marcuskeeler

Just Pony up and get it dyno tuned. Canned tunes, or "custom tunes delivered by post" for non stock setups are a best guess

08Steeda

Can't you run with the old tune and get it to the Dyno Shop? Obviously you would want to really baby it. But then it wouldn't stall on you.

Analyzer52

Did you read my post above yours?? This is not about saving money at all!!! I plan to have it dynoed, didn't buy a supercharger worried about saving money.

Never heard of anyone doing this would have to ask around, but the dyno shop is 2 hours away.

AMChrisRose

I guess everyone didn't realize that this is a circuit code?

Not lean codes, rich codes, or anything that would have to do with the short term fuel trims. This is a circuit code on the FRONT drivers side o2 sensor.

The fuel trims are pretty easy to nail on a 95mm C&L housing, as I've sent out probably 500+ C&L Racer tunes, in which this maf calibration is almost perfect, other than the bend after it is slightly different. The trims will vary within 5% at idle on this base tune (he's going to be getting it calibrated on the dyno soon, where the trims will run a little tighter when it's done being hammered down).

Regardless, this is not a fueling/calibration issue.

AMChrisRose

I've done over 45 mail order Edelbrock tunes with nothing but great results. Guys running mid-11s on my mail order tune. More importantly, I've had guys running the tunes now for over a year, and 20K+ miles.

A dyno tune isn't necessarily always the best. The best is going with an individual or company that is highly familiar with the combination. There are dyno tunes for shops that are better with 5.0's or maybe they dont do a ton of S197s, so our mail order tune at Bama, or my remote S/C tune will blow their in-house dyno tune away.

It's about experience with the application and with the platform. I'm always willing to prove it via third party testing.

Analyzer52

Chris the code needs to be clarified the code I'm getting is for the right side rear 02 and you are saying it is the front side left sensor.

Bank1 and cylinder 1 are always on the same side (which is the passenger side). My code is: P0135 OX S HTR CIR 1 S2

P0135 is the code

OX S= Oxgen Sensor

HTR CIR= Heater Circuit

1=Bank 1

S2=Sensor 2


The code you are talking about would be: P0135 OX S HTR CIR 2 S1 or P0135 OX S HTR CIR 1 S1 (right & left side respectively)

If this is not correct please explain and tell where your information is coming from because all thins I look up say what I have listed above. Sensor 2 is the convert emission sensor which should be off in the tune, you are telling this is for the front senor in the header?

AMChrisRose

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0141 That's the sensor 2 code.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0135 That's the sensor 1 code.

(both bank 1)

You keep saying you're getting P0135. P0135 is sensor 1. P0135 doesn't cover a bunch of different sensors, just one.

I'm not sure where the confusion is?

The rear o2 sensor is off (as you mentioned) in the tune. So it will not throw a code.

This is for the front o2 sensors that are in the header (the important ones that control/feedback fueling calibration).

marcuskeeler

My point is that it's easy to make up a tune and get pretty close when the motor is already stock. But to make up a tune for the blower which is installed on an already modded motor is very difficult if not impossible [to get perfect].
IMO a trusted dyno tuner is worth his weight in Gold.

Analyzer52

I'm having Chris do it because I trust him, wouldn't just let anyone do this he has a good reputation ask around. I'm simply trying to get to the bottom of this he gave me some stuff to check which will wait until tomorrow because it's dark right now.

Nothing has been modified on my car, what are you talking about? The only thing I have different is the cold air kit which is very similar to the edelbrock set up and not causing this kind of problem. Everything changed is all for the supercharger.

I'm assuming you are not talking about the long tubes because they are very common.

Analyzer52

Well I solved the problem today and it was my fault!!!

I put the C&L housing in upside down which causes the mass airflow sensor to face the wrong direction, which in turn caused everything else to go crazy.

All wires and everything were fine and it wasn't anything to do with the O2 sensors either.

It wasn't the tune as I thought it was a simple mistake that I shouldn't have made.

Haven't driven the car yet waiting for rush hour to be over before I take it for a spin.