How hight can the coyote safely rev without damage?
#1
How hight can the coyote safely rev without damage?
With comp cam stage 3 n/a cams with a power range of 1900-7200 and a BOSS intake, how high can you make power with a stock coyote motor, without causing damage. The BOSS intake says it has a power increase potential of up to 8000 rpms, but with cams, full exhaust, and a stage 3 MMR head port, how high could you make power without hurting the engine? Would you need more valve work to rev to 7500 or 8000, or could the stock motor do it? Sorry if these are stupid questions, I'm just thinking about getting a new 5.0 and want to see how much power I can make n/a so I can use it on track days, and build it into a track car.
No it would not better benefit me to just buy a BOSS like some have suggested, because I would end up stripping the interior, redoing the suspension and everything, so it would just be 10 grand wasted that could have gone towards mods.
If you think I'm trying to waste your time, then save your comment and don't waste mine...
THANKS!
No it would not better benefit me to just buy a BOSS like some have suggested, because I would end up stripping the interior, redoing the suspension and everything, so it would just be 10 grand wasted that could have gone towards mods.
If you think I'm trying to waste your time, then save your comment and don't waste mine...
THANKS!
#2
There is always going to be some guy with more money, faster than you...RPM is only part of the equation, more so with Honda's where they use the momentum to accelerate the vehicle. Decide what you want, and mod for that goal...infact, let me save you the time. Bolt on a blower and have fun...
#3
There is always going to be some guy with more money, faster than you...RPM is only part of the equation, more so with Honda's where they use the momentum to accelerate the vehicle. Decide what you want, and mod for that goal...infact, let me save you the time. Bolt on a blower and have fun...
To the op, we are probably on the same page as what we'd want out of an engine. Larger displacement, high compression, high revving, with that being said I'm not sure about the comp cams but I thought the stock motor was already capable of 7500rpm?
Sadly because of forced induction being so widely popular there isn't much thought/effort put into the N/A side of these cars aside from your typical bolt ons.
#4
In addition to the mechanical strength of the components, there's also fatigue and wear to consider. If the motor is going to be something you trailer to the 1/4 mile track, run twice, then trailer home, that's a lot different than something that will see road course abuse.
#5
I think he's trying to avoid forced induction, hence all the N/A references. Some people, myself included, just like the all motor/classic way of power.
To the op, we are probably on the same page as what we'd want out of an engine. Larger displacement, high compression, high revving, with that being said I'm not sure about the comp cams but I thought the stock motor was already capable of 7500rpm?
Sadly because of forced induction being so widely popular there isn't much thought/effort put into the N/A side of these cars aside from your typical bolt ons.
To the op, we are probably on the same page as what we'd want out of an engine. Larger displacement, high compression, high revving, with that being said I'm not sure about the comp cams but I thought the stock motor was already capable of 7500rpm?
Sadly because of forced induction being so widely popular there isn't much thought/effort put into the N/A side of these cars aside from your typical bolt ons.
#6
In addition to the mechanical strength of the components, there's also fatigue and wear to consider. If the motor is going to be something you trailer to the 1/4 mile track, run twice, then trailer home, that's a lot different than something that will see road course abuse.
#7
I think you're better off concentrating on managing heat, brakes, suspension, and tires. I realize that has little to do with your original question. Just offering my opinion on the priority of your race prep efforts.
My only other comment - it always sounds ok to say I'll run it until it breaks. That attitude of sh*t happens kind of helps us get over the inevitable issues that pop up. But breaking an engine is never convenient, or fun, or drama free. You might send something through your hood. You might dump something on the track and cause yourself or somebody else to wreck. To me, the benefits of revving an engine really high never seemed to outweigh the risks and complications.
My only other comment - it always sounds ok to say I'll run it until it breaks. That attitude of sh*t happens kind of helps us get over the inevitable issues that pop up. But breaking an engine is never convenient, or fun, or drama free. You might send something through your hood. You might dump something on the track and cause yourself or somebody else to wreck. To me, the benefits of revving an engine really high never seemed to outweigh the risks and complications.
#8
Specizripn - I'm curious how much racing or even HPDE experience you have and in what cars. How much track time do you have in a car with an American V8? The reason I ask is because typically what you want in these types of cars on a track is torque. Strong, low RPM torque is what gets you off the corners quickly. The American V8s are very different beasts than say a Ferrari flat-plane V8 that can rev over 8500. Stangs, Camaros, Challengers, Corvettes and the like rely on broad torque curves, low RPM and widely spaced tranny ratios. Ferrari's or Porsches on the other hand rely less on torque and more on RPM but have the close ratio, super-quick shifting trannys to make better use of the RPMs. In the case of a Stang is near impossible to keep it screaming in the upper RPM ranges on a road course simply because of the widely spaced gear ratios (depending on the track of course). The other issue with constantly running in the upper rev range is you will simply wear the engine out quicker. A typical track day has about 2hrs of track time. Doing this twice a month on ave means about 48 hours of time, at near racing conditions, per year. Thats like running the 24-hours of LeMans twice. As you may well know, the engines in a car like the Corvette C6R are rebuilt/replaced after a single race like this.
My advice, for what its worth, is focus on torque, not rpm and make your motor live a little longer. But, the guys you really need to talk with are the ones racing Stangs with Coyote engines. Chris Cobetto for example is the director of NASA Mid-Atlantic. He races and wins in a 5.0. Google him or contact him thru www.nasaracing.net
My advice, for what its worth, is focus on torque, not rpm and make your motor live a little longer. But, the guys you really need to talk with are the ones racing Stangs with Coyote engines. Chris Cobetto for example is the director of NASA Mid-Atlantic. He races and wins in a 5.0. Google him or contact him thru www.nasaracing.net
#9
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...pm-roof-2.html
Read this thread from another forum, brenspeed comments are in there.
Read this thread from another forum, brenspeed comments are in there.
#10
Specizripn, I am in the same boat as you. my car is in the shop now getting boss heads, cobra jet cams, oil pump gears and e85. I already had the kooks headers, orx, and boss inake with 85mm tb.
i'll let you know how it dyno's but your question is easy to answer. I've been pulling 7500rpm a lot all spring / summer / fall without any issues. even blipped to 7600 more than a few times.
with that intake 7700 is the ideal, and its also limited by TB size. but, the oil pump gears don't like more than 7500 ala stock boss. the gt con rods and bolts are good to 7400 per Ford w/o any issues. Pistons are solid at 7300 per Ford racing comments.
but to do 7500 a lot w/o risking that piston go e85, keeps it cool and that's a big failure mode. same wit detonaton, kills the piston at high rpm and high heat - e85 resists this.
but to ask the rods to go past 7500rpm on a regular basis is not good.. ford racing said 7300 rpm all day.
boss can handle 7900rpm all day even with stock oil gears, and that's mostly rods and pistons taking heat better. but stay off the rev limiter at that rpm oil pump bye bye. also the boss piston is heavier so it needs a more stout rod and higher hardness in sintering or metal matrix forming or what ever it is.
hope that helps!
i'll let you know how it dyno's but your question is easy to answer. I've been pulling 7500rpm a lot all spring / summer / fall without any issues. even blipped to 7600 more than a few times.
with that intake 7700 is the ideal, and its also limited by TB size. but, the oil pump gears don't like more than 7500 ala stock boss. the gt con rods and bolts are good to 7400 per Ford w/o any issues. Pistons are solid at 7300 per Ford racing comments.
but to do 7500 a lot w/o risking that piston go e85, keeps it cool and that's a big failure mode. same wit detonaton, kills the piston at high rpm and high heat - e85 resists this.
but to ask the rods to go past 7500rpm on a regular basis is not good.. ford racing said 7300 rpm all day.
boss can handle 7900rpm all day even with stock oil gears, and that's mostly rods and pistons taking heat better. but stay off the rev limiter at that rpm oil pump bye bye. also the boss piston is heavier so it needs a more stout rod and higher hardness in sintering or metal matrix forming or what ever it is.
hope that helps!
With comp cam stage 3 n/a cams with a power range of 1900-7200 and a BOSS intake, how high can you make power with a stock coyote motor, without causing damage. The BOSS intake says it has a power increase potential of up to 8000 rpms, but with cams, full exhaust, and a stage 3 MMR head port, how high could you make power without hurting the engine? Would you need more valve work to rev to 7500 or 8000, or could the stock motor do it? Sorry if these are stupid questions, I'm just thinking about getting a new 5.0 and want to see how much power I can make n/a so I can use it on track days, and build it into a track car.
No it would not better benefit me to just buy a BOSS like some have suggested, because I would end up stripping the interior, redoing the suspension and everything, so it would just be 10 grand wasted that could have gone towards mods.
If you think I'm trying to waste your time, then save your comment and don't waste mine...
THANKS!
No it would not better benefit me to just buy a BOSS like some have suggested, because I would end up stripping the interior, redoing the suspension and everything, so it would just be 10 grand wasted that could have gone towards mods.
If you think I'm trying to waste your time, then save your comment and don't waste mine...
THANKS!
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