Future proofing daily driver for hard driving
#21
Wow everyone in this community must have issues, including yourself.
First and foremost, I enjoy driving. Perhaps my wording was wrong, but I do not intend to red-line any vehicle at every single stop and go. That would be ridiculous. However, I do not intend to purchase a sports car to keep it under 3000rpm 24/7. Exploring the upper power-band is fun, and when done in a controlled manner can be completely safe.
Secondly, it is absurd of you to bring my personal health up in a topic about maintaining a car. My vision issues are merely limited to not being able to see depth, which increases the difficultly of tasks like parking. NOT driving in general. In my original post, my concern was with the physical size of the mustang and my ability to adjust my awareness of the size of the car, not about my concern of driving it.
This post was intended to seek information about potential modifications that can future proof my car for a lifetime of fun and intense driving. This doesn't mean red-lining it all the time, my wording was wrong. I wanted information on oils that would be better, or recommended suspension upgrades, or any parts on these cars that don't like being driven more aggressively than your grandma's buick. Clearly you, and/or this community, like to focus on the negative aspects and putting other people down.
I may be 19. But I don't know any 19 year olds who have the credit and the income to purchase a brand new mustang. And I certainly don't know any 19 year olds who would ask questions and plan ahead to the level that I have. Then again... I also don't have any friends who drive Honda Civics, because I never have and never will hang out with that crowd.
First and foremost, I enjoy driving. Perhaps my wording was wrong, but I do not intend to red-line any vehicle at every single stop and go. That would be ridiculous. However, I do not intend to purchase a sports car to keep it under 3000rpm 24/7. Exploring the upper power-band is fun, and when done in a controlled manner can be completely safe.
Secondly, it is absurd of you to bring my personal health up in a topic about maintaining a car. My vision issues are merely limited to not being able to see depth, which increases the difficultly of tasks like parking. NOT driving in general. In my original post, my concern was with the physical size of the mustang and my ability to adjust my awareness of the size of the car, not about my concern of driving it.
This post was intended to seek information about potential modifications that can future proof my car for a lifetime of fun and intense driving. This doesn't mean red-lining it all the time, my wording was wrong. I wanted information on oils that would be better, or recommended suspension upgrades, or any parts on these cars that don't like being driven more aggressively than your grandma's buick. Clearly you, and/or this community, like to focus on the negative aspects and putting other people down.
I may be 19. But I don't know any 19 year olds who have the credit and the income to purchase a brand new mustang. And I certainly don't know any 19 year olds who would ask questions and plan ahead to the level that I have. Then again... I also don't have any friends who drive Honda Civics, because I never have and never will hang out with that crowd.
#22
For the kind of driving you are interested in (redlining from light to light, worried about hurting the engine, avoiding the cops, and daily driven) I suggest a yota camry...
But if you think about it... yota's last forever (at least the older ones did), cops generally wont notice (or hear) a 4-banger, 4-door. At 19 your prob gonna be driving all your friends around (yota's are safe) and you'll get better MPG!! It's a WIN WIN!!
and you can fit those 15" in the trunk! BOOM BOOM!
But if you think about it... yota's last forever (at least the older ones did), cops generally wont notice (or hear) a 4-banger, 4-door. At 19 your prob gonna be driving all your friends around (yota's are safe) and you'll get better MPG!! It's a WIN WIN!!
and you can fit those 15" in the trunk! BOOM BOOM!
Last edited by Stang-aholic; 06-10-2013 at 12:27 PM.
#23
Why don't you just save a little money and get a used 2011 5.0 for the same price? If you're looking for a performance car, there are plenty more out there for the same price that are potentially better. Just look at Car and Driver or Motortrend, they do these kinds of head-to-head tests all the time. I believe the FR-S/BRZ won in the C&D tests, and costs less to boot. Not that I'm saying a Mustang isn't a good option, just sit down and seriously think about what it is that you are wanting out of a car. I doubt anybody chose a Mustang based on it's handling...
#24
Why don't you just save a little money and get a used 2011 5.0 for the same price? If you're looking for a performance car, there are plenty more out there for the same price that are potentially better. Just look at Car and Driver or Motortrend, they do these kinds of head-to-head tests all the time. I believe the FR-S/BRZ won in the C&D tests, and costs less to boot. Not that I'm saying a Mustang isn't a good option, just sit down and seriously think about what it is that you are wanting out of a car. I doubt anybody chose a Mustang based on it's handling...
#25
Coming from a younger mustang owner who has received alot of **** because of his car, here's my advice to you. Don't do it. unless you just absolutely have to have a mustang.
there are many more cheap cars out there that can handle better for less money, and if you blow the engine you're out of pocket WAY less money than if you destroyed the mustangs engine. If I could have done it again it probably would have been a foxbody 5.0 or possibly something along the lines of a s2000.
If you absolutely HAVE to have the new mustang, I'd suggest starting with better tires, brake pads, a new intake/tuner, and sway bars will be a good start. After that ONLY add parts if it's something you know you actually need. Don't be buying control arms and upper links and such without actually knowing you need it, It beats buying a part and realizing you didn't actually need it at all.
I'm a young guy who drives the **** out of his DD v6er, mines a 07 but if you go through with it and cant get any advice anywhere message me. good luck and don't kill yourself
there are many more cheap cars out there that can handle better for less money, and if you blow the engine you're out of pocket WAY less money than if you destroyed the mustangs engine. If I could have done it again it probably would have been a foxbody 5.0 or possibly something along the lines of a s2000.
If you absolutely HAVE to have the new mustang, I'd suggest starting with better tires, brake pads, a new intake/tuner, and sway bars will be a good start. After that ONLY add parts if it's something you know you actually need. Don't be buying control arms and upper links and such without actually knowing you need it, It beats buying a part and realizing you didn't actually need it at all.
I'm a young guy who drives the **** out of his DD v6er, mines a 07 but if you go through with it and cant get any advice anywhere message me. good luck and don't kill yourself
Last edited by conor1148; 06-10-2013 at 06:57 PM.
#26
True, I chose based on looks and power level. At the time everything else looked like an egg.
I was surprised by it's handling at first since it was so much better than prior versions I had driven from hertz, but then as I got used to it I realized the stock suspension really was good at nothing.
I was surprised by it's handling at first since it was so much better than prior versions I had driven from hertz, but then as I got used to it I realized the stock suspension really was good at nothing.
#27
Murgatroy is a Troll. It's called "Spirited Driving" or on-ramp excel to the posted speed.
The only 3.7 I saw with super charging blowed-up. Read your owner op, know what "Traction Control On/Off" is and "Advanced Trac Loc" is and what it does. Do you have Posi-traction? I know the new V6 has an 8.8" rear but what gear ratio? 2.73 (sucks) 3.31 (ok) 3.73 (weeee!). Long Tube (L/T) Headers are best but do before Clutch/Fly and save some money LT can block trans work. 3.7's need a Mac Pro-Box mid-pipe after your Cats. See AM, $299 will sound great (Just like a V8), some better mufs and a Ford Racing 73mm Throttle Body with a CAI and 92 tune. That light car will fly and you'll pass all the GT's at the gas station. Also work on the suspension, keep like parts together and you'll be better off like all BMR or Eirbach parts because they will be compatible, i.e... some get after market struts and shocks and keep the stock springs.
Go to the Ford dealer and get the Ford Racing Catalog $5 it will show all possible speed up-grades and have a page or two explaining the concepts. Like why are racing exhaust valves filled with sodium and not the intake? Don't put that stupid spacer between your T/B and the intake manifold if you get the 73mm and CAI. If you get the Ford Pro-Cal tune K&N filter and GT-500 axil backs put on at Ford, you won't void your warranty. But you won't be doing screaming cheetah wheelies either. If you gotta bust-out da-throttle go to the local track, all you need is a helmet and some gumption. Later.
The only 3.7 I saw with super charging blowed-up. Read your owner op, know what "Traction Control On/Off" is and "Advanced Trac Loc" is and what it does. Do you have Posi-traction? I know the new V6 has an 8.8" rear but what gear ratio? 2.73 (sucks) 3.31 (ok) 3.73 (weeee!). Long Tube (L/T) Headers are best but do before Clutch/Fly and save some money LT can block trans work. 3.7's need a Mac Pro-Box mid-pipe after your Cats. See AM, $299 will sound great (Just like a V8), some better mufs and a Ford Racing 73mm Throttle Body with a CAI and 92 tune. That light car will fly and you'll pass all the GT's at the gas station. Also work on the suspension, keep like parts together and you'll be better off like all BMR or Eirbach parts because they will be compatible, i.e... some get after market struts and shocks and keep the stock springs.
Go to the Ford dealer and get the Ford Racing Catalog $5 it will show all possible speed up-grades and have a page or two explaining the concepts. Like why are racing exhaust valves filled with sodium and not the intake? Don't put that stupid spacer between your T/B and the intake manifold if you get the 73mm and CAI. If you get the Ford Pro-Cal tune K&N filter and GT-500 axil backs put on at Ford, you won't void your warranty. But you won't be doing screaming cheetah wheelies either. If you gotta bust-out da-throttle go to the local track, all you need is a helmet and some gumption. Later.
#28
dpr8ter your a heretic and shall be banished from the land of Stang, ignore him. It's a proven fact (by Scientists in white lab coats) that a woman's nostrils will flare 34.5% more when she sees a Mustang in the 13 to 11 sec ET range, then for a Sion cT with neon rims.
Any American who directs the youth of America to take up the way of the "Do-Jo" speed metal Asian assassin machines is heresy and you should be cursed to drive a 1974 Silver Mustang II notch-back with a landau roof, 2.3 liter v4 and a 3 speed overdrive on the column for all eternity. Your welcome.
Any American who directs the youth of America to take up the way of the "Do-Jo" speed metal Asian assassin machines is heresy and you should be cursed to drive a 1974 Silver Mustang II notch-back with a landau roof, 2.3 liter v4 and a 3 speed overdrive on the column for all eternity. Your welcome.
#30
hahaha Vista I like the comment, I'd personally never own a western car (anything made west of the US) but european is ok... And I was sayin it with extreme sarcasm! For the price of a 2014 v6 you could make one **** of a drag/street/DD using a mustang body from the scrapyard and turning it into anything (drag/road race).