What did you do with your Stereo?
#1
What did you do with your Stereo?
Ok, So pretty sure I'll add amp and subs. I know its not everyones cup of tea...So anyone have good placement for subs and amp? I'm pretty sure I'll need a new head unit and good head unit kits and any advice with the mustang dash...
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Ermmm... don't most base freaks put their subs in the trunk or cut a spot behind the head rests of the
rear seats by the rear window?
I don't think you'll be putting them on the side doors lol.
And I have NO idea what you meant in the title of your post "What did you do with your stereo?"
Sounds like you are asking if people sold their stereos or where they put their stereos in the car LOL
rear seats by the rear window?
I don't think you'll be putting them on the side doors lol.
And I have NO idea what you meant in the title of your post "What did you do with your stereo?"
Sounds like you are asking if people sold their stereos or where they put their stereos in the car LOL
Last edited by Blacksmoke; 11-06-2010 at 09:20 PM.
#3
yeah I guess it was a little confusing.I was distracted when I wrote it. Anywho what I meant by where did the put their amp and subs....wondering if there was enough room under driver seat for amp or did I have to shove everything in my trunk. If you placed it in your trunk how....I'm not sure what kind of stereo i had, but in my 04 (that I sold) had the premium sound system and it had a metal case in the rear that housed the amps. Ithink it had three amps....I didn't realize until now how many amps that thing had geesh! I'm going to google, but anyone got pictures of the shaker 1000.
#4
found pictures....http://forums.themustangsource.com/f...ctures-463562/
That is one HIDEOUS looking case.
That is one HIDEOUS looking case.
#5
If you want it to look worth a crap you need to have the speakers built into
the back of the car right above and behing the seats OR have them in the FAR back of the trunk itself.
As for the amp... have you not looked under your seats at all the metal there is and just how low it is to the ground? Put the amp in the trunk man.
I'm not a "system" type guy but this is not hard to figure out.
If you want it to look good get it built in.
I have never seen the shaker or what it looks like in the trunk so I can't say.
If you don't like it then don't get it that way though.
the back of the car right above and behing the seats OR have them in the FAR back of the trunk itself.
As for the amp... have you not looked under your seats at all the metal there is and just how low it is to the ground? Put the amp in the trunk man.
I'm not a "system" type guy but this is not hard to figure out.
If you want it to look good get it built in.
I have never seen the shaker or what it looks like in the trunk so I can't say.
If you don't like it then don't get it that way though.
Last edited by Blacksmoke; 11-07-2010 at 12:15 AM.
#6
If you want it to look worth a crap you need to have the speakers built into
the back of the car right above and behing the seats OR have them in the FAR back of the trunk itself.
As for the amp... have you not looked under your seats at all the metal there is and just how low it is to the ground? Put the amp in the trunk man.
I'm not a "system" type guy but this is not hard to figure out.
If you want it to look good get it built in.
I have never seen the shaker or what it looks like in the trunk so I can't say.
If you don't like it then don't get it that way though.
the back of the car right above and behing the seats OR have them in the FAR back of the trunk itself.
As for the amp... have you not looked under your seats at all the metal there is and just how low it is to the ground? Put the amp in the trunk man.
I'm not a "system" type guy but this is not hard to figure out.
If you want it to look good get it built in.
I have never seen the shaker or what it looks like in the trunk so I can't say.
If you don't like it then don't get it that way though.
I wish I knew about them before I had this custom box build for my jeep wrangler....but it does look nice.
#7
This is probably the wrong section to ask in, check the audio/video section lots of info there.
As for what I've done:
Pioneer Avic D3 DVD/NAV
Infinity Component Speakers up front
2 8" Pioneer Slim Subs in Doors
2 10" Apline Subs in trunk (one on either side in fibreglass enclosure)
3 Sony amps (1x4 channel and 2x2 channels)
The amps were screwed to the back seat. I can still pull the seat down but I wouldn't want to lay anything on them. Otherwise I did the work my self. Its pretty easy with the help of the guys on the forum.
A good place to shop or get reviews for parts is Crutchfield. They even offer support with your install over email & phone.
As for what I've done:
Pioneer Avic D3 DVD/NAV
Infinity Component Speakers up front
2 8" Pioneer Slim Subs in Doors
2 10" Apline Subs in trunk (one on either side in fibreglass enclosure)
3 Sony amps (1x4 channel and 2x2 channels)
The amps were screwed to the back seat. I can still pull the seat down but I wouldn't want to lay anything on them. Otherwise I did the work my self. Its pretty easy with the help of the guys on the forum.
A good place to shop or get reviews for parts is Crutchfield. They even offer support with your install over email & phone.
#8
I started out with the amp screwed to the back seat (in trunk) like gabb but eventually fabricated a couple brackets to bolt it to the void behind the passenger-side wheel well. The box rests pretty well on the incline of the back of the trunk floor, although it can move around; I gotta make up my mind about how I'm going to fasten it and still be able to take it out easily to make room for extra baggage on long trips.
With the shaker 500 (actually any of the stock stereos I believe), you're going to need a line-out converter or something more expensive/sophisticated as there are no pre-amp outs coming out of the stereo. You must tap into the rear speaker wires and then use the converter to make your own low level inputs for the amp. A lot of folks will tell you that the quality isn't great doing it this way. I would say it works fairly well, probably not ideal, but if you aren't willing to drop a load of cash on a new head unit then it's a decent alternative. One thing I miss is the flexibility of an aftermarket head unit to equalize/tune the signal. Luckily I have a gain remote on the amp that helps that out, but I'm sure a better head unit would really make it easier to dial in.
One more thing: the shaker has a funky remote signal. Most aftermarket amps need a 12V signal to turn on. The shaker's remote signal is only 5V. A lot of folks have just wired their amp's remote line to a switched power source (independent of the head unit), so that the amp will be on when your "accessories" are on. I chose to use the head unit's 5V remote signal and convert it to a usable 12V one via a relay. I wanted the amp to only ever be on when the radio was on (and actually put a switch in as well so I can turn off the amp even if the radio is on).
With the shaker 500 (actually any of the stock stereos I believe), you're going to need a line-out converter or something more expensive/sophisticated as there are no pre-amp outs coming out of the stereo. You must tap into the rear speaker wires and then use the converter to make your own low level inputs for the amp. A lot of folks will tell you that the quality isn't great doing it this way. I would say it works fairly well, probably not ideal, but if you aren't willing to drop a load of cash on a new head unit then it's a decent alternative. One thing I miss is the flexibility of an aftermarket head unit to equalize/tune the signal. Luckily I have a gain remote on the amp that helps that out, but I'm sure a better head unit would really make it easier to dial in.
One more thing: the shaker has a funky remote signal. Most aftermarket amps need a 12V signal to turn on. The shaker's remote signal is only 5V. A lot of folks have just wired their amp's remote line to a switched power source (independent of the head unit), so that the amp will be on when your "accessories" are on. I chose to use the head unit's 5V remote signal and convert it to a usable 12V one via a relay. I wanted the amp to only ever be on when the radio was on (and actually put a switch in as well so I can turn off the amp even if the radio is on).
#9
I started out with the amp screwed to the back seat (in trunk) like gabb but eventually fabricated a couple brackets to bolt it to the void behind the passenger-side wheel well. The box rests pretty well on the incline of the back of the trunk floor, although it can move around; I gotta make up my mind about how I'm going to fasten it and still be able to take it out easily to make room for extra baggage on long trips.
With the shaker 500 (actually any of the stock stereos I believe), you're going to need a line-out converter or something more expensive/sophisticated as there are no pre-amp outs coming out of the stereo. You must tap into the rear speaker wires and then use the converter to make your own low level inputs for the amp. A lot of folks will tell you that the quality isn't great doing it this way. I would say it works fairly well, probably not ideal, but if you aren't willing to drop a load of cash on a new head unit then it's a decent alternative. One thing I miss is the flexibility of an aftermarket head unit to equalize/tune the signal. Luckily I have a gain remote on the amp that helps that out, but I'm sure a better head unit would really make it easier to dial in.
One more thing: the shaker has a funky remote signal. Most aftermarket amps need a 12V signal to turn on. The shaker's remote signal is only 5V. A lot of folks have just wired their amp's remote line to a switched power source (independent of the head unit), so that the amp will be on when your "accessories" are on. I chose to use the head unit's 5V remote signal and convert it to a usable 12V one via a relay. I wanted the amp to only ever be on when the radio was on (and actually put a switch in as well so I can turn off the amp even if the radio is on).
With the shaker 500 (actually any of the stock stereos I believe), you're going to need a line-out converter or something more expensive/sophisticated as there are no pre-amp outs coming out of the stereo. You must tap into the rear speaker wires and then use the converter to make your own low level inputs for the amp. A lot of folks will tell you that the quality isn't great doing it this way. I would say it works fairly well, probably not ideal, but if you aren't willing to drop a load of cash on a new head unit then it's a decent alternative. One thing I miss is the flexibility of an aftermarket head unit to equalize/tune the signal. Luckily I have a gain remote on the amp that helps that out, but I'm sure a better head unit would really make it easier to dial in.
One more thing: the shaker has a funky remote signal. Most aftermarket amps need a 12V signal to turn on. The shaker's remote signal is only 5V. A lot of folks have just wired their amp's remote line to a switched power source (independent of the head unit), so that the amp will be on when your "accessories" are on. I chose to use the head unit's 5V remote signal and convert it to a usable 12V one via a relay. I wanted the amp to only ever be on when the radio was on (and actually put a switch in as well so I can turn off the amp even if the radio is on).
#10
What did you do with your Stereo?
Deleted the whole sound system, including antennae, but did acquire a nice big hole (sig pic)...sort of gives it that custom look...lol
Deleted the whole sound system, including antennae, but did acquire a nice big hole (sig pic)...sort of gives it that custom look...lol
Last edited by forensicsteve; 11-07-2010 at 07:35 AM.