madmann26

Alright,

I replaced my alternator and it got rid of my p03xx codes.

Looks like bad luck continues,

Now I am getting a p0022 code and after a lot of reading, measuring the 'tangs' on the cam gear/phaser, it looks like I am replacing the vct solenoid.

Any other thoughts?

MADSCOTSMAN

I just went to the local auto parts store and bought a higher end alternator that had a lifetime replacemnent warranty and paid around $240 (I believe?!?) for it. There were some cheaper, refurbished ones, but they didn't have the lifetime warranty (Oddly enough the one I got was the last one in stock and the low cost of it comapred to ones at the other auto parts store caused them to mark it up $100 for any future shoppers). Did that with a new battery and the codes went away. Until this fix (before I got any codes or the idiot light), my car would miss only on the way to work after a cold night when I would get up to about 65 on the higway and keep it at that speed. I was pulling my hair out (what little hair I have) trying to explain it to the dealership and figure out what was causing it because it wouldn't happen if the temp had not dropped and had no idea the alternator would cause the car to miss (felt like the car was jerking or lunging forward by itself even with my foot off the pedal when cruising at 65)

ym42

Hey can you describe all the symptoms better? Here or in the other misfire thread that I started. I'm intrigued about this...

madmann26

Sure,

Outside of the codes,

1. After a 1st gear, 3/4 throttle pull and letting off accelerator, the car will start running real crappy. Whole engine shakes, sounds/feels like it has cams in it.

2. While cruising in 3, 4 or 5th gear, (maintaining speed, not bouncing the throttle), the car is jerking, bucking, etc

3. While cruising in 5th on the highway at any given speed/rpm, when the throttle is depressed, the car hesitates.

1990lxhatch

It's not the alternators ability to provide DC current that causes these codes, so naturally a part store load test on the alt isn't going to identify the problem. If a diode in the rectifier opens up, some of the current generated won't be converted to DC and thus you have a chunk of AC current that has nowhere to go. Your cam sensors are basically a magnet with a coil of wire wrapped around it. The magnetic field is fluxed by the pickup on the front of the cam sprockets and A/C current is inducted into the coil of wire. So.... if all this AC current is flying around the engine compartment trying to find ground it will do so through the cam sensor circuits. The PCM sees this noisy signal and by default assumes there is a circuit malfunction for the cam sensors. This is generally referred to as Radio Frequency Interference, or RFI. RFI commonly comes from alternators, defective CB radio transmitters, ignition coils (or any secondary ignition component), hell I've even seen starter motors cause this.

The P0022 is bank two over retarded IIRC, so you may have a VCT solenoid issue or an issue with oil delivery to the phaser itself. Tough call on the 0022 but cam sensor codes with driveability symptoms are often the result of RFI.

I wouldn't really call the OEM alternators junk....when you make 30 billion of something even a 1% failure rate equals a ton of individually bad units....furthermore the best ones you'll find at a part store are generally remans or new ones made with cheap china components. Call Tousely Ford, talk to Steve and he'll hook you up with the best price on an OEM. It will likely be cheaper and better built than any Pep Boys variety.

ym42

madmann26 - those symptoms are familiar to me. Hesitation, surging and running rough when cold after giving it gas...

madmann26

Update:

I replaced the drivers side vct solenoid and drive it around a little today. I have not had any issues with it as of yet.

I am going to drive it a few more days and I will report back any news (good or bad).

madmann26

Update:

I drove in to work today and there were 0 issues.

aa4shaw

To All on this message board who have a 2005-2008 Mustang. I am currently sitting at the dealer having my alternator replaced after receiving the dreaded P0340 P0344 error codes. But while sitting here I also found that my lower engine cover was missing! Apparently the Dealer and other oil change places have a bad habit of removing this cover in order to get to the oil filter, and they either inadvertently forget to put it back or they intentionally forget to put it back because its a pain in the butt. That being said, I implore all of you to make sure you have your lower splash shield in place, otherwise you will continue to have your alternator fail due to dirt and water getting in it. If your engine compartment is showing signs of splash back or mud, you have probably had the lower engine cover removed by a lazy mechanic. See link below http://www.partsgeek.com/mparts/skid_plate/ford.html

Syracuse315

My GF's Mazda6 has the same cover on the bottom. Def thought about leaving it off (makes changing the oil easier) but it keeps the bottom engine bay so nice and clean I put it back on.