Hello, guys. It's been a while, and I'd love for you to give me some advice.
#1
Hello, guys. It's been a while, and I'd love for you to give me some advice.
Okay, I'll try to keep it short and simple, and start from the beginning.
WHO'RE YOU?
I was on the forums a while back when I started having issues with my Mustang, about a year ago almost.
WHAT CAR'S THIS ABOUT?
2011 Mustang GT
WHAT'S WRONG?
My motor seized up on me, we're assuming that it threw a bearing, and that's what was causing the seize., but we're not too sure. My issue is that my motor has seized and that I need to remove the engine, tear it down, replace the rotating assembly with forged parts, and put it back together again.
WHAT'S THE HISTORY?
I received the car in 2011. I modded the car right off the bat, in the first couple of months. At the most, I've had headers, mid pipe, axle back, intake, and intake manifold on the car with 93R tune from Bama Performance.
After a year, the car decided that it wanted to blow cylinder 8. I've never used any other tunes other than Bama's tune.
I took the car to FORD, they said they'd void the warranty if any tunes were found. I called BAMA, they said they'd fix the car if it was under warranty when the issues started, or something to that effect (sorry, i'm really not trying to misquote anyone).
Dealer said that Ford wants the warranty voided, and the warranty was voided. Dealer switched out piston in cylinder #8, and I was charged 700 bucks for the whole thing.
Car was given back to me without a vaccuum hose clamped where it should be. I figured it out after 2 weeks of driving. Car started hesitating when accelerating, no smoke, no visible issues.
2 months after heard rod knock when idling, changed oil, went on road, sounded fine, WOT for ONE pull, and the car died on the road.
WELL... WTH DO YOU WANT FROM US?
I'd like your advice.
I've acquired the following items:
Rotating Assembly .20 Oversized from Stock, @ 10:1 compression ratio for Single / Twin Turbocharger later down the line.
I am going to need to get the following items ( or so I am told ) to rebuild and make the motor strong enough to take forced induction further down the line without any issues:
My questions are as follows:
1) Will I need a new Oil Pump? I want to go for 6-850 HP to the wheels when everything is said and done. Anywhere between that and I'll be a happy camper. Do I need a better one, or can I just use the one I have, or a stock replacement pump?
2) Being that I'm just doing bottom end work, is there anything else that you'd get to make sure the car was stable, until Head work and the turbos went in?
3) How much do you think it would cost to have a machine shop rebuild this motor, given that I'm buying all the parts?
4) Does anyone know of any machine shops around the South NY / North NJ area that can do the work I need? I tried searching online, to no avail. I used google, and searched Machine Shop and all I found were plastic manufactureres.... And all the guys I spoke with want 5000+ even with me supplying everything that's needed for the rebuild.
5) Any advice for me?
Thank you for reading. I know it's a giant wall of text, but I really would like any assistance I can get. Trying to get this whole thing done in the next couple of months, and I'm slowly.... painfully slowly saving up the money to rebuild my motor. I know you get what you pay for... But I don't know anyone that struggles to make ends meet that has 6 grand to plop down onto an engine rebuild, lol.
Thanks guys.
WHO'RE YOU?
I was on the forums a while back when I started having issues with my Mustang, about a year ago almost.
WHAT CAR'S THIS ABOUT?
2011 Mustang GT
WHAT'S WRONG?
My motor seized up on me, we're assuming that it threw a bearing, and that's what was causing the seize., but we're not too sure. My issue is that my motor has seized and that I need to remove the engine, tear it down, replace the rotating assembly with forged parts, and put it back together again.
WHAT'S THE HISTORY?
I received the car in 2011. I modded the car right off the bat, in the first couple of months. At the most, I've had headers, mid pipe, axle back, intake, and intake manifold on the car with 93R tune from Bama Performance.
After a year, the car decided that it wanted to blow cylinder 8. I've never used any other tunes other than Bama's tune.
I took the car to FORD, they said they'd void the warranty if any tunes were found. I called BAMA, they said they'd fix the car if it was under warranty when the issues started, or something to that effect (sorry, i'm really not trying to misquote anyone).
Dealer said that Ford wants the warranty voided, and the warranty was voided. Dealer switched out piston in cylinder #8, and I was charged 700 bucks for the whole thing.
Car was given back to me without a vaccuum hose clamped where it should be. I figured it out after 2 weeks of driving. Car started hesitating when accelerating, no smoke, no visible issues.
2 months after heard rod knock when idling, changed oil, went on road, sounded fine, WOT for ONE pull, and the car died on the road.
WELL... WTH DO YOU WANT FROM US?
I'd like your advice.
I've acquired the following items:
Rotating Assembly .20 Oversized from Stock, @ 10:1 compression ratio for Single / Twin Turbocharger later down the line.
I am going to need to get the following items ( or so I am told ) to rebuild and make the motor strong enough to take forced induction further down the line without any issues:
My questions are as follows:
1) Will I need a new Oil Pump? I want to go for 6-850 HP to the wheels when everything is said and done. Anywhere between that and I'll be a happy camper. Do I need a better one, or can I just use the one I have, or a stock replacement pump?
2) Being that I'm just doing bottom end work, is there anything else that you'd get to make sure the car was stable, until Head work and the turbos went in?
3) How much do you think it would cost to have a machine shop rebuild this motor, given that I'm buying all the parts?
4) Does anyone know of any machine shops around the South NY / North NJ area that can do the work I need? I tried searching online, to no avail. I used google, and searched Machine Shop and all I found were plastic manufactureres.... And all the guys I spoke with want 5000+ even with me supplying everything that's needed for the rebuild.
5) Any advice for me?
Thank you for reading. I know it's a giant wall of text, but I really would like any assistance I can get. Trying to get this whole thing done in the next couple of months, and I'm slowly.... painfully slowly saving up the money to rebuild my motor. I know you get what you pay for... But I don't know anyone that struggles to make ends meet that has 6 grand to plop down onto an engine rebuild, lol.
Thanks guys.
Last edited by SapperDaddy21B; 11-05-2012 at 10:36 PM.
#2
I feel really well hearsed in a lot of areas but the actual nitty gritty inner engine works is my weakest point. I am really interested in reading some response from the tech savvy gurus here.
sorry to read about your troubles but I am looking forward to your build coming together.
sorry to read about your troubles but I am looking forward to your build coming together.
#3
Yeah I put this up on other forums so I can try to get the answers from different people. Been without my car for a few months, and God am I stressed out. So much money all because I refuse to get rid of it.
:-/
:-/
#4
I hear you. if I am separated from my car for a week I am stressed out .. let alone months!
hang in there. keep on dreamin about how sweet it's going to be fully built with forced induction.. going to make it all worth while!
I was really surprised to hear that they just straight out swapped a piston when #8 cyl failed. seems like a band aid fix. to my uneducated brain it sounds like there will be more damage and parts to swap out if that severe of a failure occurs!
hang in there. keep on dreamin about how sweet it's going to be fully built with forced induction.. going to make it all worth while!
I was really surprised to hear that they just straight out swapped a piston when #8 cyl failed. seems like a band aid fix. to my uneducated brain it sounds like there will be more damage and parts to swap out if that severe of a failure occurs!
#5
The reason why the machine shops want so much money is pretty much everything has to be redone, and rebuilding seized engines are high liability due to the possibility of metal shavings still being in the passageways regardless of how much they clean. You may be better off getting a crate engine and going from there.
#6
Pretty much every moving part which comes in contact with the engine oil is toast. Once the bearing started going, the fine metal shavings acted like sand flowing through the engine. So, the oil pump is most likely bad, the cams and the journals will have to be replaced or ground, the valve bushings are probably damaged. Then there is the problem of getting all of the metal shavings out of the engine. Even a little bit of metal left in a oil passageway will be enough to kill the new engine.
The reason why the machine shops want so much money is pretty much everything has to be redone, and rebuilding seized engines are high liability due to the possibility of metal shavings still being in the passageways regardless of how much they clean. You may be better off getting a crate engine and going from there.
The reason why the machine shops want so much money is pretty much everything has to be redone, and rebuilding seized engines are high liability due to the possibility of metal shavings still being in the passageways regardless of how much they clean. You may be better off getting a crate engine and going from there.
#7
#8
Sorry to be so blunt in the last post, but it does suck when a engine spins a bearing. There's no nice way to tell a person what carnage it creates. The Aluminator crate engine linked in the previous post looks pretty good. If you are spending $5k for just the labor to get your engine done, it makes sense to go with something from Ford Racing that's ready to go.
#10
My best advice. Throw this up on S197forum.com...ALOT of serious tech guys there. Maybe someone can help you here but we'll see. If I were in the Jersey area, I'd take my car to JPC.