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Lowering the right way...?

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Old May 29, 2010 | 01:42 AM
  #1  
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Default Lowering the right way...?

I am wanting to lower my stock 2010 Mustang GT. From what I have been reading, it isn’t as easy as just swapping the springs. Some sites advise you need to change the caster camber plates. There are other sites that advise you need to change the shocks and struts. Why can’t anything be easy anymore I don’t want any alignment or related issues down the road related to this modification, but I want to do it the right way. What is the correct way to do this job?
Old May 29, 2010 | 08:12 AM
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I'm sure everyone will have their own opinion as to what is the "right" way, mine is the following:

Lowering Springs
Replacing the stock struts & shocks with a new aftermarket set (many choices)
Caster Camber Plates (many, including myself, use camber bolts)
Adjustable Panhard Bar (I really like BMR, part #PHR006)
Get an alignment
Old May 29, 2010 | 08:39 AM
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I agree with Cameron here.
I just bypass the caster/camber plates with a rat file and elbow grease.
Lot cheaper.

Old May 29, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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I just put the Steeda sport springs on my 2010 GT little over a week ago..I used the factory shocks with it still and it still rides nice to me. Sure it might handle a little better if I got proper dampening kit with it. But I dont race the car and all I do is cruise around so it works for me. Also I did not use any camber plates or anything and when I got it aligned they told me the camber was just a tad out and they had no problems adjusting it.
Old May 29, 2010 | 04:07 PM
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yeah it depends on the amount of the drop.

ill be getting the steeda sport springs and leaving everything else as is and gonna get it aligned after it settles.
Old May 29, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by iceguyb14
yeah it depends on the amount of the drop.

ill be getting the steeda sport springs and leaving everything else as is and gonna get it aligned after it settles.
Steeda Sport is the 1-inch front and 1.25-inch rear drop, right? I think I'm getting that too. Leaving everything else stock (struts, shocks) is okay? What about panhard bar?
Old May 29, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by m0nkeydump
Steeda Sport is the 1-inch front and 1.25-inch rear drop, right? I think I'm getting that too. Leaving everything else stock (struts, shocks) is okay? What about panhard bar?
after you lower the car, check the distance between the driver's side rear wheel and the fender and the passenger's side rear wheel and the fender....chances are, your rear axle will have kicked out towards the driver's side just a hair, requiring you to recenter things with an adjustable panhard bar
Old May 29, 2010 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pascal
I agree with Cameron here.
I just bypass the caster/camber plates with a rat file and elbow grease.
Lot cheaper.

The clamping force alone isn't enough to keep things in place like you've done. A few good pot holes or some spirited driving and you'll need an alignment...again.
There's a reason for the off set camber bolts.
Old May 29, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by steelcomp
The clamping force alone isn't enough to keep things in place like you've done. A few good pot holes or some spirited driving and you'll need an alignment...again.
There's a reason for the off set camber bolts.
Works for me after 3 years with occasional pot holes and trips to Arkansas from FL.
Lots of spirited driving around Eureka Springs as well.

I don't deny what you're saying but in daily driving for the average driver, it's a cheap alternative that works.
Old May 31, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by pascal
Works for me after 3 years with occasional pot holes and trips to Arkansas from FL.
Lots of spirited driving around Eureka Springs as well.

I don't deny what you're saying but in daily driving for the average driver, it's a cheap alternative that works.
Camber bolts aren't exactly expensive. It's funny...you spend thousands on useless cosmetics, yet you think "cheap" is OK for something like a suspension mod.
Heeere's yer sign.



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