351 Mustang

351 swap in to 95 gt with gt40p heads

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Old 10-04-2010, 10:11 AM
  #11  
wildcobrar
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Originally Posted by Kozz167
New problem. My headers touch my #4 spark plug. How to fix with out spending big money?
Accell makes header friendly spark plugs that are shorter. You may find they have one for your application. You may be able to use some boot protectors too.

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Old 10-04-2010, 10:17 AM
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Venomantidote95
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yep try the short plugs or buy the required gtp headers, only 2 options!

if they were just gt iron heads they would be exactly the same but u could use ur regular headers with them. the p just pisses u off lol.
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:40 AM
  #13  
Kozz167
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I talked to Accell and they do not have short plugs for the P heads, but they said to try Champion (Yuk, but if it works). I have been talking to header companeys and know one makes headsr for the P heads in a 95 mustang only for the standerd GT40 heads that came on the Cobra R. So I am going to try Champion and if they do not have any than it looks like I will have to do some fab work to that one pipe that touches the plug, and bootys also. Making a tool ( socket ) for the plugs is already in work and not to hard.

When I get every thing together and working I will post it all so a sticky can be made for the SN95 351 with P heads swap, not just the fox swap or standerd gt heads. I will also get some good pics to go along with it.

Thanks all for the help. This is the price one pays to be alittle difrant, but I like the way the E303 and P heads work together with the 351 as far as the HP and TQ numbers look.
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Old 10-05-2010, 02:25 PM
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wildcobrar
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Can you remove the standard 45 degree boot and put a 90 degree boot on the wire/cylinder with the issue to gain the clearance you need?

Joe
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:40 PM
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Kozz167
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Ya I have to put a 90 degree boot on also, but since there is less than a hair of room between the plug and the header the only thing I found that will work is to do just a little fab work to that one header pipe, and only just what I need. I want to do a clean job of it also.
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Old 10-12-2010, 02:00 PM
  #16  
sn95_331_GT_ yellow
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Originally Posted by Kozz167
Thanks all for the help. This is the price one pays to be alittle difrant, but I like the way the E303 and P heads work together with the 351 as far as the HP and TQ numbers look.
what low?... if that engine cracks 320hp at the crank id be surprised...

the 95 Cobra R's had a similar set up and were only 300hp...

a set of TF FAC 190 heads with a little clean up work, a ~.600" lift cam, and at least 10:1 compression would really wake that thing up...

and thats STILL on the small side for something like this. id almost say look into some 225 heads...

not even mentioning dropping that garbage 3.5" crank and putting a 4.00" with a set of 6.200" rods in it...

its gonna be a PITA to put that windsor in your SN...

been there, looked at it, and its honestly not worth it. my half assembled 408, 9.5:1 short block is going in my F150 whenever the 302 decides to give up on life (not looking like anytime soon though... )
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Old 10-13-2010, 12:48 PM
  #17  
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Will see what happens. I will be keeping the 5.0 on the stand in case things go south. I might supper charge it later on in life also. I do like the 351. I had them in my 65 and 69 when I was in school. As far as the numbers go the Cobra R numbers are right were I am looking at. I still drive this to work every day, so high comp not so good and the 5.0 is getting tiered. Some day when I can keep her parked and I dont have to depend on her to get me to work then the numbers will change and I will go all out on her.
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Old 10-16-2010, 04:49 PM
  #18  
sn95_331_GT_ yellow
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Originally Posted by Kozz167
Will see what happens. I will be keeping the 5.0 on the stand in case things go south. I might supper charge it later on in life also. I do like the 351. I had them in my 65 and 69 when I was in school. As far as the numbers go the Cobra R numbers are right were I am looking at. I still drive this to work every day, so high comp not so good and the 5.0 is getting tiered. Some day when I can keep her parked and I dont have to depend on her to get me to work then the numbers will change and I will go all out on her.
i dont understand what the deal is. having a high CR requires 91+ octane, so does bumping a stock 302 to more than 10* base timing. and everyone knows you dont buy these things for gas mileage.

as for the numbers, youre looking at adding around 100lbs to the front of the car so that kind of negates the increase in power.

NO ONE makes parts for an SN 351W swap...

you can make just as much power with a 331/347 combo, use your existing block and be just as reliable.

for less than the price of just the swap parts alone you can get an alum. headed 302 based stroker built and have just as much (if not more thanks to better handling) fun as with a 351W...

IMHO the only reason for a 351W swap is if its some NASTY 408 with 225 heads and a BIGGGGGGG solid roller.

otherwise stick with the 302.

just my .02
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Old 10-23-2010, 02:47 PM
  #19  
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The fox stuff for the 351w swap works in a SN95 until you decide you want long tube headers. The extra torque is worth the extra weight.
I dyno'd my 95 GT that has a 100K mile lightning motor in it with the only mod being an E-cam and hooker swap headers (shorties). 290 RWHP. No bad with the stock tune in the T4MO computer and 19lbs injectors.
On a stoke displacement 351w large heads are overkill. You need alot more displacement for them to work right. It will be a mutt unless you run alot of compression or boost.
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:04 AM
  #20  
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That is what I was looking for S31R13. It looks like the only difference that I have from your build it the GT40P heads from you lightning GT40 heads so not much different, really just the strait plug and I have already fixed the problem with that. So how well did the E303 cam run at upper RPM on the 19LBS injectors? I was going to upgrade to 24lbs and do a SCT tune through American Muscle until I get something better for a tuner down the line. This Engine will be fresh from the ground up. I had to get the rotating assembly ground and balanced, and it was balanced within .5 grams on damper from 672 grams, and .1 grams on fly wheel from 117 grams. The main reason I had to do this is when I got the short block that had 3,000m on it I popped the oil pan off and first found a chunk of mettle flaking off of a counter weight on the crank and then I popped the main caps and there was grooving. Well any way sorry for the long post, and I am working on moving or taking some weight off the front to help with the extra 100 on the front end.
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