alecracing

We bought a '95 Mustang with a 351W in it for our students to build into a "Drag Car"

Well, I had the students pull the 351W out

Compression and leakdown were good except for Cylinder #5 so I figured we would freshen the thing up with new rings and bearings. Found out that the pistons are .040 over, the connecting rod bearings were showing a lot of copper, the cylinder walls look scored, and the crankshaft is grooved on some of the rod journals.

So I was looking into stroking it and found that you can have the crank reground to a 3.7 inch stroke. That and a .060 bore should give me a 383. I don't really like going that big with a bore, but from the looks of the cylinder walls, it's either that or start with a new block since it's already .040 over.

Question is:

Can I use this crankshaft? What do they grind to make it offset? What are the best pistons and rods to use?

and

with a .060 over bore is a power adder going to be a problem?

REMEMBER: this is a RACE ONLY car...no street driving, just strip

AdderMk2

trash the block, and search for a 94+ roller block.

if you are planning on grinding a stock crank to make a stroker crank.. dont

you are just going to weaken it to the point that it will probably snap once the engine gets up and running, and moving the car

wrenchturner75

a 60 over block with a power adder just isnt gonna last long! can you give us more info on your engine build and expectations? if your planning on over 500 hp id highly recommend an aftermarket block to start with, and as far as cutting on a stock crank going 10 under to fix some scoring well thats one thing but for a stroker dont bother, check out some stroker kits. you can get a steel crank,rods and pistons for screaming deals nowadays at most itll need balancing and maybe some slight mods done to bottom of bores to clear some stroker kits. with more info well be glad to help