Okay, so I've been looking into building a 351 fox, and I want some input. I'm looking for about 350 HP to the ground. This should be pretty easy, I'm trying not to run a high comp ratio because I'm thinking about boosting this in the future. Basically, I'm gonna get a kit, have the block bored .030 over(357 right?) The crank, block, and rods should be good to about 600 hp right? Then I need to get all the stuff to put it into a fox, headers, oil pan, and such. I have an edelbrock rpm II upper and lower, but I'm gonna need a special lower to use the upper right(deck height and all)? My big thing, is what kind of heads. This is where a lot of money is normally spent. Since I'm not really looking at making big HP, what options do I have as far as heads go. I plan on using some sort of factory head, prolly doing a valve job(maybe even bigger valves) and then gettin a custom cam to fit the motor. It's gonna be EFI, so im guessing 36 lb. injectors, and a MAF calibrated for these. I'm hoping I can get all this done for under 2k, everyone think this is reasonable? The main thing is the total cost, and the heads. I'd really dont want anything less that 350 at the ground, is this gonna be possible?

 

Also, was gonna try to use a roller cam, are the conversion kits any good?

 

If you are adding boost later, Use a good head, 8-9:1 compression, and a good internals (NOT stock junk)

I advise you get ATLEAST forged pistons (Forged rods, and crank would be good)

I would say a 200+cc intake runner head! (WindsorSr, vic jr, procomp..... Whatever) USE An Aluminum head if possible. It will dispurt the heat better.

Roller conversion are OK, But not good at all. Try to get the link bar lifters, not the retro fit lifters.

Retro-fit lifters will NEED a small base circle cam if used in a non-roller block (BSC cams are SH*T, They flex A LOT)

Yes, .030" over is 357!

Nik!

Anything else let me know!

 

Keep it a non roller and get a mechanical cam. No needin spending several hundred dollars for a conversion. With mechanical flat tappet you will not experience valve float as often and you have loads of cam choice's. The stock crank is stronger than the block itself. I would would look into replacing the rods and pistons since you plan to boost it later.

 

I was going to buy a kit with forged pistons, I was wondering how strong the crank and rods would be though. I'm in college and all so I'm not gonna have a ton of money to blow on this thing, I know what the best things to do would be, aluminum heads, forged everything, blah blah...but i dont have 5k to dump into this. I need to know what kind of heads I can use that will flow good and get me to my HP goal in my budget.

 

Oh, what are the advantages of a link bar lifter setup. What's the purpose of linking your lifters with a little bar?

 

There is a HUGE cam selection, apposed to the small base circle cams. The small base circle cam has to be used with the retro fit roller kit AKA dog bone setup. With the link bar lifters you use a normanl base circle cam, which is much stronger than the small base circle cam.

ButI would say get a set of windsor Sr. heads. They are not a bad head, and have pretty good pontential!

But the crank is strong, But not to the pistons. be sure to get a set of Forged rods and pistons. they can be founds reasonable cheap. Its worth the reassurance!


I am in high school, and I am building a 408w! being in college is no reason to build it properly. You CAN build it properly, but it will take longer. I am taking the time I need, as I dont like to make/build SH*T! So your choice, But I have a fully forged 408w kit, and I iwll probably get a set of ported windsor Sr. heads also!

 

the roller tappets are linked or use a dog bone setup to prevent the tappets from rotating so the roller part rolls along on the cam. with flat tappets they dont use that setup b/c you want them to rotate so they get an even amount of wear on the surface of the tappet that contacts your cam and that is why the cam on contacts half of the flat tappets so it can cause it to rotate. Its easier to show than explain.

 

Ah okay, I gotcha. I know what you mean by dog bones, I've just never seen a lifter setup with link bars....seems like it would be a lot simpler since you dont have to have the plate to apply tension on the dog bones. Anyone have any HP number of a 351 with a good rebuild, P&P, intake, exhaust and a cam?

 

About 300 HP at the flywheel or 265rwhp -quite common.


The stock intake, heads, and cams are a major holdback.