Hey Guys,

My hood is corroding again. This will be the 3rd time I have to repaint it. 3 different shops. So I want to replace the hoods to fiberglass. I could go CF, but I don't want to spend that kind of money. (2006 v6 mustang)
I am going to replace it with as close to oem as possible. You can see the links below.

Questions:
1.) One of the sites says that hood pins are needed for fiberglass hoods. Recommend by manufacturer of the hood. Is that a CYA thing or are our cars so boxy that the hood isn't' stiff enough to prevent bending driving down the road at 85 and only be latched by the standard center latch? i don't want hood pins.

2.) Has anyone bought hoods from the sites listed? (I am sure of American Muscle. I am more asking for the first two. They are the cheapest and first ones comes painted)
https://www.paintedautobodyparts.com...-product-view1
https://www.carid.com/2006-ford-must...924597840.html
https://www.americanmuscle.com/cervi...hood-0509.html

Thanks.

 

I looked into the painted body parts site when sourcing parts to repair my mustang after a collision. Do a search on the painted body parts site reviews. They're all either obviously bogus or bad. I would stay far far away! Id rather have a good hood that is peeling than a crappy hood with horrible paint! I ended up getting a used hood and having it painted. I know it will likely start to peel again but at least it is a properly fitting part and the paint on it is overall decent.

 

I don't want to waste money to keep repainting a part that shouldn't need it in the first place. This is not acceptable. I want to fix the issue, not put a band-aide on it. Hopefully someone can at least answer the hood pin question. Surely someone out there has put a fireglass hood on.

 

I hope you find a quality part. My point was more that you want it to be an improvement over what you have now, not something worse. Good luck.

 

Pealing paint is due to the process not being done correctly. This, also because
EPA regulations on painting chemicals you can't use anymore...

Hood pins may be needed with the fiberglass because the striker is set in the
fiberglass, and is not as strong as in a metal hood, with the metal striker assembly
fastened to the metal. The hood pins will keep the hood closed should the striker
tear from the body of the hood. Better to be safe than sorry... The only metal
parts in the fiberglass hood are the mounting holes for the arms, and the striker
assembly.

 

Don't blame the body shops for the factory corroding issues...
It was contaminated at the plant when those hoods were pressed together. Ford still has that issue by the way.
If you go fiberglass, Cervini is the best quality both in fit and straightness. You might get a bad apple once in a while but I had good success with them.
The key with fiberglass is that you have to have a good thickness of gelcoat in order to block sand the part without going through and expose the fiber.
Most brands fail at this so beware.
Lastly, the weight difference between your factory aluminum hood and a quality fiberglass one is almost double so keep that in mind if that matters to you.

 

Not really concerned with the weight. I would consider a steel hood if i could find it. I don't race it. Its general use car and will be a backup/kids car in the future. Need to keep it from looking like garbage and don't want to repaint it every 3 years. One expense - replace it with something else.

 

They used to actually make a steel aftermarket hood for the 05/09 cars but it could have ceased production since that body style is now 10 years old.
Google that or check with your local shop. Keystone is an aftermarket company used in stock reproduction parts for collision repair.
Expect that hood to be at least $300 if you find one.

 

I had the same problem - bought a bug guard (from American Muscle) to try and cover it but it fit so bad I didn't use it as the metal attachments had it standing off the hood so far it looked ridiculous. After checking around I decided to try attaching the bug guard using 3M body molding tape and that lasted for about 3 years until I got hit and insurance bought a new hood ($1400.00 by the way). It didn't look too bad and I actually got a few compliments on how it looked as it blacked out the front edge of the hood. I looked into a fiberglass hood but the body shop I went too said most took so much labor to make them match the body it wasn't worth it.

 

I replaced my hood with eleanor hood. I had the body shop paint it. It was 1200 7 years ago. They blend in the paint on the fenders as well. Any good shop should tell you that. You can see my hood in my sig. They did a good job

I believe the hoods was 500 but i can't remember