Cheapest, safest, reliable way to lower my car?
#12
Basically, you can just buy some lowering springs (I have the Ford Racing K Springs) for the look and be ok; HOWEVER, for ride quality and handling purposes you should upgrade your shocks and struts. I have the Ford Racing Shocks and Struts and do just fine.
#13
Camber bolts $25.00, Camber plates $300.00. Are you going to have your personal mechanic adjust them for every track condition change? No - so C-Bolts are fine and cheap. But saving your money and doing install all at once it cheaper and get matching stuff. Eibach Springs Struts/Shocks and Sway-bars are made to work together.
#15
#16
As long as you are not going to low with your drop ... then you can get away with some minor upgrades that will aid in your car being lowered.
Springs – You can use just the springs, the panhard bar is advised the recenter the rear under the car, it gets offset to the side when lowering with the factory bar. Any panhard bar equipped car is going to shift when lowering the car, in a way a panhard bar is a pendulum…
Lowering with just the springs will cause excessive camber and uneven tire wear up front, that is why we use our strut mounts, in addition to being stronger they have room for camber adjustment, the stock ones don’t.
Camber bolts are an inexpensive way of not using strut mounts, they have less room for adjustment (about ½ degree vs 1-1.5 degrees with mounts).
The dampers (shocks and struts) control how the springs oscillate, the factory ones are matched to the factory springs. Our springs will work well with the factory ones, but upgrading is definitely worth it in terms of ride quality and performance both.
Springs, dampers, and mounts all have the same labor so doing them at the same time also saves on labor cost/time and alignments.
Let me know if I can provide any additional information?
Best Regards,
TJ
Springs – You can use just the springs, the panhard bar is advised the recenter the rear under the car, it gets offset to the side when lowering with the factory bar. Any panhard bar equipped car is going to shift when lowering the car, in a way a panhard bar is a pendulum…
Lowering with just the springs will cause excessive camber and uneven tire wear up front, that is why we use our strut mounts, in addition to being stronger they have room for camber adjustment, the stock ones don’t.
Camber bolts are an inexpensive way of not using strut mounts, they have less room for adjustment (about ½ degree vs 1-1.5 degrees with mounts).
The dampers (shocks and struts) control how the springs oscillate, the factory ones are matched to the factory springs. Our springs will work well with the factory ones, but upgrading is definitely worth it in terms of ride quality and performance both.
Springs, dampers, and mounts all have the same labor so doing them at the same time also saves on labor cost/time and alignments.
Let me know if I can provide any additional information?
Best Regards,
TJ
#17
Really appreciate the info from you and Vistablue. I called my local Performance shop and they quoted me at $440 which is not too bad, they are a pretty damn good shop as i get my car tuned there all the time, experienced with excellent reviews. should be getting my car lowered next month
#18
I appreciate the replies, i think the best thing for me to do is stop by the local Performance shop ( luckily i have one 20 minutes away from my house) and have them look at it and tell me how much it costs to lower it the proper way. I am pretty sure i will be looking at a $1500 bill at least
They've been on the car for 10,000 miles now..
Last edited by TheDivaDanielle; 05-13-2013 at 09:34 AM.
#19
$1500 to install suspension goods? Seems WAYY too high. Order your own parts and just have them install. I love the stance I get from my Eibach Pro-kit & Koni STR.T's. I also needed camber bolts but, thats pretty much it. You will need a panhard bar as well. Don't know how cheap it was when I did it, but it's reliable and thats what really matters