Yes, the EPA changed the way cars are painted, the chemicals they used to use, they
can no longer use. Still, I also read that the metal itself is contaminated, it is not the paint
process.

Another claim said Ford used aluminum hoods but failed to properly insulate them from “old iron-
based connecting and supporting parts,” despite knowing that “would give rise to galvanic coupling”
and corrosion.

In 2004 the manufacturer sent dealers a technical service bulletin (TSB) about bubbling and blistering
under the paint on aluminum body panels due to “iron contamination of the aluminum panel”. They
claimed ignorance, and responsibility, but sent out a TSB. The TSB goes on to say that “testing has
revealed that the aluminum corrosion was caused by iron particles working their way into the aluminum
body part, prior to it being painted.”

A class action law suit was filed in new Jersey, but only covers 2000-2007 Ford cars with aluminum
hoods. A judge allowed the suit to continue in 2013. Don't know where this one went, but they
beat another one that was filed for 2005-2014 models ( Mark Solomon and Williams Mickens). The
judge said that had the plaintiffs taken Ford to court over breach of warranty contract, they may have
had a better case. They said, gist of it is, Ford probably didn’t test its aluminum hoods as well as it should
have…but it’s probably not going to hurt the value of your Mustang much, if at all. One of the plaintiffs
traded their '06 Mustang GT at $450 above NADA, so that's where that comes from.

This is a problem with more than just the Mustang, it's ALL their vehicles with aluminum hoods.

 

I never really saw anyone answer your question (that being said, I was skimming the responses, so my apologies if someone did), so I figured I'd throw in my $0.02.

I changed hoods because I converted my stock GT front end to a GT500 one, and then added a trufiber hood to finish it off. From my experience, I need my hood pins and wouldnt run without them. The hood I bought thru trufiber (2007-2009 Mustang GT500 Fiberglass A53KR Ram Air Hood) has circle holes for my hood pins anyway, so if I didnt install them it would have looked stupid. Still, I know firsthand that when I'm out on the highway running 70 or higher, I can see my hood 'float' if I dont have the pins tight. Not that it will come loose and flip open, but when I've driven it at highway speeds with them unintentionally loose, I can absolutely tell a difference how the hood reacts verses when they are clipped in (and yes, thats with adjustments to the black 'spacer' deals in the engine compartment that the hood rests on) that keep the hood tight to the car. When I'm just running around town, if I don't have them latched, its no big deal at all.

If you have already got your hood or are still considering it, be forewarned that if you have or plan to switch over to shocks to hold your hood up when doing something (engine work, detailing engine, car show, etc), you cant run the typical hood shocks. If you do, when your hood is closed, it will bulge where the shocks connect to the hood and eventually will damage the hood. And just like before, it will be the same circumstances when getting it painted and installed, just like the stock hood....prep is key. I'd make sure you have 100% faith in the painter and their quality of work. I'm all about saving money where possible, but I never hesitated to go to whom I considered the best at the time to do the paint work despite their prices verses others, and have zero regrets this much later. Quality of work speaks volumes, especially over time.

Despite having my Trufiber one painted and installed now for close to 10 or more years. The hood still looks phenomenal on the car and I couldnt be any happier. That being said, even now, 13 years after buying my mustang (I still only have around 28k on the odometer), mine is always garaged and never sees snow or rain other then when I open the garage door and it blows some on it. I have no idea how a fiberglass hood would stand up to 24/7 outside and exposed to the weather.

 

I honestly don't think hood pins are all that necessary. My hood floats up at times. I always check the latch. I had hood shocks installed and I have not experienced what he describes. Im sure some have. This really all comes down to personal preference. The hood pins and which hood to get. The blending of paint is what matters most in this project as well as the painters ability.

 

When I was looking to replace mine the all steel hood was available. I just wasn't ready at that time. When the time came the steel hood vanished. So I settled for Cervini Painted Cobra R hood. The first hood arrived with paint damaged by the carrier right in front of my eyes. I told the driver I won't accept the hood. Keep in mind you will be waiting at least 1 month for a painted hood. The second one arrived with out a hitch, fit and paint match was spot on. I don't have hood pins and I don't see any hood flutter.