Endgame: part 1
#1
Endgame: part 1
So, this is a build thread.
A little background... What I'm starting with is an FRPP/Whipple on the stock block, dyno'd at 502RWHP, but as we all know, it's never enough. Some of you may know I've been doing Mojave Mile, which is standing mile racing (wide open throttle from a stop for 1 mile, where your speed is trapped), and the car as configured topped out at 162.5, I could probably pulley down and overdrive, use meth injection to get it to about 650, but that would be the upper limit and probably wouldn't get me to where I want to be. So, it's time to upgrade. I talked over my goals with Greg at RET and he came up with a plan that is now underway.
First, the engine bay as it was when I dropped it off.
Safety first, the rules state that to exceed 170, you need roll bars... I went with RPM rollbars bolt-in chromoly cage and had them paint it the color of my stripes.
RPM does good work and provided a speedy turnaround on the cage.
A little background... What I'm starting with is an FRPP/Whipple on the stock block, dyno'd at 502RWHP, but as we all know, it's never enough. Some of you may know I've been doing Mojave Mile, which is standing mile racing (wide open throttle from a stop for 1 mile, where your speed is trapped), and the car as configured topped out at 162.5, I could probably pulley down and overdrive, use meth injection to get it to about 650, but that would be the upper limit and probably wouldn't get me to where I want to be. So, it's time to upgrade. I talked over my goals with Greg at RET and he came up with a plan that is now underway.
First, the engine bay as it was when I dropped it off.
Safety first, the rules state that to exceed 170, you need roll bars... I went with RPM rollbars bolt-in chromoly cage and had them paint it the color of my stripes.
RPM does good work and provided a speedy turnaround on the cage.
#3
Ooooh, nice. I'm guessing you'll have to play with the gear and final drive ratios too, no?
Also, covering a few holes in the front should help. I love my Stang, but it has the aerodynamics of a school bus
Also, covering a few holes in the front should help. I love my Stang, but it has the aerodynamics of a school bus
#4
I'm not really considering blocking the holes or doing any taping at this point, I had tried that at an earlier event and it gave me no advantage, I've gotten better results based on which direction the wind is blowing from throughout the day. Going for the brute force method.
I'll get to the specifics as we go along, but here's another picture, this one is a bit depressing, the shiny Whipple kit is off and the stock intake manifold is on, what you can't see here are the Steeda charge motion delete plates under the manifold. Greg likes the characteristics of the stock manifold over the boss manifold for high boost applications. I've heard of issues where the boss manifold flexes under high boost making it hard to tune to. Regardless, it's kind of cool in that it makes it a bit stealthy.
#6
Not quite as effective as I was hoping, but it does cut down on road noise. I think I should have doubled up on the tunnel and the rear wheel wells. I would probably get a bit more if I hit the roof and doors.
#9
For the cage, it started at about 2K, then the options of 6 point w/swing out bars, custom paint, road race cross brace, 5-point harness, harness attachment point kit... it was just over 3K delivered.
#10