urnamethere

so the clutch on my 05 v6 went out so i am replacing it with a spec stage 1, i havent done a clutch replacement before but i can work with tools pretty good. now my question is what else do i need to replace? i am resurfacing my flywheel but what about the throwout bearing, pilot bearing and slave cylinder would those need to be replaced aswell? perhaps someone here has or has came across a write up that would be really helpful, thanks

jimkaray

Th pilot bearing is cheap and easy to replace so definitively do that. The throwout bearing replacement is recommended but probably just because your already doing all the labor. It isn't that cheap so I did not replace mine.
Some of the tools I ended up needing:
A Torx socket for the flywheel bolts. I can't remember the size now.
I'll assume the correct disc alignment tool is available but I had to grind down the snout on the Ford one I had that matched the correct spline count. Its plastic so it wasn't that big a deal and saved a trip to the store.
Had to go to the store to by a bleeder pump. To bleed the hydraulic clutch you pull vacuum on the fluid reservoir as there isn't a bleeder valve. Some says they found a bleeder valve but non of the documentation mentions one and I don't see how I could have missed it. Could be some were built with one.
Other than that a good general assortment of tools are needed.

urnamethere

yeah thats what i have came up with so far, the pilot bearing is being swapped for sure and depending on the condition of the throwout one i will decide since i am on a budget. any tips or tricks to facilitate the install? any tricky bolts? whats this i hear about there being some one time use bolts?

irishman001

I would change out the slave cylinder while you are in there.

JDWalton

hey man, here is a video guide that I made. Its on a V8 but a lot will apply to you.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...deo-guide.html

You will need:
A Socket set
Torx bits for said socket set
A ratcheting box end set is very helpful
A Jack
jack stands, you will want to get all 4 corners in the air, as high as you can get em.
loc tite, I think you need blue and red.
brake cleaner and some rags
some extra extensions

jimkaray

Off hand I can't think of any 1 time bolts. I usually reuse them anyway so I may have just forgotten . There are always tricky bolts, the more tools you have the better you'll deal with them. If don't have air tools they are a big help and time saver.
You'll have to keep the trans & bell housing together when removing the trans. That makes it harder to get at the upper bell housing bolts as well as more awkward to remove. You'll probably have to drop the exhaust completely out of the way. I have the x pipe but the stock Y probably isn't any better.
The Centerforce clutch came with a nice plug for the hydraulic line so it won't leak all over once you disconnect it at the bell housing. Be ready for that when disconnecting it.
The shifter stays in the car, unlike the SN95/Fox, you just need to unbolt the linkage rods.

JD...nice job on the tutorial. this will give the op a good idea of what needs to be done. From what I saw the 4.0 has a few differences, the biggest being the flywheel design/set up. Op, be sure your shop has surfaced a 4.0 flywheel before as it isn't as simple to surface as the traditional flush design. Also, the bolts aren't hex headed but are Torx headed. The only design plus to me is that the pilot bearing sits in the flywheel making in easier to replace.
Here are pics of the CF Dual Friction clutch and the flywheel so you can see the Torx heads and the step design of the flywheel.

urnamethere

thanks for the help guys i will be starting this in a a few minutes, the tools i got covered i just need to run to the store to get loc tite cleaner etc.. i will let you all know how it goes, for the exhaust hopefully bi just dropping the h pipe i will have enough clearance to drop the tranny

vasman

Bro do yourself a favor. Rent or even buy a transmission lift. It will save you hours of aggravation. Buy new bolts for the flywheel. You may need to resurface the stock flywheel if you are re-using. Otherwise what the guys said and look for JD's writeup on the clutch. It helped me a lot.

On the clutch bleeding subject. Keep brake fluid tank closed. If you are careful when you pullout the connector, block it with your thumb immediately and then have a of "nipple" to cover it till you plug it back in later. I guess the right name would be vacuum taps or something.. (they look like thick miniature black condoms) get an assortment of those, as I do not know the exact size you need (my guess is 3/8's or so). This way you will barely get a couple of drops out if that. By doing this I just pumped my pedal a few times after I was done and never had to do any bleeding.

JDWalton

any updates? how is it going

urnamethere

well i have the car up on jack stands havent had too much time to work on it untill now but i took the driveshaft out h pipe off i know thats all the easy stuff but im finally going to have some time right now, i will update later