the mustang and fiesta are significantly different electrically, and again I work on this stuff, don't try and tell me that it isn't complicated.

 

+1
Bit of a PITA to get everything wired up right. I do think this would be worth it to some though.

Itīll be great for just the driver, but even done perfectly like the one for the other guy where the thread is linked, youīd still get out, walk away, and lock the g/f in the car; and a few other annoyance scenarios that might crop up from time to time.

 

Now, the fact that the PATS authentication comes from the PCM, now that is the sticky point of all of this.
Anyone know which frequency RFID the key heads use (would be funny if it were 126KHz), and the comm protocol between the receiver and PCM?

 

I dont understand the draw for these types of things. For the effort, time and money you would spend to make this happen, you could start your car with a key 10,000 times.

I think remote start is a waste of money, but at least you could justify that it serves a purpose for heating/cooling before you get in.

 

I understand it in this case. I just donīt share it. Just another gadget to save a few steps. Same for automating your house in the same manner.

I actually pulled apart my cluster earlier, took readings for the LEDs and all, then put it back together and said Ļoh, hell nawĻ. But if I change my mind later I know where and what to replace them with.
It hit me right after I had it apart, indicators and all. After I had gone through all the trouble to replace the SMD LEDīs on that, doable, but a PITA; Iīd then be forced to do all of the others as well, because I know I wouldnīt be able to leave it alone. Just not worth the hassle to avoid the vomit green yet.

I took a bunch of pics for it, I think there are some that would be interested in doing this, as the LED replacements for the others seem to have more than a few that have done it. For those like myself that donīt have the mycolor cluster.

 

That's pretty much it in a nutshell, having your car "recognize" you based on something you carry versus something you stick in it.

It looks like most aftermarket systems get around the PATS by attaching the RFID tag (salvaged from one of the keys) inside the steering column next to the RFID transceiver and then control the run and start voltages with a PLC and use Different RFID transponders and tags that have a greater range.
Doesn't sound that difficult, could even replace the start button with a fingerprint reader if desired using this method.

 

I know nothing about the technical aspects. My daily driver has a push button start. You have to turn a key first, then you hear a pumping noise for 1-2 seconds and then push button once. One of the many reasons I didn't buy a vette was that its push button start was too automated with no key to turn.

 

I know the cure to cancer, I just don't want to let on. You know, i looked at a dead dude with cancer once, and I had it all figured out.

Changing leds is all fine and dandy, but that shows little of your understanding of automotive electronics. Features in your house and a car are so vastly different I shouldn't even have to explain it to you. A car is mobile (hope you knew that part at least) and is subject to a vastly wider range of RF fields that it needs to be immune to and function properly. It also runs on a DC power source, which has a high susceptibility to external noises coupling onto the line. A house you are dealing with an AC system which has exponentially less likelihood for noise coupling on the line to cause any type of malfunction.

By all means, if you know something I don't, share it and maybe we can come up with something. Personally the only way you are going to do it is by bypassing all your security or becoming susceptible to a lot of random effects with an off the shelf system.

 

It was nothing other than a simple comparison, and a recent pain in the *** comparison, to do. That was all. Not explaining feasibility differences. Iīm sorry if you couldnīt actually comprehend that basic precept.

The off the shelf system mentioned from the other link, that another implemented previously, would not require disabling the security system. It is however expensive, and time consuming for the reasons mentioned, and would in all likely-hood have quirky functioning in some instances from not only RF interference, but conditions it isnīt designed to deal with. I was essentially agreeing in principle to what you were saying earlier in my previous post if you'd actually care to read.

As big a PITA as it might be to get working the way you would want, it would still probably be worth it to a few here was the point.

Just wow, seriously. I have a bit of experience dealing with automotive DC electrical applications, far more than I care to in eliminating RF, and general noise issues from those applications.

I wouldn't wish the problems in just feasibility for putting a computer in your car on an enemy due to the laundry list of issues that are necessary to deal with, but that doesn't mean it isn't worth it to some. For me it was something I had to have, PITA that everything involved in it was. 3/4 of it could have simply been done with a higher end head-unit, or just dragging along a laptop for that matter, with an inverter instead of a DC-DC regulated PSU that generates its own RFI to eliminate.

By all means though, continue with your douche-tacular replies.

 

Yea, he just dont get it, does he.
The comm protocols over the HS CAN BUSS are different.
Focus dont talk stang and stangs dont talk fiesta and
fiesta dont talk fosuc.
Making a vehicle that can be pressed into police service
with the high power RF transmitters (communication
radios and WIFI for their computer links) is a tough bill
to fill...