SPARTAN VI

Aren't you the dude who posted about making $20k a year? And all the other posts about how to spend as little as possible on mods?

For starters, it's an easier financial commitment to start with a V6. Not everyone is willing to finance another $10k for a GT. I would've thought you, of all people, would've understood that.

B's 5.0

Congrats, but,

RazorGT

which is why I buy used cars - ie: u can get used 2011 5.0's in the low 20s.

SPARTAN VI

Used 2011+ GTs in that price range are usually running around 30k plus miles, which means the factory warranty has nearly/already expired. Less than a month ago, I was in the market for a used S197 5.0, and the best deals in my area were $24-25k with about 23k miles. This wasn't acceptable considering I can get a NEW '14 GT for $28k (via Ford's cash back incentives). An extra $3-4k for a new car, full warranty, and less than 50 miles? It was a no brainer.

Other than that, every buyer looks for different things when car shopping. When I was looking for my new stang, I had my mind set on a 5.0, but wouldn't even consider a 2011-2012 GT because I prefer the 2013-2014 styling. My fiance was so specific in what she was looking for in her 328i that she wouldn't even consider used/certified pre-owned let alone new vehicles that were missing even ONE of her wishlist items (e.g. tech package, M-sport package, and convenience package). Point is, you can woulda-coulda-shoulda the OP all day, but you haven't a clue what HE really wants outside of the obvious; a Mustang.

DOM1994

well if i had money for a 5.0 i would get that and i believe i will do forced induction thats why i want a stage 3 and also my good friend has an evo 10 with 600 hp and a stage 3 clutch and no one can drive it but him because it is so heavy so another thing is turbo or super charger

TheDivaDanielle

If he's looking to just run in the area of stock GT's based on his goals, I don't think he needs to touch the driveline at all, short of changing the driveshaft, seeing that it's the same transmission and rear that's in the GT, I don't see those breaking any time soon. Just toss the turbo on and go.

Don't worry about RazorGT, he prattled on about how great he was, and I suck and that his girlfriend has a GT500 and is a vampire, eeer lawyer.

808muscle

If your goal is to run 12's at the track then buy some drag radials. Doing it on street tires is very difficult and frustrating. When my car was just a mid 13 car it would spin hard. With drag radials it's so much easier to get quicker times and so much safer too. The only way to get better at the track is to go a lot. So prepare yourself for lots of seat time.

AK_Kayaker

Between turbo or supercharger, I would say go turbo, but don't be lured into ones that are too big, stay as small as possible to avoid lag, kind of like an ecoboost.

danzcool

I don't know how heavy the spec 3 clutch is, but I do know that the McLeod RXT is as light as the stock clutch.
The type of forced induction is pretty much personal preference. Positive displacement superchargers have torque off the line and an intoxicating whine when you're on it. Centrifugal superchargers and turbos make their power on the high end. Centrifugal superchargers are probably the easiest to install. A twin screw or tvs probably looks the most impressive under the hood and a turbo is just cool.

pkugrsq

Man, I wish I had all that money to do everything. Sucks I'm no longer working to support such spending! You can do research and you can add horsepower and torque and all the good stuff.

But a friend once told me that you can upgrade your car with power, but the driveline is most important, because that two piece ****shaft isn't going to hold up. Also, you may want to consider a better shifter bracket, get that crunchy feeling out of the way, and remove any possibility of missed shifts and messing up your clutch.

Also, seeing as you're new. I think you should buy some floor jacks and jack stands and do some of this work yourself and save yourself a couple hundred bucks down the road.

Any place is good to start at. It's just preferably to upgrade the whole system at the same time.
For example, you do the springs, while you do the struts, shocks, lca, panhard bar, and wheels.
Or if you do intake, you increase back pressure, so you change out the exhaust, decreasing it again.
Or even Aesthetics... but who needs that right now?