stealth_GT

400whp@7800 rpm sounds expensive and not very fun at all.

)-:

But I bet it sounds killer up top.. it better be, after how much it stalls at the light rofl

foolio2k4

all that plus Ported heads then Ford racing manifold.

but if you want power past 360+ you need engine work.

also, you can do electric water pump. which will free up power as well.

Unleashedbeast

Compile a build list and price for a N/A 4.6L 3V engine that will dyno 400 RWHP

Include all the tricks

stroked, cam, heads, intake, etc....

Compile a build list and price for a forced induction setup that will dyno 400 RWHP

That's an everyday common output with simple F.I. kits that are easy to come by, so no headache for this shopping list.

Now, after both builds...let's compare under the curve torque. Let's compare torque of both builds at the 3500 rpm range and less.

I guarantee, I'm going to beat you hands down. Even if you could buy cheap used parts for the N/A build to achieve those goals. The last person I read about who broke the 400 RWHP with a N/A 4.6L engine spent over 6,000 IIRC. You can spend less than that in a non intercooled F.I setup and have a much broader torque curve.

N/A builds on the 4.6 3V modular is NOT cost effective versus F.I.

No, 400 N/A RWHP is NOT easy, and it requires to much money for the results. If it were easy, everyone would be doing it. Nitrous is NOT considered N/A, as it's considered a power adder. Let's examine the abbreviation N/A.

N - Natural or Naturally
A- Aspiration or Aspirated

Does the extreme cooling of air that results from a shot of nitrous occur naturally in our atmosphere? No, it certainly does not. Therefore, your theory that it's "natural" couldn't be further from the truth. If you require nitrous (power adder) to achieve 400 RWHP, you do NOT have a N/A engine that is capable of 400 RWHP.

Nuke

+1 on 330 RWHP; perhaps 340; with your list. By the time you're done with additional mods to get you to 400RWHP NA you'll have spent more than had you gone FI and probably have a less reliable ride.

chain1

Would love to hear how.

Mudflap

Agreed FI is the most cost effective. I think N/A builds are cool, and I actually priced one out myself. It was going to cost 5-6k to have only about 350rwhp though. You can buy a Vortech standard kit from Brenspeed for $3899, which is what I did on the last car. Easy install and 415 to the wheels. I would only do an N/A build if that is your thing and you're interested in it for that reason. If power is the only goal, the supercharger makes a hell of a lot more sense.

07 Showstopper

Naturally aspirated refers to atmospheric pressure.That means to be n/a the car could not have anything that puts a vaccuum on the intake. Does nitrous put a vaccuum on the intake? No, it adds extra oxygen and therefore allows for extra molecules of air and fuel to combust, thus adding power.

That said, I do understand what he is trying to do in making it 400hp "all motor". I think it'd be a sick build and would be a fun car to drive. Definately go heads, cams, stroker kit, etc though if you do go all motor.

sailing220

No way you're gonna get 400+ with bolt ons.

Your list:

CAI+Tune
***** Thumpa Cams
JBA LT Headers + Catted H Pipe
Steeda U/D pulley
3.73 gear
Steeda motion delete plates

Probably 330 RWHP.

With heads and even a stroker block, maybe 380-390 RWHP.

With less money you could get to 435 RWHP easy using any SC or turbo. My $0.02.

Ric

Elanor05

What if he adds an Aluminum DS and Intake manifold to his list could he see 350rwhp?