Notices
2005-2014 Mustangs Discussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:
Old 10-08-2015, 04:17 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: Powertrain Guides
Print Wikipost

Battery or alternator?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-16-2012, 03:28 PM
  #1  
Jas5
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Jas5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: OK
Posts: 667
Default Battery or alternator?

What's your vote? Hoping maybe someone had these same symptoms. I do know that battery and alternator work together so it's very difficult to know which one it is without replacing things. Skip to last paragraph for cliffs.



Last Thursday, my car wouldn't start in the morning. (I did not leave lights on, door ajar, etc. My driver's window would move down when opening door, but not back up, so it was left slightly open over the night.) It turned over a few times, but then the starter would just click. Jump started, turned over quickly and started right up.

Drove it around for a couple of days. Then Saturday morning it won't start.. starter just clicks really fast. Jump started, immediately fired up. Drive it to my house and try to start a few hours later, won't start.
I then take the battery out to get tested at o'reillys, tested GOOD after 15-20 minutes. I put it back in my car, jump start. Go to work, then 5 hours later, it starts right up. I go to Autozone and they hook up to my battery and have me start it... guy said starter and battery are good, but the alternator was at 13.8 volts when starting. Recommended is 14-14.2 but 13.8 still is "OK" i believe.

Then on Sunday it started in the morning just fine. Go to gym. Starts fine when leaving gym.
Then this morning, Monday, I had to be jump started. I get to work and try to lock my doors using my keypad but they won't lock, so it's probably dead again. I'm going to get a new battery after work and see if that fixes it.


CLIFFS:
SO it looks as though the battery is weak and cannot hold its charge through the long night. There was only one time where I jump started it, drove it, and then it wouldnt start a few hours later. All other instances I had to jump it in the morning only.
If the car wont start in the morning with a new battery, i'll take the alternator out to get bench tested.

Last edited by Jas5; 07-16-2012 at 03:32 PM.
Jas5 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 03:35 PM
  #2  
2k232
2nd Gear Member
 
2k232's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Carolina- Rock Hill
Posts: 344
Default

Could take the batt & alt to have it tested at autozone.
2k232 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 03:39 PM
  #3  
onederful100
6th Gear Member
 
onederful100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 6,130
Default

i vote alt.
my dad has same problem, but haven't fixed yet. tried new battery, same problem, next we will try alt.
or something is draining your battery.
been searching the web, and found some have faulty alternators.
but we will have to trouble shoot and go step by step to find what exactly the problem is.
onederful100 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 03:43 PM
  #4  
Jas5
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Jas5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: OK
Posts: 667
Default

Originally Posted by onederful100
i vote alt.
my dad has same problem, but haven't fixed yet. tried new battery, same problem, next we will try alt.
or something is draining your battery.
been searching the web, and found some have faulty alternators.
but we will have to trouble shoot and go step by step to find what exactly the problem is.
Thanks..
I do believe that it still has the original 5 year old battery so it couldn't hurt to get a new one anyways. I have a warranty, alternator is covered, so shouldn't be a big deal to get fixed at Ford
Jas5 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 04:06 PM
  #5  
BleedinBlue
5th Gear Member
 
BleedinBlue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Eureka, Mo
Posts: 4,355
Default

Originally Posted by 2k232
Could take the batt & alt to have it tested at autozone.
His thread said he only did that twice, i guess a third time may do the trick.

I vote alternator.
BleedinBlue is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 04:10 PM
  #6  
04AZUREBLUEMACH1
2nd Gear Member
 
04AZUREBLUEMACH1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 232
Default

Trickle charge the battery for as long as you can. I would recommend a minimum of 24 hours, but if you can go longer, do it. You can get Advance Auto or somewhere similar to do it for you if you don't have the equipment.

I had a similar issue and although a jump-start would seemingly cure it temporarily, it wasn't enough to really charge the battery thoroughly.
04AZUREBLUEMACH1 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 04:17 PM
  #7  
Jas5
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Jas5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: OK
Posts: 667
Default

Originally Posted by 04AZUREBLUEMACH1
Trickle charge the battery for as long as you can. I would recommend a minimum of 24 hours, but if you can go longer, do it. You can get Advance Auto or somewhere similar to do it for you if you don't have the equipment.

I had a similar issue and although a jump-start would seemingly cure it temporarily, it wasn't enough to really charge the battery thoroughly.
What good would trickle charging do? I mean if either the battery or alternator are bad, it will end up just dying again.
Did you end up replacing your battery, and problem went away? It feels like my alternator charges the battery through the day (after morning jump start) since it is able to restart many times, but then the battery just cannot hold charge through the night. My radar detector broke and I remove my head unit cover so couldn't imagine anything is sucking juice.

I'm tempted to just take my alternator off and get it bench tested, cause I still may have a "good" battery. Alternator is very accessible, i've done dozens of alternator changes

One thing I didn't mention is my idle will dip low when driving since this problem started, down to 500 rpm. I'll be in gear, driving, then when I go to neutral it dips way down to 500, then back to 750 after 5-10 seconds

Last edited by Jas5; 07-16-2012 at 04:20 PM.
Jas5 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 04:28 PM
  #8  
DRAGUL
5th Gear Member
 
DRAGUL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 2,549
Default

Replace the battery it is the cheaper of the two. The battery is possibly original you stated, so therefore it is already time to replace it. If it was not weak it is now from all the running down and recharging. And a low charge battery can kill a alternator. A alternator is meant to maintain a charge, not recharge from dead.
DRAGUL is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 04:42 PM
  #9  
wcgman
5th Gear Member
 
wcgman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,652
Default

Used to see this all the time when I was a Pep Boys back in the day. Heat kills batteries and if Oklahoma has been an oven like a lot of other places, chances are it's the battery. This is where I agree with Dragul as the stock batteries were a mixed bag on how good they were to begin with. My 06 always had problems so I'd recommend throwing an Optima red top in there and be done with it. If it were the alternator, you'd be dying more on the road I'd think...
wcgman is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 05:15 PM
  #10  
bismark64
1st Gear Member
 
bismark64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 66
Default

Get a new battery.
bismark64 is offline  


Quick Reply: Battery or alternator?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:48 PM.