Install headers myself or pay for it?
04-09-2014, 08:36 AM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Clearwater FL
Posts: 608
Install headers myself or pay for it?
So I've been doing some work to the stang recently, some of you may notice my frustrated posts. Anyway, its time for headers. I just got my stainless works long tubes and x pipe in the mail, and I'm debating whether I want to install them myself or not. I have two friends who can help out, but we are all dreading it. I got an estimate at a shop for $575 for the install. The instructions make it seem so easy, but I know its a pain in the butt. I also don't have a lift available, just jacks and jack stands. So, for those of you who have done this before, what do you suggest?
04-09-2014, 09:36 AM
#3
If you don't have a lift, it's a pain in the butt to do.
It really helps to have all the right tools also. It took my mechanic friend a few hours to install them. Didn't help that it was 100* degrees that day either
Nick C.
It really helps to have all the right tools also. It took my mechanic friend a few hours to install them. Didn't help that it was 100* degrees that day either
Nick C.
04-09-2014, 10:07 AM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Clearwater FL
Posts: 608
I installed and removed mine using only jackstands in my garage.
Other than general hand tools and an impact, is there anything special I need?
04-09-2014, 10:15 AM
#6
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 2,952
I think it took around 7hrs to install only because I took my time and didnt want to force anything. It took about 3hrs to remove them and I think I cound reinstall everything in about 3-4hrs again
I think to do everything I used only 3 or 4 sockets with a 3/8 drive ratcket.
I had to raise the engine off the mounts and remove the steering shaft to install mine.
I dont think a lift would of helped any either as you have to do some of the work from the top. A second pair of hands is very helpful to hold them up while starting the bolts, though.
I think to do everything I used only 3 or 4 sockets with a 3/8 drive ratcket.
I had to raise the engine off the mounts and remove the steering shaft to install mine.
I dont think a lift would of helped any either as you have to do some of the work from the top. A second pair of hands is very helpful to hold them up while starting the bolts, though.
04-09-2014, 11:04 AM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WV
Posts: 750
I did mine by myself with the car on jackstands as well.
Now, I can't say as well how long it took because I would do a couple hours here, a couple hours there, as time allowed while the car was parked for the winter anyway.
With help I'm sure you could get it done in a weekend. The hardest part of it all is removing the old stuff. The original studs and nuts can sometimes be a pain (and sometimes have to soak in PB Blaster for awhile), and on mine the dipstick tube refused to come out, I ended up mangling it with vise grips and just ordered a new one.
Once all the old crap out the only hard part is squeezing your hand in some areas to tighten bolts. I'm a big guy with big hands and I was still able to do it, so anyone should.
FYI ratcheting wrenches, especially the flex head type, are your friends for this job, as well as stubbies, and extra long regular box end wrenches (for final tightening). You might also consider investing in locking header bolts so you don't have to worry about them backing out. Stage 8's are like $55 a set, and despite how they look the tabs and clips are actually not THAT hard to get on once everything is in the car. Also FYI they have a 7/16" bolt head on them, no idea why.
Now, I can't say as well how long it took because I would do a couple hours here, a couple hours there, as time allowed while the car was parked for the winter anyway.
With help I'm sure you could get it done in a weekend. The hardest part of it all is removing the old stuff. The original studs and nuts can sometimes be a pain (and sometimes have to soak in PB Blaster for awhile), and on mine the dipstick tube refused to come out, I ended up mangling it with vise grips and just ordered a new one.
Once all the old crap out the only hard part is squeezing your hand in some areas to tighten bolts. I'm a big guy with big hands and I was still able to do it, so anyone should.
FYI ratcheting wrenches, especially the flex head type, are your friends for this job, as well as stubbies, and extra long regular box end wrenches (for final tightening). You might also consider investing in locking header bolts so you don't have to worry about them backing out. Stage 8's are like $55 a set, and despite how they look the tabs and clips are actually not THAT hard to get on once everything is in the car. Also FYI they have a 7/16" bolt head on them, no idea why.
04-09-2014, 11:20 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Clearwater FL
Posts: 608
$575 is an axleback to go with them.. just sayin.
I think it took around 7hrs to install only because I took my time and didnt want to force anything. It took about 3hrs to remove them and I think I cound reinstall everything in about 3-4hrs again
I think to do everything I used only 3 or 4 sockets with a 3/8 drive ratcket.
I had to raise the engine off the mounts and remove the steering shaft to install mine.
I dont think a lift would of helped any either as you have to do some of the work from the top. A second pair of hands is very helpful to hold them up while starting the bolts, though.
I think to do everything I used only 3 or 4 sockets with a 3/8 drive ratcket.
I had to raise the engine off the mounts and remove the steering shaft to install mine.
I dont think a lift would of helped any either as you have to do some of the work from the top. A second pair of hands is very helpful to hold them up while starting the bolts, though.
Well, that makes it sound easier. I'll have some friends helping so hopefully that would help.
I did mine by myself with the car on jackstands as well.
Now, I can't say as well how long it took because I would do a couple hours here, a couple hours there, as time allowed while the car was parked for the winter anyway.
With help I'm sure you could get it done in a weekend. The hardest part of it all is removing the old stuff. The original studs and nuts can sometimes be a pain (and sometimes have to soak in PB Blaster for awhile), and on mine the dipstick tube refused to come out, I ended up mangling it with vise grips and just ordered a new one.
Once all the old crap out the only hard part is squeezing your hand in some areas to tighten bolts. I'm a big guy with big hands and I was still able to do it, so anyone should.
FYI ratcheting wrenches, especially the flex head type, are your friends for this job, as well as stubbies, and extra long regular box end wrenches (for final tightening). You might also consider investing in locking header bolts so you don't have to worry about them backing out. Stage 8's are like $55 a set, and despite how they look the tabs and clips are actually not THAT hard to get on once everything is in the car. Also FYI they have a 7/16" bolt head on them, no idea why.
Now, I can't say as well how long it took because I would do a couple hours here, a couple hours there, as time allowed while the car was parked for the winter anyway.
With help I'm sure you could get it done in a weekend. The hardest part of it all is removing the old stuff. The original studs and nuts can sometimes be a pain (and sometimes have to soak in PB Blaster for awhile), and on mine the dipstick tube refused to come out, I ended up mangling it with vise grips and just ordered a new one.
Once all the old crap out the only hard part is squeezing your hand in some areas to tighten bolts. I'm a big guy with big hands and I was still able to do it, so anyone should.
FYI ratcheting wrenches, especially the flex head type, are your friends for this job, as well as stubbies, and extra long regular box end wrenches (for final tightening). You might also consider investing in locking header bolts so you don't have to worry about them backing out. Stage 8's are like $55 a set, and despite how they look the tabs and clips are actually not THAT hard to get on once everything is in the car. Also FYI they have a 7/16" bolt head on them, no idea why.
04-09-2014, 12:48 PM
#9
If you take your time and clear your schedule for a full day, you'll find the install is very doable for the average home mechanic. There's no doubt it will be a pain, but it's only so difficult. In fact, I here's a full install guide for the BBK LT headers, which install the same as any LT header. It may help clear up any confusion you may still have.
Plus think about all the money you'll be saving by doing the install with a few buddies!
Shane
Plus think about all the money you'll be saving by doing the install with a few buddies!
Shane
04-09-2014, 03:09 PM
#10
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WV
Posts: 750
Only bad thing is that the best deals on ratcheting wrenches is usually around christmas, that's when I bought all mine. The only ones I don't have is a set of standard sized regular ratcheting wrenches, otherwise I have both flex head and stubby in both standard and metric.
You REALLY only need the ratcheting wrenches for about 6 or 7 of the bolts...the rest have enough room you can put them in with a ratchet if you want to.
Feel free to PM me if you decide to tackle it yourself and have any other questions...I installed mine last year and then took them out and put them back in this year so I'm pretty well versed in the process at this point!