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Popping noise in left quarter?

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Old 08-04-2011, 09:45 AM
  #11  
FordService
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Originally Posted by HT
And as far as the Ford thing...I appreciate you trying to help...but it doesn't really work. Most people on this site who post here are looking to avoid the dealership, otherwise we'd just go and not ask people here.

I to have had traditionally bad experiences at the dealership. Just don't feel confident that they know any more about what they are doing than I know, and if I don't know, I can learn on here.

Not bashing...but coming to a tech forum and telling us to go to the dealership isn't very helpful.
Just trying to help where I can. Not everyone has the ability to accurately diagnose their issues. As I stated before, I'm not a technician, but if posters are unable to resolve their concerns, I can direct them to the dealer, who is best able to help. I am sorry to hear that your dealership experiences have been less than pleasant. I encourage you to have negative situations documented, as that helps us identify areas of improvement.

~Natasha
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:58 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by HT
I didn't notice I got any replies on this...wow.

For the diode, I just stripped down the wires and wrapped them around the tubes sticking out of the actual diode cylinder...not very technical, but if you know what I'm talking about it'll make sense.

I'll keep checking with the radio, but I feel like I did everything like I was told...idk what could be causing the pop if the diode is in right.
Explain the diode thing in detail.
I have no clue what you are refering to.
You installed the diode where and why?
Just trying to be helpful but need more
detailed info to help.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:07 AM
  #13  
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157db, I believe he's referring to the PAC FRD1 unit diode "fix" used to stop feedback causing the PAC unit to drop-out in many instances and the end-user just seeing their head-unit reboot or otherwise cut-out. It's only on the turn-on line for the PAC unit turning on the factory "faker" 500/1000 amps (detailed thread on the issue here).

Originally Posted by HT
What do you mean by pull the fuses? I installed my own aftermarket Pioneer with the PAC harness, but I put in the little diode deal...maybe I did it wrong? It's only restarted one time while I was driving...and I haven't figured out why that happened, but it hasn't done it again.
It's possible you did it wrong, but the diode should be acting as an electric dam of sorts, for that particular diode I think the result should you have wired it backwards would have been one single pop heard from that center console section, as the diode should have given out resulting in an open circuit(no power to factory amps). But you can check to be sure. Stripe(cathode) should be on the side going towards the factory amps and away from the PAC unit.

157's suggestion holds, either
A. pull the SJB's delayed accessory fuse (labeled F6 on the passenger-side kick panel) or
B. The BEC's constant power fuse for that in the engine compartment (labeled F56)**
Then run a few times and see if it's still there, then you can narrow it down further from there, such as pulling just the radio harness adapter(so the PAC unit doesn't get power), etc..

I can't recall off-hand what else is tied to the BEC F56, but I think these are still essentially tied to the same things, and nothing such as the cluster, etc are tied to that particular fuse.

Keep in mind either fuse will kill your window control if I remember correctly(as well as some other minor things such as the interior lights), including it's auto roll-down/up upon exiting/entering, so be careful.

Details.

**That after-market unit may try to get constant power, as in the juice needed used not only to keep the clock going when the car is off, but for the unit's internal amps to power the normal speakers from the accessory line when running if you pull it, so if you pull that with your set-up, pull that SJB F6 fuse as well or leave the radio OFF.

Last edited by wayne613; 08-04-2011 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:07 PM
  #14  
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rEPLACE THE 'DIODE' WITH A LM7805 TO-220 VOLTAGE REGULATOR.
fricken caps lock
Available at the local RadioSnack Store...
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:52 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 157dB
rEPLACE THE 'DIODE' WITH A LM7805 TO-220 VOLTAGE REGULATOR.
fricken caps lock
Available at the local RadioSnack Store...
Assuming it's traced to this.. Popping from one single quarter panel area though...doubt it. Unless he's using a diode for each turn-on. Then yeah, I'd just ditch the PAC's 5v turn on, and use the 12v ACC line directly with a regulator to get the 5v turn-on.

That's a fix to keep using the PAC unit's 5v output. Just tends to die on a few with pioneer units when the sound is cranked. They(PAC) have a tech bulletin on it as well.

Last edited by wayne613; 08-05-2011 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:00 PM
  #16  
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when do you hear the popping? any random moment while driving, only when you start going, or turning?

not sure if your issue is anything like mine was... but when i first got my 06 gt back in march, i noticed almost everytime id first start the car and began to drive, id hear a loud banging rattle/popping sound right from behind me to my bottom left. it sounded like it could have been coming from the rear left side fender or something, i had no idea. i only heard it once, and id only hear it again whenever id be getting in the car again to go somewhere. finally figured out what it was... the damn seatbelt buckle banging against the side of the car >_< i noticed i have a habit of not immediately putting my seatbelt on, so naturally when id put it on, the sound went away! im sure this never happened to me in my 2008 v6 because it had that seatbelt loop extender thingy... i dont know what its called.. but i was pretty embarrassed with myself when i pinpointed it to that

Last edited by jAAAmes; 08-05-2011 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 05:02 PM
  #17  
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Had a similar noise before, turned out to be the trunk lid
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:25 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 2cokeman
Had a similar noise before, turned out to be the trunk lid
Originally Posted by 157dB
The bump stops
in the trunk lid hinges have been a known
source for noises.
Yeppers, its been the trunk lid a few times before.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:44 AM
  #19  
HT
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I would be surprised if it's the trunk lid, just based on when the noise occurs. A lot of times there is no jostling or bump involved.
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:19 PM
  #20  
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Wow - I give credit to a Ford rep being on this site. Camaro5 has had one for 3 years.

Two thumbs up FOMOCO!

Last edited by awakeinAZ; 08-06-2011 at 06:21 PM.
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