headers and CAI
After looking/pricing some tweaks for my car, I settled on the BBK L/T headers, BBK shorty X (catted) and the Steeda CAI and SCT combo and the BBK underdrive pully to start off with...I have been reading up on the L/T header install and have a few questions for the guys who've done the mod. Is it absolutely necessary to remove the motor mounts? How much does the engine have to be lifted to remove the mounts? What is the best lifting point for the engine? I guess what I'm asking is how much of a bitch is it to install the headers without removing the mounts?
The underdrive pully... whats with the torque-turn on the harmonic bolt? Years ago, Mercury used to have us do that on head bolts on V6 outboard engines then stopped it soon after...I took it to be a dubious method at best.
When I order the cold air, do the bama guys need to know about the headers/pully to write the correct tune? What about the few mentions of the CEL? I am hoping to avoid any check engine issues. Lastly, I dont want my car to be crazy loud and I was hoping to reuse the exsisting mufflers...is this possible? Can I have performance and a sane but killer sound?
The underdrive pully... whats with the torque-turn on the harmonic bolt? Years ago, Mercury used to have us do that on head bolts on V6 outboard engines then stopped it soon after...I took it to be a dubious method at best.
When I order the cold air, do the bama guys need to know about the headers/pully to write the correct tune? What about the few mentions of the CEL? I am hoping to avoid any check engine issues. Lastly, I dont want my car to be crazy loud and I was hoping to reuse the exsisting mufflers...is this possible? Can I have performance and a sane but killer sound?
Removing the motor mounts is a walk in the park. Do a search for member timmbo longtubes. He has a thread outlining how he did his install. Talks about using a Jack with some wood to lift the motor. This is exactly what I did with my buddies help to install mine. It took quite some time to do the install but now after doing one I feel I could knock it out in a reasonable time. It's really only nuts and bolts. There are a lot of time saving tips if you research. One is having a 13 mm racheting box wrench. Man did I need one of those. Bought it the next week to retorque the manifold nuts.
Yes tell your tuner about your headers for sure. Stock mufflers will work very well with longtubes as they do open the sound up a lot.
Yes tell your tuner about your headers for sure. Stock mufflers will work very well with longtubes as they do open the sound up a lot.
Last edited by 808muscle; Oct 29, 2010 at 12:36 AM.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 16,182
From: PA to KY ('07) to IL ('09) to MS ('10) to FL ('11)
I can't speak on the LT install as I've never done one but regarding the tune to support your mods, just be sure to let your tuner know what mods you have. Although UDP's don't require a tune, it's best that the tuner be aware of it. They can set you up for the LT's with the catted X.
The stock axlebacks flow well and should be just fine with your new pipes. You should notice a definite increase in rumble and tone. You can play with your axlebacks at anytime without impacting your tunes.
The stock axlebacks flow well and should be just fine with your new pipes. You should notice a definite increase in rumble and tone. You can play with your axlebacks at anytime without impacting your tunes.
Good question. Certain brands are more tune friendly. Brenspeed told me this. It is the placement of the bungs for sensors. So I would always tell your tuner what brand you bought. I have pypes and was told they are tune friendly.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
junior04
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
1
Sep 28, 2015 10:53 AM




