clutch break in
08-30-2012, 12:39 PM
#21
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Originally Posted by 2008 Owner Manual page 5
Try not to drive continuously at the smae speed for the first 1,000 miles of vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in."
Originally Posted by 2008 Owner Manual page 5
Drive your new vehicle at least 1,000 miles before towing a trailer.
Sometimes you have to make the conclusion for yourself instead of expecting to have every little detail spelled out for you. Then again, that's probably why Owner Manuals are getting so thick these days, people not wanting to actually think.
Norm
08-30-2012, 12:56 PM
#22
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,486
“Just driving around town, taking it easy for about 500 miles is the best way to seat a clutch in. Not 500 miles on the freeway, or going out drag racing. We want the clutch to be heat cycled as many times possible without over heating it, and with minimal power applied. The clutch disc has high and low spots on the friction material, and you want to reduce the high spots and embed the friction material to the pressure plate and flywheel. You want to create a nice even surface on the disc.”
http://www.onedirt.com/tech-stories/...in-procedures/
http://www.onedirt.com/tech-stories/...in-procedures/
08-30-2012, 02:14 PM
#23
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 199
You won't find it specifically, but it is implied by the text contained in the Mustang Owner's Manual for 2008.
Last I checked, the clutch was considered a moving part, and I see no exclusion for it relative to break-in.
Loading the clutch heavily or slipping it excessively as starts with a trailer tend to cause is specifically discouraged. This implies that subjecting the clutch to the same treatment for any other reason is also discouraged, as the situation where unusual power is being transferred through the clutch while it is slipping slightly on the start doesn't care what the cause is.
Sometimes you have to make the conclusion for yourself instead of expecting to have every little detail spelled out for you. Then again, that's probably why Owner Manuals are getting so thick these days, people not wanting to actually think.
Norm
Last I checked, the clutch was considered a moving part, and I see no exclusion for it relative to break-in.
Loading the clutch heavily or slipping it excessively as starts with a trailer tend to cause is specifically discouraged. This implies that subjecting the clutch to the same treatment for any other reason is also discouraged, as the situation where unusual power is being transferred through the clutch while it is slipping slightly on the start doesn't care what the cause is.
Sometimes you have to make the conclusion for yourself instead of expecting to have every little detail spelled out for you. Then again, that's probably why Owner Manuals are getting so thick these days, people not wanting to actually think.
Norm
The moving parts? Even the wipers? lol.. There is still nothing from Ford that states you should break your clutch in.
I find it hard to believe all these years car companies selling brand new cars with brand new clutches and we don't see thousands of cars stuck on the side of the road due to owners not "breaking them in".
The truth is modern cars are built so well with such precision tolerances it's moot. Every person who bought a Mustang at the 2nd light on the way home they hammer it yet we don't see people on the side of the road stuck.
08-30-2012, 03:46 PM
#24
The Paranoid One
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,320
Ask any tech when they install a clutch for you and you will be told the same thing.
Go ahead and do some burnouts with a new clutch if you want to.
Treat it rough and first, and when you fry it don't come back crying about it.
I've seen it TIME AND TIME AGAIN.
You give BAD advice Fort...
Go ahead and do some burnouts with a new clutch if you want to.
Treat it rough and first, and when you fry it don't come back crying about it.
I've seen it TIME AND TIME AGAIN.
You give BAD advice Fort...
08-30-2012, 03:53 PM
#25
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
You won't find it specifically, but it is implied by the text contained in the Mustang Owner's Manual for 2008.
Last I checked, the clutch was considered a moving part, and I see no exclusion for it relative to break-in.
Loading the clutch heavily or slipping it excessively as starts with a trailer tend to cause is specifically discouraged. This implies that subjecting the clutch to the same treatment for any other reason is also discouraged, as the situation where unusual power is being transferred through the clutch while it is slipping slightly on the start doesn't care what the cause is.
Sometimes you have to make the conclusion for yourself instead of expecting to have every little detail spelled out for you. Then again, that's probably why Owner Manuals are getting so thick these days, people not wanting to actually think.
Norm
Last I checked, the clutch was considered a moving part, and I see no exclusion for it relative to break-in.
Loading the clutch heavily or slipping it excessively as starts with a trailer tend to cause is specifically discouraged. This implies that subjecting the clutch to the same treatment for any other reason is also discouraged, as the situation where unusual power is being transferred through the clutch while it is slipping slightly on the start doesn't care what the cause is.
Sometimes you have to make the conclusion for yourself instead of expecting to have every little detail spelled out for you. Then again, that's probably why Owner Manuals are getting so thick these days, people not wanting to actually think.
Norm
I do not think a clutch needs 500 miles to break in, but it needs some engage/disengage time at varying rpms.
08-30-2012, 04:12 PM
#26
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
The moving parts? Even the wipers? lol.. There is still nothing from Ford that states you should break your clutch in.
I find it hard to believe all these years car companies selling brand new cars with brand new clutches and we don't see thousands of cars stuck on the side of the road due to owners not "breaking them in".
The truth is modern cars are built so well with such precision tolerances it's moot. Every person who bought a Mustang at the 2nd light on the way home they hammer it yet we don't see people on the side of the road stuck.
I find it hard to believe all these years car companies selling brand new cars with brand new clutches and we don't see thousands of cars stuck on the side of the road due to owners not "breaking them in".
The truth is modern cars are built so well with such precision tolerances it's moot. Every person who bought a Mustang at the 2nd light on the way home they hammer it yet we don't see people on the side of the road stuck.
The average driver doesn't beat on his car or its clutch like some enthusiasts would choose to. Clutches do have a fair amount of margin to cover the average driver and his clumsiness, but there are limits.
Yes, cars are built better now than 40 years ago. That's really a statistical thing, not a guarantee that your individual VIN or any of its parts will withstand the abuse you're trying to claim is harmless.
Due to things like dimensional tolerances and slight differences in surface finish that cannot be avoided in production, the final fitting of adjacent parts is not complete when the car rolls off the final assembly line.
Have you ever replaced a clutch and done all of the work yourself? Seen and felt the difference between a worn clutch disc and an out-of-the-box new one? Had a flywheel resurfaced and noticed the difference in surface roughness? It's a different perspective when you're holding these things in your hand instead of only knowing that they're down there inside the bellhousing where you can't even see them.
Norm
08-30-2012, 11:54 PM
#27
The Paranoid One
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,320
Fort's B.S. posts are really starting to anger me lol.
Not just this thread, and not just this subject.
So much misinformation and things he posts as facts that are purely opinions.. and many SILLY opinions at that.
Not only that.. but advice that can end up costing people big bucks.
Not cool to do something like that at ALL.
Not just this thread, and not just this subject.
So much misinformation and things he posts as facts that are purely opinions.. and many SILLY opinions at that.
Not only that.. but advice that can end up costing people big bucks.
Not cool to do something like that at ALL.
08-31-2012, 03:11 AM
#28
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 289
08-31-2012, 09:40 AM
#29
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,652
Fort's B.S. posts are really starting to anger me lol.
Not just this thread, and not just this subject.
So much misinformation and things he posts as facts that are purely opinions.. and many SILLY opinions at that.
Not only that.. but advice that can end up costing people big bucks.
Not cool to do something like that at ALL.
Not just this thread, and not just this subject.
So much misinformation and things he posts as facts that are purely opinions.. and many SILLY opinions at that.
Not only that.. but advice that can end up costing people big bucks.
Not cool to do something like that at ALL.
08-31-2012, 11:15 AM
#30
The Paranoid One
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,320
He kinda reminds me of that one guy that was here a while that was always saying he was pissed because he had a sucky outdated 07-09GT and was trying to get his parents to buy him a new 5.0 and kept complaining about them not doing it.
Dammit I wish I could remember his name.
He sounded like a spoiled little brat and I could never figure out if he was for real or just trolling.
Dammit I wish I could remember his name.
He sounded like a spoiled little brat and I could never figure out if he was for real or just trolling.