaper than the dealer).

You should also consider that because there are still plenty of 2010's on the lot you may not get a smokin deal unless you buy a 2011 that's on the lot. If you can see which dealer has the car, or closest to it, it will save you that hassel.

ximending

hey thanks guys.

i'm going to finance but not through ford. Prob through penfed, bank of america, or capitalone.

so to them, it will be as if it were cash anyway.

Is it better to do everything through online internet dealer by email?
what about those prices through truecar.com or similar?
any opinions on those options vs. xplan?

Black Chrome

Family pricing is a large percentage, about 12% but its really hard to get on cars in demand . Derf is pretty much spot on, but id start with 15% so you dont end up lower than 10 in the end. Also, you can negotiate free oil changes, add ons and accessories.

good luck

LostBoyz

ordered mine with A plan, $1k under invoice

that probably doesn't help any though

3.73-11

Easy just tell the dealer you won't pay more than invoice I've done that with my last three new mustangs its worked when the 10's came out and we're hot and it worked in june when the 11's we're hot and it worked again with ordering my latest stang
I would to help you post a link to the thread over on TMS that has all the invoice pricing&option package invoice pricing but this place blocks it for some reason?
That and if you don't know there is $500 off from ford on gt's right now*$1000 of v6s* plus if you are either a cop or current/former military you can get another $500 off.
And you can always try requesting a brochure from fords website just put in the request form that you plan to buy soon and you should get a $750 additional coupon. And don't count out ford's financing as their rates are pretty damn good as low as 3.9% for 60 months in my area.
Me I joined MCA to get the x plan pin that way you can't get screwed on the back end with doc fees etc. My dealer is actually taking an x plan pin and cutting some of the fees as well as giving me other things I wanted in the deal. Like window tint lowering spring swap taillight swap etc. Basically man unless you go deal with a real cool car guy salesman or sales manager expect to have to negotiate for everything you want off and expect them to counter to try and pack as much profit into the deal as they can. The easy way around is stand firm on whatever you decide you want and walk away if you don't get it. When/if you come you will more than likely end up either getting what you wanted in the first place or closer to where you wanted to be. Its always worked for me that's how I keep switching cars without losing more than I've made in payments*sometimes less*
To make it simple though just find out if they will take an x plan pin and go that route for me the x plan is helping me save $375 additional dollars due to the dealer charging me invoice for the car&options but packing their $699 doc fee on top whereas with the x plan pin i'm getting $210 over invoice but they can only charge me a $75 doc fee*I factored in the $50 mca membership fee*
Regardless good luck and stick to your guns man, it also helps if you have another dealer in mind that way you can play them against each other trust me someone will make the deal you want

2011CS/GT

Mine stickered for 39k and some change and ended up getting it for 33k and some change. I never buy the first day. I will let them check my credit so they know I can for sure buy the car. I never mention a trade in either. I always fill out the form and make sure my home phone is correct. After that I test drive the vehicle and then tell them I need to think about it and visit some other dealerships. They will usually try to stop you from leaving. LEAVE! They will call you in a day or 2. That is when you get down and dirty. After I negotiate a price on the new car I then tell them I have a trade in. It is much easier for me to do it this way. Otherwise I feel like they hide fees and charges within all the paperwork. I like 2 different sets of paperwork (new car/trade-in) so I know exactly what I am looking at and getting or paying. Just what works for me. I have bought about 13 cars in the last 20 years using this method.

DreamerGT

First look up and find 2 dealers in your area, then go to one and pick out the car you want. Then make up something and tell the guy you want to take the car home real quick and get an ok from the wife( just get him to let you test drive the car without him). You drive the car to the other dealer and ask them if they can beat the price on this car and make it worth my wild. There you get a new car at a cheaper price and that salesman will get a kick out of driving the other car back to the other dealer.

Taskiss

Are cars you order allowed to be purchased via x-plan?