I am getting the click click noise with the starter. I am assuming it's the solenoid. The car started fine when I left work, then I stopped at Harris Teeter and came back out, I got 2 solid cranks and then one really weak crank and nothing afterwards just the infamous clicks. I push started it to get it home, I should be ok with just replacing the solenoid, if so I was gonna go with the PA Performance High torque unit.

 

The clicking you hear is probably the solenoid moving the starter gear into position, but the starter isn’t spinning. Start by checking your battery. It should be between 12.4 & 12.8. Any lower then that and it needs to be recharged. After that, check fuses & relays. If all that checks out its time to start poking around with a volt/multi-meter.

 

Sounds like a battery issue to me.

 

Fried the primary wire connection at the starter, it went from a 4 gauge wire to 14 gauge of wire, damn salt air, biggest reason why I hate living on the beach. I made a new connection, soldered it and wrapped it and she started up with a vengeance.

 

With the kind of current the starter draws and the reduction in wire size from the corrosion, there was significant voltage drop to the starter causing symptoms of a bad battery. Glad you found it.

 

Had no choice, I had 10 minutes this morning before work, so I got the car up on stands and went under there and looked at, saw that the wire was in bad shape, doesn't help either when it's an inch away from the headers and between the salt air it was just a matter of time before it did that. So I had all day to dwell about it and pray it wasn't the starter. Hopefully the solder will hold up better to corrosion. I had been having some cranking issues lately, but figured it was just the battery(still going to replace it with a optima red top when I install the supercharger) and hopefully after all this is done I will be officially done with all the goofy electrical stuff that has popped up after the swap.

 

Damn, I’m surprised the 14 gauge wire didn’t melt from all the current flowing through it.


It will, but it isn’t impervious. If you put shrink wrap over the joint then it should be fine.

However, if you still have the large 4 gauge wire going to a smaller 14 gauge wire and then to the starter you will be having more electrical problems soon enough. A 14 gauge wire can temporarily carry the amount of current needed for the starter, however, it will heat up something fierce while doing it. Especially during extended crank times. So eventually the 14 gauge wire will melt, break and you’ll be stuck again.
For peace of mind, I would strap the current Frankenstein cable and replace it with a new 4 gauge cable. You’ll save yourself a lot of headaches in the long run.

 

I should of found a better way to rephrase that, it's all 4 gauge wiring, but so much of it was corroded and burnt that it was choked down to about 14 gauge of wire left

 

OK, that makes much more sense. So your fix was to cut out the bad cable and solder in new cable? That would be a temporary solution in my opinion. I would still replace the cable with new cable. If one section of the cable is corroded through, other sections are probably not far behind. Corrosion is like cancer. It spreads very quickly & easily, and is very difficult to remove. Good luck...