Changed spark plugs (3 broke)
#12
I have posted this before and I think it is very important...I was told by a mechanic who has done MANY of these plug changes and has NEVER broken one...I have changed 4 Mustangs following his directions and never broken one...start with the engine at OPERATING TEMP...then soak with deep creep and within 15 mins break them loose...30 lbs applied torque max...work them back and forth and they will loosen up, and remove.
#13
I want to do this on my fiancée's 07 GT with only 15,400 miles on it before it gets to the point that they will break. Do you think any of the plugs will break with so few miles on them? Are the Champions the best option as replacements? Thanks.
Wayne
Wayne
#14
I'd be wary about doing it at operating temp. I have read that is a good way to pull out the threads in the head. My own opinion is that the Champion plugs are the way to go. they are one piece and will not break coming out. Good luck. With those few miles they should come out with no problem,
#15
I have posted this before and I think it is very important...I was told by a mechanic who has done MANY of these plug changes and has NEVER broken one...I have changed 4 Mustangs following his directions and never broken one...start with the engine at OPERATING TEMP...then soak with deep creep and within 15 mins break them loose...30 lbs applied torque max...work them back and forth and they will loosen up, and remove.
Edit: I take that back, the TSB says do NOT do it when the engine is warm or hot. I drove mine to my buddies shop and soaked and let it cool for 15-30 minutes. It was definitely not room temperature by that point. I wouldn't suggest doing it HOT, well, I won't suggest doing anything other than what the TSB says, but I did mine warm. Most important part of the process is not to install 2 piece plugs again! I used Champions but be prepared to be bent over the counter with the price of them. They know you want them and not the crappy 2 piece plugs and they price them accordingly.
Last edited by AJ06GT; 01-17-2014 at 03:24 PM.
#16
I mostly agree with AJ06GT. You do have to just crack the plugs just a tiny bit, enough to break the tapered seat seal so the penetrating oil can get past the seat to the carbon. I found I couldn't break them loose dead cold. I ran the engine at idle for maybe 1-2 minutes just to warm it and then the plugs cracked loose.
#17
I appreciate your views guys, but here is the explanation my mechanic friend gave. His success with MANY Triton and Mustang plug changes...along with his unused Lisle tool convinced me! At operating temp the carbon is at its softest...also the aluminum head expands faster then the steel plug...so it is slightly loose. Think about it...you are actually applying more force and there is greater resistance with a colder engine. Also the shield is what is seized not the threads and the plug will break before ever stripping the threads. Should you apply enough force to break the plug.
Last edited by Lifter583; 01-19-2014 at 09:25 AM.
#20
I have a Lisle kit and a special OTC spark plug socket tool for the 4.6 if anyone is interested. Both have been used before I bought them and they worked flawlessly with an 07 F150 w over 140k on it. It took out the rear bad broken plug like butter. I believe, that without it being here, we'd of had to remove the head to get it all out. I'm a believer in the Lisle kit. The socket is solid with the extension built in, so there is no flexing to crack the old take out plugs.
If anyone wants them, $75.00 shipped. PM me if interested.
If anyone wants them, $75.00 shipped. PM me if interested.