2005-2014 Mustangs Discussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.

SHAKER HELP NEEDED

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 12, 2020 | 09:57 AM
  #1  
Brandon197's Avatar
Brandon197
Thread Starter
 
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 13
From: Maryland
Default SHAKER HELP NEEDED

So... I’m aware of the Shaker issues and such but I can’t find someone with a duplicate problem.... lucky me. SO!

2014 5.0 with all the goodies. I bought the car with 14,7xx on the dash and my issue is the driver door audio..... the door speaker and sub barely work.

I’ve swapped speakers, the good set from the passenger side did not work and the driver side worked on the passenger.... so speakers are good...

Key in Ignition on both sides get 5.9V at the speaker and I can’t see any obvious wire issues in the door panel or the rubber boot in the jam.... pulled the amp from the footwell and my test light lit up 11.9V on the red wire on the white connector and 4.8-5.9v on all the little wires in the connectors...

Here’s the weird part... if you balance all audio to the front left (where the issue is) and turn the radio to max volume you can hear it... but it’s very very faint.....

im starting to think my head unit is busted....
Old Jan 13, 2020 | 12:47 PM
  #2  
Derf00's Avatar
Derf00
Gentleman's Relish
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
Default

When you did you testing, were all of the head unit DSP functions turned off (Set it to for ALL) ? The DSP settings in the head unit delay or lower sound coming out from one speaker vs another so that all audio reaches the intended passengers as desired.
For example, if you set the audio DSP to Driver, the drivers side front speakers are lowered in volume while also delayed a bit.

A way to troubleshoot the head-unit. It might require some temporary splicing.

Swap the output wires from the rear of the head unit between the driver and passenger side. If the problem doesn't follow, this would be an alternate way to confirm its a wiring problem. If the problem follows the change in wires where your passenger side is now not working but the drivers side is ok, then you know it's a head unit issue or an amp issue.

How many amplifiers does your system have?
Old Jan 13, 2020 | 01:49 PM
  #3  
Brandon197's Avatar
Brandon197
Thread Starter
 
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 13
From: Maryland
Default

So... you’re saying to plug the driver side speaker wires to the passenger and vice versa? And it’s weird... cause if you switch between driver seat and all seats the audio mutes but you can hear it slightly through the driver side.

As for amps... I only see the one in the driver footwell. Some people say there’s 2 down there but I only see one. Also related to the amp(s) it has 3 connector ports... 2 big ones and the little one in the middle but there’s nothing plugged into the middle... don’t know if it’s important but this issue has been bothering me ever since I bought the car and I’ve hit a dead end
Old Jan 17, 2020 | 01:06 PM
  #4  
Derf00's Avatar
Derf00
Gentleman's Relish
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
Default

Originally Posted by Brandon197
So... you’re saying to plug the driver side speaker wires to the passenger and vice versa? And it’s weird... cause if you switch between driver seat and all seats the audio mutes but you can hear it slightly through the driver side.

As for amps... I only see the one in the driver footwell. Some people say there’s 2 down there but I only see one. Also related to the amp(s) it has 3 connector ports... 2 big ones and the little one in the middle but there’s nothing plugged into the middle... don’t know if it’s important but this issue has been bothering me ever since I bought the car and I’ve hit a dead end
Yes.

For the amp, one port is the power and input wires from the head unit. The second port are the wires going to your speakers. The third port would be the pass through for a second amp that would run a factory optioned SUB. That amp would be in the trunk with the SUB. My guess is you do not have a sub?
Old Jan 17, 2020 | 02:00 PM
  #5  
Brandon197's Avatar
Brandon197
Thread Starter
 
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 13
From: Maryland
Default

Just the 8” subs in the doors, I ordered another factory amp in “good used condition” so hopefully it fixes it. The only other things I can think of would be the head unit itself
Old Jan 17, 2020 | 10:14 PM
  #6  
Derf00's Avatar
Derf00
Gentleman's Relish
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
Default

You should have tried troubleshooting first. If the amp fixes it great, if not, back to square one.
Old Jan 18, 2020 | 01:05 PM
  #7  
Brandon197's Avatar
Brandon197
Thread Starter
 
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 13
From: Maryland
Default

I did a load of diag on the car.... but my first thought was a amp so I was gonna buy it until I crossed off other stuff like wires and speakers.....
Old Jan 18, 2020 | 03:46 PM
  #8  
Brandon197's Avatar
Brandon197
Thread Starter
 
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 13
From: Maryland
Default

The amp arrived today.... plugged it in.... overall audio quality sounds better... barely any sound from driver door still.... what the hell dude... the head unit has to have an issue... this is the weirdest audio problem I’ve ever encountered.
Old Jan 20, 2020 | 01:12 PM
  #9  
Derf00's Avatar
Derf00
Gentleman's Relish
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
Default

Swap the left/right front channels from the head unit like I mentioned in the first place. If the problem is now on the passenger side, then you know it's most likely a head unit issue.....
Old Jan 20, 2020 | 04:46 PM
  #10  
Brandon197's Avatar
Brandon197
Thread Starter
 
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 13
From: Maryland
Default

CONFIRMED, head unit has an issue. I unplugged the sync unit, removed the raxiom harness, plugged the factory stuff back in so the OEM single din was functional and sound is currently coming from all speakers. Son of bitch.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:13 AM.