m5miler

Hey guys its been awhile since i've posted. Happy upcoming new year. My car has 95k miles on it as we speak and I know the spark plugs need to be changed, they haven't been changed since I've owned the car. I've been looking around at different sets to get and I don't know which to go with. Does it really matter? I figured I'd just buy the ford racing spark plug set.

Goldenpony

95K on the OE plugs? Good luck. You might be wise to either buy or borrow the Lysle removal tool before you start. Hopefully you are up on the procedure for removing the 2 piece plugs. You should also obtain some of the nickel anti-sieze stuff to put on the new plugs. It goes on the smooth, ground shield, not the threads. Also, be very careful NOT to get any on the firing end or the plug will short out. If you would like to go back with a 1 piece plug, check into Champion double platinum plugs. Remember, the 2 piece plugs will snap at about 35 ft/lbs. of torque. This ruins your whole day.

86HOGT

I just did mine at 38k and even then it was eerie. I went with Autolite HT1's. I broke the OEM plugs loose at a touch over 30ft/lbs and then just worked them back and forth very slowly until they all came out unbroken. The noise the make coming out is pretty scary at first. GOOD LUCK.

Fox Fader

Ditto

Rocket Ray

Do a search about pulling these plugs. You will want the engine warm (not hot) before starting. Also I would spray some penetrating oil on top of the plugs the day before. Definitely replace with one piece plugs.

Goldenpony

For the penetrating oil to do any good, you need to JUST break the plug slightly loose. You need to break the seal between the head and the tapered seat on the plug so the oil can "creep" by it and get to the carbon that cements the plug in the head. Don't try to turn it, just crack it loose and shoot a good penetrant maybe the top of the hex of the plug and let it sit a good long time. You want to work the plug back and forth a little bit at a time. Don't rush it. If still tight, shoot more oil and let it sit a while longer. A torque wrench is good when removing. I wouldn't exceed maybe 32 ft/lb when backing out.

Lethaldosage423

Another tip on removal,
Start off with the tips said above
If you end up breaking one, it's time to break out the half inch impact. No joke it will get them all out no problem. It goes against everything I was taught but it's the only way

white08gt

start running Seafoam thru your gas tank for a few fillups. then run it thru your intake and should help break loose carbon buildup. my son in law did this to his 2007 5.4 truck engine with 114k miles and all came out without breaking. he was sweating it too, either real lucky or SeaFoam worked magic.

Ricardo

NO! Never, ever do this! M5Miler, do not follow this advice! Listen to those of us who wrench on these cars regularly and have done this many times. There's a huge potential to damage the soft aluminum head with the spark plug. Follow the TSB step by step and if you break one, get the Lysle tool. $75 and a few extra minutes vs. possibly $700 for a new head and however much downtime your car will require.

Goldenpony

+1 on NOT using impact