mdg

Reflashed my tune last week, and put about 60 miles on her. Took it in for emissions and was told the CPU wasn't ready for testing. Called Brenspeed about this, O2 sensors are on. Never had this issue before in the past with my 93 tune. Reloaded the 91 tune today, will run it for a while and restest.

Anyone else have any issues like this? I had the alternator replaced a couple months ago and the battery was drained. Could this attribute to the cause? Thought that reflashing would correct everything.

BairdGT

Are you running a O/R X/H pipe with your tunes?

Forgive my ignorance but why are they even checking the CPU all emissions should be doing is measuring the emissions that are coming out of your mufflers..

Most emissions testing here (Canada) well in the provinces that do emission testing just slap your car on a drive on dyno shove shove the rod in the muffler and drive it... and its been awhile since i lived in a province needing emissions but they drive your car at like 50km/hr and 100km/hr and at idle and you have to pass all 3 in order to pass.

Is it tested differently in the US?

Ricardo

Sounds like your testing station runs OBD, Utah plugs into the car too. Front can be turned on but if the rear are off in the tune for any reason it won't ever be ready. My rear are turned off for my off road x-pipe and Torque shows it as permanently not ready. There's a post around here discussing that you have to drive the car a certain amount of time/mileage for it to be emissions ready after a new tune that turns them back on. Make sure you specifically tell Brenspeed that you want rear O2 sensors turned on as they turn them off by default in their tunes.

Since you have so much invested in your engine, you should get a OBD II Bluetooth adaptor and run Torque on your smartphone/tablet and you can run a real time PID view. It'll tell you what your O2 sensors are doing and if it's ready to test. I also run ScanTool's software.

BairdGT

Ricardo, Curious which bluetooth adapter with torque are you using? I got the ELM327 but I need a different one cause I keep banging my knee off of it cause it sticks out so far.

Matt's 95 Stang

You would think right? Nope. Here is Cali they plug in to the computer, sniff test, AND visual inspection to make sure your not getting around the system somehow.

OP like others have said my first guess would be the rear O2s turned off.

Matthew

JCON

I think every US state does a minimum of the OBD II tests for 96 and newer. The ELM 327 will show the state of the sensors. I have an off road set up and rear sensor turned off and I passed emissions last month on the OBD II test. I would check with the tuner.

The Ford drive cycle test can be found here: http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

Ricardo

I'm running the ScanTool 426101 OBDLink. It only sticks out an inch or so, not too bad. It's the priciest one but came with Scantool's software. Hope you figure it out and pass emissions

ziperhead

I go through this every year.

When you re-flash your calibration the IM monitors are reset and the Ford Drive cycle needs to be done. If your IAT'S are over 100 deg you need to do the drive cycle twice per step 14 like I do .. lol. I get a scanner from Autozone and monitor the IM's until there ready and go get her tested . The Evap is the toughest. Just follow the link above.

Tips from other post's

The EVAP test must be completed within the first 30 minutes of operation or it will not invoke.
Starting with a COLD engine and ambient temp above 40F (40 to 100F) with 1/2 to 3/4 tank of fuel.
Load your Emissions Tune with your XC2 or Diablo, or whatever you use.
Plug in the Reader.
Turn Key ON without starting the engine.
Clear any codes and this will also reset your emission monitors to clear.
Turn Key OFF.
Turn Key ON and start the engine.
Idle 15 seconds before you do anything else.
Then go drive on a level as possible road at 40 to 55 mph for about 10 minutes after your coolant reaches 170deg.
avoid sharp turns or hills that will slosh the fuel around.
A little pre-planning of your route helps here.
Use an even and slow throttle depressions to accelerate and decel.
Monitor the reader for the EVAP ball to go steady.
May take a few attempts to get this one but if you can get by EVAP the other tests are easy to get done by just popping on the freeway and driving around town.
When you have the green light and no codes your ready for emissions testing.

Takes me all of 10 miles or so

mdg

Thanks for all of the advice. I'm over 80 miles since my last reflash, will try it again tomorrow!

Derf00

Did they tell you what sensors weren't "ready to test" Their system should be able to tell which ones have and have not completed their drive cycle. That will tell you if it's a tune related issue or not.

A drive cycle can be completed in a short distance/time or may take up to a week to complete and a couple hundred miles.

It's not about how far you've driven, it's about the conditions you've driven and the number of cycles (turning on and shutting off your engine) like Ziperhead mentioned.