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The rust on our axles , and other places..

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Old 08-06-2011, 09:15 PM
  #11  
Buckshot Barry
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Originally Posted by pdonket
The rusting on the underside portions (of thick metal) exist there because the type of stainless they used is made so that the outside will rust but won't continue to deteriorate the metal's integrity deeper than the surface. It's not that the parts are risking failure, but rather in order to make high performance and relatively low cost cars, they aren't going to afford higher end stainless that would likely cost quite a bit more.
I'll buy that on the exhaust system, but there's rust on underside components that I don't think are stainless steel. I think it's corrosion on unprotected parts.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:55 PM
  #12  
JIM5.0
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I have rust not only the exhaust parts but also the driveshaft, the panhard bars, the axle and diff housing, and more. I too dislike the rust, even though they are functional as far as protecting against further corrosion.

Oh well, I guess I should have treated the underside for rust as soon as I bought my car.
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Old 08-07-2011, 06:10 AM
  #13  
calimstng66
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Ive always been lucky with rust but i hear ya it is a pain and drives me nuts
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Old 08-07-2011, 06:53 AM
  #14  
pascal
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Originally Posted by JIM5.0

Oh well, I guess I should have treated the underside for rust as soon as I bought my car.
LOL, was already rusted when you bought the car...


@Eddy, POR 15 is the schit to use underneath.
http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-black...aint-pint.html
You can brush that stuff right over the rust and you're done.
It saturates the rust and create a protective film in the process.
It's the best product period.

Two things though:
-Don't get any on your skin, it won't come off after it sets.
-The shelf life of this product isn't that long if you trap a lot of air in the can after use.
A crest will form on top and keep going until it's all hard.
Also, keep the rim groove of the can really clean after use because your lid will be a biatch to open the next time.
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Old 08-07-2011, 06:56 AM
  #15  
2007bluestang
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Pascal I feel like you know everything Haha
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Old 08-07-2011, 07:02 AM
  #16  
pascal
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Originally Posted by 2007bluestang
Pascal I feel like you know everything Haha
I don't, but it's my area of expertise since I make a living working on cars and motorcycles for 30+ years now...
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:21 AM
  #17  
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POR 15. You can get the starter kit, It will go along way. I did not paint the drive shaft.
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:26 AM
  #18  
eddypython
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Damn, that looks good. Thanks. I'm planning on an overhaul in the next weeks and looks like I've got my work cut out. I wonder, should I get that rust remover and the POR 15 and use them ? or is that overkill ? lol
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:13 AM
  #19  
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Back in 2007, Ford still put a good layer of paint on the pumpkin, but left the axle tubes bare metal to rust ... so all I had to do was paint the axle tubes and suspension brackets. For 2010 they further cut costs (and customer satisfaction) by leaving the pumpkin unpainted ... quite a shame.





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Old 08-07-2011, 07:35 PM
  #20  
gothamems
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http://boeshield.com/

This is what I use on the undercarriage of my 2008 Mustang GT and 2011 Tundra. This stuff really works great. I used one can on the Stang and one and a quarter cans on the Tundra, both applications were liberal.

Here is where I purchased it:
http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshiel...osol-P3C0.aspx
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