Keeping cool in hot Texas weather ideas
#1
Keeping cool in hot Texas weather ideas
I live in Texas and want to see what I can do to really cool my mustang gt auto..
I've considered a 3 core radiator
Tranny cooler
Oil cooler
Stainless hose coverings
Water wetter
Maybe a colder thermostat.
There are no cooling issues I just want to preserve the life of my engine is Texas heat tends to play hell in a hot engine bay. Also one day I will supercharge and want to be cool for that.
I've considered a 3 core radiator
Tranny cooler
Oil cooler
Stainless hose coverings
Water wetter
Maybe a colder thermostat.
There are no cooling issues I just want to preserve the life of my engine is Texas heat tends to play hell in a hot engine bay. Also one day I will supercharge and want to be cool for that.
#2
I live in Texas and want to see what I can do to really cool my mustang gt auto..
I've considered a 3 core radiator
Tranny cooler
Oil cooler
Stainless hose coverings
Water wetter
Maybe a colder thermostat.
There are no cooling issues I just want to preserve the life of my engine is Texas heat tends to play hell in a hot engine bay. Also one day I will supercharge and want to be cool for that.
I've considered a 3 core radiator
Tranny cooler
Oil cooler
Stainless hose coverings
Water wetter
Maybe a colder thermostat.
There are no cooling issues I just want to preserve the life of my engine is Texas heat tends to play hell in a hot engine bay. Also one day I will supercharge and want to be cool for that.
#3
6th Gear Member
Although any of those and in any combination would provide SOME improved cooling, these engines are designed to operate at a particular temperature. Whether it's 10 degrees or 100 degrees ambient, your engine will operate at that temp +/- a few degrees. IMO, worrying about it is pointless. However, if you race and you're looking to reduce the effects of heatsoak, then by all means go for all or any of those.
Last edited by Nuke; 05-31-2013 at 01:04 PM.
#4
I've not looked real hard, but I've never seen a 3-core radiator for automatic cars. If you do buy a 3-core radiator, and it's not for automatic cars, you then must buy a separate cooler, or re-position the OEM one.
BTW, the car already has a cooler for the trans fluid. Tousley sells them for a little less than $200.
Back in the day, the transmission cooler was actually part of the radiator, but apparently, that's no longer the case.
BTW, the car already has a cooler for the trans fluid. Tousley sells them for a little less than $200.
Back in the day, the transmission cooler was actually part of the radiator, but apparently, that's no longer the case.
#7
water wetter is a no brainer if you don't already have it.
Switching to a blend of coolant/water that has more on the water side can also help lower temps... at the expense of having a lower boiling point.
A colder thermostat won't really do you much good, once your temps are over the thermostat temp it's full open anyway.
An electric water pump has benefits, keeping your car cooler in traffic, and will be a bonus when supercharged, keeping your car drivable if you throw the belt.
The stock radiator seems to be adequate for the off-the-shelf supercharger kits.
As stated earlier if you road race/HPDE then you may want to look at the extra cooling due to the effects of at the limit driving for 20 minutes at a time.
Save for the supercharger.
Switching to a blend of coolant/water that has more on the water side can also help lower temps... at the expense of having a lower boiling point.
A colder thermostat won't really do you much good, once your temps are over the thermostat temp it's full open anyway.
An electric water pump has benefits, keeping your car cooler in traffic, and will be a bonus when supercharged, keeping your car drivable if you throw the belt.
The stock radiator seems to be adequate for the off-the-shelf supercharger kits.
As stated earlier if you road race/HPDE then you may want to look at the extra cooling due to the effects of at the limit driving for 20 minutes at a time.
Save for the supercharger.
#8
I live on the Gulf Coast of Texas, about 50 miles south of Houston. Never had any issues/noticeable heat soak while naturally aspirated. This includes driving for hours at a time with some "spirited" driving.
With my Paxton HO kit and air to air intercooler, doing the same thing there are no overheating issues at all. But there is some noticeable heat soak of the blower, feels like Im losing at least 50RWHP, maybe more. The GT is lucky to come out of the garage now, so its not a big deal to me.
Mine is a manual though. I dont know how the autos are equipped.... But excessive heat is death to an automatic. jsimmonstx says there is a cooler already, maybe you can acquire a more efficient unit or reposition it to receive better airflow...
Like Nuke said, these engines are designed to operate at maximum efficiency at a certain temperature. Too cool, and the engine will be less efficient. I wouldnt worry about changing anything else until you have forced induction of some kind, then it may be necessary.
^^^ If I had the extra cash, I would throw on an electric water pump
With my Paxton HO kit and air to air intercooler, doing the same thing there are no overheating issues at all. But there is some noticeable heat soak of the blower, feels like Im losing at least 50RWHP, maybe more. The GT is lucky to come out of the garage now, so its not a big deal to me.
Mine is a manual though. I dont know how the autos are equipped.... But excessive heat is death to an automatic. jsimmonstx says there is a cooler already, maybe you can acquire a more efficient unit or reposition it to receive better airflow...
Like Nuke said, these engines are designed to operate at maximum efficiency at a certain temperature. Too cool, and the engine will be less efficient. I wouldnt worry about changing anything else until you have forced induction of some kind, then it may be necessary.
^^^ If I had the extra cash, I would throw on an electric water pump
Last edited by red96v6; 05-31-2013 at 11:37 AM.
#10
6th Gear Member
The electric water pump frees-up power similar to the UDP's plus a bit more from not having the fluid resistance; about 3 -6 RWHP. It all adds up, though.
Somebody claimed it was good for about 12 RWHP. I call BS on that.
Somebody claimed it was good for about 12 RWHP. I call BS on that.
Last edited by Nuke; 05-31-2013 at 01:08 PM.