You have to get some real LCAs first of all, stock ones are a joke. Second, nitto555r drag radials. It's the best daily driver DR out there. Grips great on the street, works well on wet roads and can last up to 15k. I run the 305s with 430 rwhp. If you lower the car you better get bmr Relos too. They are a must have for planting power on a lowered car.

 

I think your best investment would be in some good tires. Stock ones, no matter how they are sold can always been outdone by the aftermarket.

Ford is looking for the dollar sign behind that summer performance tire.

I would suggest the Nittos, excellent time in my oppion

 

This is what I drive daily. 305/45/18s. The car has around 540 rwhp and hooks in every gear. In first, I have to be a little easy on how fast I give it full throttle.

I do not get anywhere near 15k out of a set. But my DD is pretty spirited and not too much highway driving.

Wider tires are good. Softer compound is better. Height makes a very big difference as it changes the footprint of the tire and give it more of footprint than people think.

The answer is:

Driver mod
better tires
Suspension upgrades

In that order.

 

Since when does height affect the footprint of a tire? unless footprint doesn't mean contact patch? If not, define footprint please cos I agree with everything except for that comment.

 

The taller a tire is, the more footprint or contact patch it will have. By basically making the tire bigger around and lengthening the contact patch. I said height reffering to how tall the tire is. I think height is an inapropriate word to use.

Sometimes just increasing the width of a tire will decrease contact patch from being circular to being very oblong, side to side, therefore decreasing the actual contact patch.

A lot of people associate the width of a tire as having the most affect on how much of the tire is in contact with the ground. It is partially true that the wider the tire, the more tire hits the road. But how tall a tire is has a huge bearing on how much of the tire is touching. Probably more so than width.

 

Never thought of it this way...

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=10

Anyways, you learned me something new Simon1, thanks

 

I seem to recall that it's not the size of the footprint that will change with tire diameter changes (or tire width changes for that matter) ....
.... but rather that it is the shape of that footprint that will change with tire diameter due to the resultant change in radius at the tread (longer but narrower vs shorter but wider) ....
.... and it's the shape of any tread segments that determines the stability of individual tread segments and it's the rubber composition and roadway composition and any friction modifiers (grease, oil, water, snow, ice, temperature, etc) that determine the coefficient of friction ....
.... and it is the weight pressing down on a tire (suspension design can be used to increase or decrease weight via "reaction" to sudden applications of "power", etc.) versus the inflation pressure that determines the area of the contact area (including any grooves of sufficient depth as to avoid contact) as a whole ....
.... and all this together combined determines what traction is available at any instant.

 

As the tire tread passes through contact with the pavement, the tire's cross section shape changes. This results in a little circumferential compression of the tread on the leading edge of contact and relaxation back to the "unloaded shape" at the trailing edge. Given similar amounts of tire radial compression this squirm would occupy a relatively greater portion of a short wide contact patch than of a long narrow one. Sounds like short wide contact patches would suffer more straight line traction loss to me.

One effect among many though . . .


Quick and dirty 2nd gear math . . . 300 ft-lbs x 2.43 x 3.73 x 2 x 12 / 27" = 2417 lbs. You'd need to have about 2417/3900 = 62% rear weight % with 1g-capable tires (which would include about 10% - 12% from "weight transfer", meaning no worse than 48% static rear weight). So under ideal conditions, you're on the wrong side of the edge of traction already, and before you're at WOT/max torque. Then you have a little tire bouncing over minute road roughness and some loss of traction from that . . . call this a really long explanation for why the driver mod is essential here.


Norm

 

Yep, sounds like the cure.

 

These control arms will completely eliminate wheel hop.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...-mount-11.html
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ushing-05.html

And if you add sticky tires to those, the car will dead hook first gear on the street. I can say that from experience because I run those same arms on my 2011 with over 700rwhp and the car dead hooks on 305/35-19 drag radials.