Q about Fuel filters...
12-04-2011, 11:43 AM
#21
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: MD
Posts: 445
For fuel filter replacement:
TAKE THE FUEL CAP OFF of the full filler. This is prevent any pressure build up in the lines. It is IMPOSSIBLE to get all of the fuel out of the lines.
Take the cover off and you'll see the filter, DS right under the door.
There are specialty tools to disconnect the lines from the filter. THESE LINES/CLIPS ARE VERY EASILY BROKEN, especially if the vehicle is older. The part is a Fuel/AC line disconnect tool. Harbor Freight for the cheap ones, like $10 for the assortment. You really only NEED one. It's either the smallest, or one size up...can't remember. I preffer the aluminum ones...they are less prone to breaking. Use the tool to get the lines off.
Then unbolt the filter, and replace in reverse order.
There WILL be some fuel spillage.
(Please do NOT get it in your mouth! Be there, done that. I can say Diesel tastes better IMHO!)
To prime the system, turn key to ON, do not start.
CHECK FOR LEAKS.
Do the 'key to ON' thing a few times....I prefer 5, and THEN start the car. Again...CHECK FOR LEAKS!
Go for a quick drive...maybe 5 mins...and....(you guessed it) CHECK FOR LEAKS.
These clips WILL leak if not inserted correctly.
TAKE THE FUEL CAP OFF of the full filler. This is prevent any pressure build up in the lines. It is IMPOSSIBLE to get all of the fuel out of the lines.
Take the cover off and you'll see the filter, DS right under the door.
There are specialty tools to disconnect the lines from the filter. THESE LINES/CLIPS ARE VERY EASILY BROKEN, especially if the vehicle is older. The part is a Fuel/AC line disconnect tool. Harbor Freight for the cheap ones, like $10 for the assortment. You really only NEED one. It's either the smallest, or one size up...can't remember. I preffer the aluminum ones...they are less prone to breaking. Use the tool to get the lines off.
Then unbolt the filter, and replace in reverse order.
There WILL be some fuel spillage.
(Please do NOT get it in your mouth! Be there, done that. I can say Diesel tastes better IMHO!)
To prime the system, turn key to ON, do not start.
CHECK FOR LEAKS.
Do the 'key to ON' thing a few times....I prefer 5, and THEN start the car. Again...CHECK FOR LEAKS!
Go for a quick drive...maybe 5 mins...and....(you guessed it) CHECK FOR LEAKS.
These clips WILL leak if not inserted correctly.
12-04-2011, 02:38 PM
#23
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,717
When I changed mine out, all I did was remove the negative battery terminal and then scrunch under the car and open the plastic covering (only opens partially) and pop out the filter. The green tabs are all I had to push on to get the filter out of the tubing.
I got a little fuel over my hands and on the drip pan I had below, but it was literally like half a glass worth so nothing serious like Niagara falls gushing out of the car lol. Make sure you put the filter in facing the correct direction, I know it's a common sense step, but I triple checked before starting the car just to make sure I didn't do something stupid haha.
I got a little fuel over my hands and on the drip pan I had below, but it was literally like half a glass worth so nothing serious like Niagara falls gushing out of the car lol. Make sure you put the filter in facing the correct direction, I know it's a common sense step, but I triple checked before starting the car just to make sure I didn't do something stupid haha.
12-04-2011, 08:53 PM
#25
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,846
For fuel filter replacement:
TAKE THE FUEL CAP OFF of the full filler. This is prevent any pressure build up in the lines. It is IMPOSSIBLE to get all of the fuel out of the lines.
Take the cover off and you'll see the filter, DS right under the door.
There are specialty tools to disconnect the lines from the filter. THESE LINES/CLIPS ARE VERY EASILY BROKEN, especially if the vehicle is older. The part is a Fuel/AC line disconnect tool. Harbor Freight for the cheap ones, like $10 for the assortment. You really only NEED one. It's either the smallest, or one size up...can't remember. I preffer the aluminum ones...they are less prone to breaking. Use the tool to get the lines off.
Then unbolt the filter, and replace in reverse order.
There WILL be some fuel spillage.
(Please do NOT get it in your mouth! Be there, done that. I can say Diesel tastes better IMHO!)
To prime the system, turn key to ON, do not start.
CHECK FOR LEAKS.
Do the 'key to ON' thing a few times....I prefer 5, and THEN start the car. Again...CHECK FOR LEAKS!
Go for a quick drive...maybe 5 mins...and....(you guessed it) CHECK FOR LEAKS.
These clips WILL leak if not inserted correctly.
TAKE THE FUEL CAP OFF of the full filler. This is prevent any pressure build up in the lines. It is IMPOSSIBLE to get all of the fuel out of the lines.
Take the cover off and you'll see the filter, DS right under the door.
There are specialty tools to disconnect the lines from the filter. THESE LINES/CLIPS ARE VERY EASILY BROKEN, especially if the vehicle is older. The part is a Fuel/AC line disconnect tool. Harbor Freight for the cheap ones, like $10 for the assortment. You really only NEED one. It's either the smallest, or one size up...can't remember. I preffer the aluminum ones...they are less prone to breaking. Use the tool to get the lines off.
Then unbolt the filter, and replace in reverse order.
There WILL be some fuel spillage.
(Please do NOT get it in your mouth! Be there, done that. I can say Diesel tastes better IMHO!)
To prime the system, turn key to ON, do not start.
CHECK FOR LEAKS.
Do the 'key to ON' thing a few times....I prefer 5, and THEN start the car. Again...CHECK FOR LEAKS!
Go for a quick drive...maybe 5 mins...and....(you guessed it) CHECK FOR LEAKS.
These clips WILL leak if not inserted correctly.
Also when you get under there and undo the shield cover that sort of hides the filter, if there's a screw holding the filter assembly in place, it might help to unbolt it first and then twist the filter assembly out a little bit so that it's easier to take the fuel filter out when you disconnect the lines.
12-04-2011, 09:20 PM
#27
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,717
It's a guide off of american muscle, it says 05-10 but I doubt the 11 model could have changed that much. If you can remove the cover/cowl and see those green buttons, you know you have the same system. And install will be a snap.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/fuel-f...0-install.html
On the 2nd to last pic, you can kind of see the green buttons on the bottom. Very easy to disconnect, just make sure to get the "click" sound when reinstalling the new filter into those hose clips.
12-04-2011, 09:48 PM
#28
Thanks so much for the link!
http://www.americanmuscle.com/fuel-f...0-install.html
I do not know if my vehicle will be the same, I assume it will be the exact same procedure, since much of the general S197 chassis carried forth into the 11+ cars too.
I am going to crawl under my car to have a peek tomorrow.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/fuel-f...0-install.html
I do not know if my vehicle will be the same, I assume it will be the exact same procedure, since much of the general S197 chassis carried forth into the 11+ cars too.
I am going to crawl under my car to have a peek tomorrow.
12-04-2011, 10:43 PM
#29
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location:
Posts: 158
Just Thought I would shed some light on the brand subject since the changing procedure has pretty much been covered. The Brand as far time intervals or how much time before they are clogged are very simular among most name brands. The effectiveness of the filter is what makes the difference. With todays Petrol(gas) being so cotaminated and diltued there is reason to belive there is more trash getting into the tank. On subject filter media is rated in microns.A micron is 0.000039 of an inch. There is about 350-400 on the period at the end of this sentence. I always reccoment Wix filters on everything they are generally rated to the smallest tolerances during manufacturing. For instance the filters on out mustang the Wix (33243) is rated to a nomial filtration of 14 microns while motorcraft factory filter are rated to 20 along with most others with some bargan brands during some quick googling showed as much as 35 literally not a big difference but with Wix being less expensive than the others and redily available why not! Not to continue on my soap box but the materials play a big part silicone vs. fiber and glue types that hold the elements together.. And most are paper fiber media vs steel mesh as paper can be made to filter smaller particles while steel is more durable.
12-04-2011, 11:29 PM
#30
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,717
^+1, I didn't know better when I replaced mine so I used whatever autozone had on hand (the OEM motorcraft filters) but I regret not getting the wix filters since my "worry wort" self will probably replace the filter again very soon lol.