The Ghost

I have a Q. I was looking at the Egg mounts by Steeda and was just thinking (oh boy here we go again) Why cant i just install a Nylon limiting strap to transfer engine tourqe to the frame instead of the mounts. I actually have a cable with a small turnbuckle on my 65' stang so that when I hit the strip I can tighten it to eliminate engine twist, but can loosen it a little on the road.

NuStang

Excuse me for not knowing but after reading about the motor mounts I started calling be I have the Hooker LT headers sitting in my garage. So far, not to contradict anyone, no one has said that they mounts needed to change. They responses I got was that they didn't add clearance but yet support for increase horsepower. PLease, please show me the light!!!!

spyder7724

i have hooker l/t's and you are correct that no where does hooker tell you they are needed but i can assure you they are necessary. the problem i had was in making a right hand turn the engine shifted and put a lot of pressure on the steering shaft making steering very hard. the first time it happened i though i forgot to tighten the steering shaft after installing the headers but that wasn't the case. if you don't mind the steering locking up on you in the middle of a corner i guess they aren't necessary but if you are like me and want to keep your car straight and shiny i'd put them in. oh and check your box for the O2 extensions. they didn't put mine in the box and it took me 3weeks to get them from hooker.

NuStang

Thanks Spyder! So where did you get your mounts from? I called a local dealer and the price was 169.00. I was really looking forward to putting on the headers this weekend but again I guess it will be delayed. I really appreciate the heads up so if you can me the whole skinny on the install I would be greatly appreciative i.e. is there a certain mount I should or shouldn't buy.

spyder7724

i used the prothane mounts. they are a billet aluminum mount with urethane inserts. really nice quality. ebay for about $100. a couple tools that will be helpful: 13mm gear wrench and 5mm socket. the new header bolts are a real pain to get to without taking the mount bracket off the block. i didn't and it took me about an hour or so to get them all tight. and make sure you get them all tight cause they will leak if not. nothing sounds worse than a header leak...except a hyundai with 6" exhaust. you will need to take the starter off and if you plan on using the stock h pipe you can order some new clamps from a ford dealer to connect the hpipe to the headers. i used the same style clamps that the axle pipe has on it. looks factory and doesn't crush the header or need to expand the h pipe. you will need to cut the hpipe 4" in front of the hanger bracket. oh and make sure they gave you the o2 harnesses and gaskets/bolts. sometimes they forget that stuff. i didn't get the extension harnesses for the O2 sensors. took 2-3weeks to get them. you may need some help to hold the header up in the car while you start the bolts. i was by myself so i left 2 old studs in the head and then started a few bolts then removed the studs and replaced with the new bolts. be patient and don't get too frustrated some of the stuff is a PITA.

eviloxide

Well, I just finished installing my LTs and mounts. spyder you weren't lieing the mounts where nothing once i knew to lift the engine from the pully. It was a fun project just because I ran the car a bit with open headers and the tailpipes were shooting flames. So all in all I'm happy with everything.

NuStang

Question does anyone know what is the better product Steeda 278.00 or the prothane 110.00. I know that more money doesn't mean better but right now I was wondering because of vibration concerns. A Steeda rep said.... I know, I know "hardly notice the difference from stock to aftermarket mounts." What is you guys take being that you have a different product?

spyder7724

the prothane mounts will let you feel more of the engine vibration. it's not bad at all but compared to those super spongy stock mounts it's a big change i like it. but then i'm used to running cars with solid motor plates with no absorbing material for vibration. compared to my roadster and dragster this thing is smooth. i couldn't justify steeda's price when the prothane mounts are such good quality for a great price.

NuStang

Spyder are you planning on installing the TCI3800 or do you already have it. The onle one I have seen was the TCI3000

spyder7724

i have had it in for over a month now. it's awesome! i highly reccomend one. mine is a custom stall speed. the standard street fighter is 3000rpms. mine may actually be closer to 4000 but i knew if i put that in my sig people would freak out and say it's too much. these engines make peak torque anywhere from 3500-4800 depending on mods and tune. coming from a racing background i have lots of experience with stall converters and was not scared to bump it up a notch or two. i just got mine dyno'd and put down 281hp and 322tq on a mustang dyno. thats equivelant to about 310-320hp and 350-365 torque on a dyno jet. the converter makes a ton more torque at the wheels but won't dyno well for hp. you won't lose it it just doesn't measure well with a high stall converter on a dyno. night and day difference!