bad A/C actuator?
10-28-2013, 01:14 PM
#1
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: FL
Posts: 1,138
bad A/C actuator?
Hey guys. So I've been looking around on the forums for similar issues and I haven't hit anything exactly like my problem but similar. When I set the vents from only floor to off i hear a very quick and rapid clicking noise. It's about a second long but sounds like someone tapping plastic very quickly under my dash. Some people report similar issues with the blend door but I assume the blend door is only for heat/cold mix and that's not a problem. My problem is simply when changing the vent from floors.
I assume it's more or less a similar actuator just in a different location. Since I'm about 5 years out of warranty I'm not sure I want to take it to a dealer when my schedule and dealer's schedules are not always too conveniently aligned. Has anyone dealt with this? How hard is it to replace? etc?
Thanks everyone.
I assume it's more or less a similar actuator just in a different location. Since I'm about 5 years out of warranty I'm not sure I want to take it to a dealer when my schedule and dealer's schedules are not always too conveniently aligned. Has anyone dealt with this? How hard is it to replace? etc?
Thanks everyone.
10-28-2013, 02:13 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 348
I did some research on this as I had the same clicking noise in my 2011 Mustang GT...you'll have to sign up to view the thread...
Post #27:
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthrea...t=41729&page=2
I took it to the dealer for warranty repair...would have been about $170 parts and labor...
Part # FMC AR3Z 19E616 E Door Actuator (DEFROST)
Description MOTOR ASY
Post #27:
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthrea...t=41729&page=2
I took it to the dealer for warranty repair...would have been about $170 parts and labor...
Part # FMC AR3Z 19E616 E Door Actuator (DEFROST)
Description MOTOR ASY
Last edited by magnido45; 10-28-2013 at 02:23 PM. Reason: mistype
10-28-2013, 02:16 PM
#3
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Looks like there are three separate modules that control the direction of the air flow.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=336&viewfil...Floor Door.pdf
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=336&viewfil...frost Door.pdf
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=336&viewfil...Inlet Door.pdf
Overview of location:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=336&viewfil...um Chamber.pdf
I get an occasional click when switching from Floor/Passenger compartment to something else, but that's it.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=336&viewfil...Floor Door.pdf
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=336&viewfil...frost Door.pdf
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=336&viewfil...Inlet Door.pdf
Overview of location:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=336&viewfil...um Chamber.pdf
I get an occasional click when switching from Floor/Passenger compartment to something else, but that's it.
Last edited by Derf00; 10-28-2013 at 02:18 PM.
08-21-2016, 03:02 PM
#5
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 26
A BIG THANK YOU for posting the exploded views of where the actuators are.
I guess I'm out of excuses now .... new parts sitting on the workbench, instructions in hand.
The wife better appreciate this .... she has begun to call it "the little drummer boy in my dash" ....
I guess I'm out of excuses now .... new parts sitting on the workbench, instructions in hand.
The wife better appreciate this .... she has begun to call it "the little drummer boy in my dash" ....
08-22-2016, 05:45 AM
#6
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 26
I dove in there and got the actuator that was acting up replaced. One thing that is not clear on the diagrams shown in the links is that there is one actuator on the driver side, and TWO on the passenger side. I found only two listed on the Rock Auto website, and purchased both. They were original Ford parts and cost around $22 each.
The part numbers are VERY similar with the exception that one has a "-A" suffix on the long part number stamped on it and only has two contact pins. EDIT ...This is also YH-1869, and may be the heat blend door actuator.The other ones in use have a "-B" suffix in the part number (actually "-BA" on the part itself). This one has 6 pins if I am remembering correctly, might be 5. This "-B" suffix piece is also called YH-1870. (end of EDIT).
The ones on the passenger side are accessible through the glove box opening. You will want to completely remove the glovebox, not merely drop it past the stops. You will appreciate the added working room. Also, throw a rag over the hinge area of the opening. There is a sharp edge there that will make your life hell if you don't.
Once you can see the actuators, it is easy to feel which one is tapping.
The offending actuator in her car was (of course) the upper one, and connected to the switch on the right side. The lower one is easier to get to. The upper one is a bit of a struggle to get to. I am 6 foot tall, and had to lay with my back against the front edge of the seat, looking up into the area with a flashlight. I had to hook my elbow into the glovebox opening in order to get my hand near the screws. They are hex head, so using a 1/4 drive stubby ratchet, a small breaker bar, and a hand ratchet all were needed to get these out. You can barely see the upper screw.
All that being said ... 45 minutes and I had the new one in. Works great.
I dissected the bad one, and no missing teeth but the gears were getting thin in the range of motion, and likely slipping.
My wife always has started the car with the A/C off, which is an old school thing to do. Old cars had compressors that took 10 times the HP to turn than some new ones. So, every time she starts the car, that actuator was getting used. I have convinced her now that it is OK to just leave it set on A/C until she wants heat the few days needed here in Florida.
Hope this helps anyone needing this fix.
The part numbers are VERY similar with the exception that one has a "-A" suffix on the long part number stamped on it and only has two contact pins. EDIT ...This is also YH-1869, and may be the heat blend door actuator.The other ones in use have a "-B" suffix in the part number (actually "-BA" on the part itself). This one has 6 pins if I am remembering correctly, might be 5. This "-B" suffix piece is also called YH-1870. (end of EDIT).
The ones on the passenger side are accessible through the glove box opening. You will want to completely remove the glovebox, not merely drop it past the stops. You will appreciate the added working room. Also, throw a rag over the hinge area of the opening. There is a sharp edge there that will make your life hell if you don't.
Once you can see the actuators, it is easy to feel which one is tapping.
The offending actuator in her car was (of course) the upper one, and connected to the switch on the right side. The lower one is easier to get to. The upper one is a bit of a struggle to get to. I am 6 foot tall, and had to lay with my back against the front edge of the seat, looking up into the area with a flashlight. I had to hook my elbow into the glovebox opening in order to get my hand near the screws. They are hex head, so using a 1/4 drive stubby ratchet, a small breaker bar, and a hand ratchet all were needed to get these out. You can barely see the upper screw.
All that being said ... 45 minutes and I had the new one in. Works great.
I dissected the bad one, and no missing teeth but the gears were getting thin in the range of motion, and likely slipping.
My wife always has started the car with the A/C off, which is an old school thing to do. Old cars had compressors that took 10 times the HP to turn than some new ones. So, every time she starts the car, that actuator was getting used. I have convinced her now that it is OK to just leave it set on A/C until she wants heat the few days needed here in Florida.
Hope this helps anyone needing this fix.
Last edited by CaptainComet; 08-26-2016 at 02:15 AM. Reason: Read more info that conflicts with what I posted.
08-22-2016, 09:48 AM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 348
I dove in there and got the actuator that was acting up replaced. One thing that is not clear on the diagrams shown in the links is that there is one actuator on the driver side, and TWO on the passenger side. I found only two listed on the Rock Auto website, and purchased both. They were original Ford parts and cost around $22 each.
The part numbers are VERY similar with the exception that one has a "-A" suffix and only has two contact pins. It should be the one that installs on the driver side of the plenum. The other two have a "-B" suffix in the part number (actually "-BA" on the part itself). This one has 6 pins if I am remembering correctly, might be 5. Same part, two of them in use.
The ones on the passenger side are accessible through the glove box opening. You will want to completely remove the glovebox, not merely drop it past the stops. You will appreciate the added working room. Also, throw a rag over the hinge area of the opening. There is a sharp edge there that will make your life hell if you don't.
Once you can see the actuators, it is easy to feel which one is tapping.
The offending actuator in her car was (of course) the upper one, and connected to the switch on the right side. The lower one is easier to get to. The upper one is a bit of a struggle to get to. I am 6 foot tall, and had to lay with my back against the front edge of the seat, looking up into the area with a flashlight. I had to hook my elbow into the glovebox opening in order to get my hand near the screws. They are hex head, so using a 1/4 drive stubby ratchet, a small breaker bar, and a hand ratchet all were needed to get these out. You can barely see the upper screw.
All that being said ... 45 minutes and I had the new one in. Works great.
I dissected the bad one, and no missing teeth but the gears were getting thin in the range of motion, and likely slipping.
My wife always has started the car with the A/C off, which is an old school thing to do. Old cars had compressors that took 10 times the HP to turn than some new ones. So, every time she starts the car, that actuator was getting used. I have convinced her now that it is OK to just leave it set on A/C until she wants heat the few days needed here in Florida.
Hope this helps anyone needing this fix.
The part numbers are VERY similar with the exception that one has a "-A" suffix and only has two contact pins. It should be the one that installs on the driver side of the plenum. The other two have a "-B" suffix in the part number (actually "-BA" on the part itself). This one has 6 pins if I am remembering correctly, might be 5. Same part, two of them in use.
The ones on the passenger side are accessible through the glove box opening. You will want to completely remove the glovebox, not merely drop it past the stops. You will appreciate the added working room. Also, throw a rag over the hinge area of the opening. There is a sharp edge there that will make your life hell if you don't.
Once you can see the actuators, it is easy to feel which one is tapping.
The offending actuator in her car was (of course) the upper one, and connected to the switch on the right side. The lower one is easier to get to. The upper one is a bit of a struggle to get to. I am 6 foot tall, and had to lay with my back against the front edge of the seat, looking up into the area with a flashlight. I had to hook my elbow into the glovebox opening in order to get my hand near the screws. They are hex head, so using a 1/4 drive stubby ratchet, a small breaker bar, and a hand ratchet all were needed to get these out. You can barely see the upper screw.
All that being said ... 45 minutes and I had the new one in. Works great.
I dissected the bad one, and no missing teeth but the gears were getting thin in the range of motion, and likely slipping.
My wife always has started the car with the A/C off, which is an old school thing to do. Old cars had compressors that took 10 times the HP to turn than some new ones. So, every time she starts the car, that actuator was getting used. I have convinced her now that it is OK to just leave it set on A/C until she wants heat the few days needed here in Florida.
Hope this helps anyone needing this fix.
Thanks for sharing!!! So is the A/C actuator a totally different actuator from the Defrost actuator? Derf00's 10/28/13 post referred to 3 types...please advise which one...thanks.
08-22-2016, 02:39 PM
#8
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Two PN YH1870 or 6R3Z-19E616-B. These are on the top left and right centerstack, behind the dash. The passenger side one controls the air flow from the dash panel to the defrost vents. The driver side one controls the air flow from the dash panel to the floor vents.
The one at the bottom of the center-stack, behind the dash on the passenger side is Ford PN YH1865 or 5F9Z-19E616-EA it looks identical to YH1870 but with no arm attached. It controls the temperature (hot/cold) (aka Temperature blend door)
The fourth actuator that is tucked away in the very corner of the passenger foot-well. It's located to the right of the blower motor, against the firewall or above the SJB and just to the left of it. This one controls the Recirculation of air (inside vs outside air) and is PN YH1869 or 6R3Z-19E616-A.. If that needs replacing, you will not need to remove anything, as it is easily accessible from under the dash. You just need to be able to work in tight places
Last thing, here is the reset/calibration procedure for the actuators once you have them installed
NOTE: The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points.
To carry out calibration, carry out the following steps.
Remove Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 10 and SJB fuse 12 for at least one minute.
NOTE: When the ignition switch is switched to the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators.
Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.
NOTE: If the actuator fails to calibrate correctly (mode door does not work correctly), inspect the heater core and evaporator core housing for foreign objects or debris.
Reinstall SJB fuse 10 and SJB fuse 12. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct operation.
http://www.justanswer.com/ford/2txgf...hermostat.html
Last edited by Derf00; 08-24-2016 at 03:05 PM. Reason: Updated part numbers (again) :p
08-22-2016, 02:47 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 348
In total there are four actuators and two types.
The ones at the top of the center-stack, behind the dash, on the left and right will have arms on the mechanism (Ford PN YH1870). These two are identical and responsible for the direction of airflow. The passenger side one is responsible for the defrost vents the drivers side one is responsible for floor vents.
The one at the bottom of the center-stack, behind the dash on the passenger side is Ford PN YH1869. it looks identical to YH1870 but with no arm attached. It controls the temperature (hot/cold) (aka Temperature blend door)
There is a fourth actuator that is tucked away in the very corner of the passenger foot-well. It's located to the right of the blower motor, against the firewall. (or above the SJB and to the left of it). I suspect this one controls the Recirculation of air (inside vs outside air) and is geared (YH1869) since there is no room for an arm there. If that needs replacing, you will not need to remove anything, as it is easily accessible from under the dash. You just need to be able to work in tight places
The ones at the top of the center-stack, behind the dash, on the left and right will have arms on the mechanism (Ford PN YH1870). These two are identical and responsible for the direction of airflow. The passenger side one is responsible for the defrost vents the drivers side one is responsible for floor vents.
The one at the bottom of the center-stack, behind the dash on the passenger side is Ford PN YH1869. it looks identical to YH1870 but with no arm attached. It controls the temperature (hot/cold) (aka Temperature blend door)
There is a fourth actuator that is tucked away in the very corner of the passenger foot-well. It's located to the right of the blower motor, against the firewall. (or above the SJB and to the left of it). I suspect this one controls the Recirculation of air (inside vs outside air) and is geared (YH1869) since there is no room for an arm there. If that needs replacing, you will not need to remove anything, as it is easily accessible from under the dash. You just need to be able to work in tight places
08-22-2016, 03:03 PM
#10
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
yeah that sounds like the one to the right of the center-stack at the top.
It's not hard, it's just a bit difficult to work in the area because there isn't much clearance. As I recall I used a small 1/4" drive ratchet with a 3 inch extension and a 6/7mm shallow socket (I don't believe it's even an 8mm). You might be able to get away with just a deep socket (no extension).
They don't take very much torque (89 in/lbs). You have to use a socket because the body of the actuator gets in the way of the bolt so a ratcheting box end wrench wouldn't work (I tried that).
When putting the new actuator in, make sure the arm engages the groove of the door then manipulate the body of the actuator to align it to the bolt holes while keep the arm's tab engaged in the groove of the door.
You'll be able to see the groove because it will have a lot of grease on it. I took some Lithium grease and lubed the tab on the arm of the new actuator. You can use moly grease as well.
Do not try to adjust the angle of the arm on the actuator to make it easier to align with the door groove and mounting holes. You will ruin the motor that way. You can move the door manually to get the groove into a different angle. That doesn't hurt anything.
It's not hard, it's just a bit difficult to work in the area because there isn't much clearance. As I recall I used a small 1/4" drive ratchet with a 3 inch extension and a 6/7mm shallow socket (I don't believe it's even an 8mm). You might be able to get away with just a deep socket (no extension).
They don't take very much torque (89 in/lbs). You have to use a socket because the body of the actuator gets in the way of the bolt so a ratcheting box end wrench wouldn't work (I tried that).
When putting the new actuator in, make sure the arm engages the groove of the door then manipulate the body of the actuator to align it to the bolt holes while keep the arm's tab engaged in the groove of the door.
You'll be able to see the groove because it will have a lot of grease on it. I took some Lithium grease and lubed the tab on the arm of the new actuator. You can use moly grease as well.
Do not try to adjust the angle of the arm on the actuator to make it easier to align with the door groove and mounting holes. You will ruin the motor that way. You can move the door manually to get the groove into a different angle. That doesn't hurt anything.