Installing a T-lok... easy?
05-12-2009, 03:18 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location:
Posts: 27
Installing a T-lok... easy?
So after a year and a half, I've grown tired of the one-tire burnout. I know that installing a T-lok is the way to correct this issue, but I was wondering if it was something a guy could do on his own without a garage full of tools and a lift, or if I would be better off throwing my money at a mechanic.
And on the same subject, if I were to also want to upgrade to 4.10 gears, it seems there might be some extra parts I would need to buy... would I just be better buying a GT Rear Axle assembly and having that installed instead?
I'm relatively mechanically inclined, but instead of just trying to figure it out on my own, I thought I'd try asking for instructions first, versus finishing the project with a handful of leftover parts.
Thanks!
And on the same subject, if I were to also want to upgrade to 4.10 gears, it seems there might be some extra parts I would need to buy... would I just be better buying a GT Rear Axle assembly and having that installed instead?
I'm relatively mechanically inclined, but instead of just trying to figure it out on my own, I thought I'd try asking for instructions first, versus finishing the project with a handful of leftover parts.
Thanks!
05-12-2009, 09:56 AM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,388
Do a search on here for gear installs. There's a lot of posts about them.
A tloc swap can be as simple as just needing a press to press on new carrier bearings (on the ends of the tloc). It also helps to have a dial gauge to check for proper backlash, and if needed, having shims to adjust the backlash.
Otherwise just the tloc swap is something you could handle.
When it comes to the entire gear job, that gets a bit more tricky and requires a few more tools.
If you are considering a gear swap, just do both at the same time, and have a local reputable shop install both the gears and tloc at the same time; that's the best way to go!
As far as other parts, a gear install kit is needed (with new bearings, etc.).
Oh yeah, it makes driving more fun
A tloc swap can be as simple as just needing a press to press on new carrier bearings (on the ends of the tloc). It also helps to have a dial gauge to check for proper backlash, and if needed, having shims to adjust the backlash.
Otherwise just the tloc swap is something you could handle.
When it comes to the entire gear job, that gets a bit more tricky and requires a few more tools.
If you are considering a gear swap, just do both at the same time, and have a local reputable shop install both the gears and tloc at the same time; that's the best way to go!
As far as other parts, a gear install kit is needed (with new bearings, etc.).
Oh yeah, it makes driving more fun
05-13-2009, 11:52 PM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 4,491
It would be easier to replace the entire rear end with a GT rear end than it would be to open up the pumpkin. If you don't set the backlash EXACTLY right when installing gears, your car will whine like a baby with an empty bottle.
05-14-2009, 12:46 AM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 695
Get an 8.8 GT takeoff with the ratio of your choice. Check out newtakeoff.com. Gears & T-lok with installation cost(reputable shop)can get more expensive then buying the 8.8 takeoff. Doing the installation yourself takes a lot of expertize & special tools and if not done exactly right they will howl like crazy. Installing the 8.8 takeoff is just an easy remove & replace job that you can do yourself. Plus you get a much stronger rearend. Remember too that the 05s have a problem with the driveshaft, no u-joint clips. Not a major problem but something to think about down the road. An aluminum driveshaft is much lighter(17 lbs. vs 31 lbs.)and is very smooth. Check out Shaftmasters.
05-14-2009, 12:57 AM
#6
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,388
Good advice on a 8.8 swap, and that is something you can do mostly yourself ...and the mostly is because you need a way to get the rear end lowered and out of the way and the other one in its place.
If you plan for future power mods, then a 8.8 is the way to go, and you can get them with the gears you want already in them. Just make sure you get it with the V6 pinion flange (where the driveshaft bolts up to the rear end).
Yes you can get gears and a tloc and get them installed, but you'll spend around as much as a 8.8 swap, plus you can sell your 7.5 and offset some of the cost of the 8.8.
But if you want to keep the 7.5, then let a shop put both in at the same time, gears and tloc.
If you plan for future power mods, then a 8.8 is the way to go, and you can get them with the gears you want already in them. Just make sure you get it with the V6 pinion flange (where the driveshaft bolts up to the rear end).
Yes you can get gears and a tloc and get them installed, but you'll spend around as much as a 8.8 swap, plus you can sell your 7.5 and offset some of the cost of the 8.8.
But if you want to keep the 7.5, then let a shop put both in at the same time, gears and tloc.
05-14-2009, 10:34 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location:
Posts: 27
So I guess my next question would be if there's a good guide on the process? I don't have access to a lift, but I think someone said in another thread that you can pretty much do the 8.8 swap in your driveway... I'm all for doing it myself versus putting my mechanic's kid back into private school.
05-14-2009, 09:50 PM
#8
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,388
Somewhere I saw a writeup. Or find a link to a service manual that describes it.
Mostly, there's just a few key steps. Not necessarily in this order:
- unhook the driveshaft
- remove panhard bar
- remove the wheels, brake caliper brackets (tie calipers to hold them up), brake rotor; first remove abs/tps sensors as needed
- unhook the uca top bolt
- unhook the 2 lcas' back bolt
- unhook the 2 shock lower bolts.
Lower it and get move it out. (watch the springs, they'll fall out)
When it's out, swap over the wheel dust shields and bumpstops. If not present, put in the upper control arm bushing to its proper position.
To install, reverse the process. Make sure to get the springs back in before connecting the uca and lcas.
Torque bolts to specs (uca/lca bolts to 139 ftlbs I think, lower shock bolts to 87, etc.)
The biggest problem I had was the rear end I was putting in didnt have the uca bushing, so had to pull the stock one out of the 7.5 and put it on the 8.8. That was a real bitch.
It helps having a helper to get the rear end in position and line up the uca hole.
Don't torque the bolts down to spec until its all together with wheels on and lowered/sitting on ride height or at least sitting on the wheels. Then tighten it all up, including panhard bar.
I used 4 jack stands and 2 jacks when I did this, raising the rear as high as I could, with 2 jack stands under each side (one in front of rear wheels under the car frame). Make sure the front tires are chocked on both sides so they cant roll.
Just be very careful and make sure there's plenty of safe support.
Overall, not hard to do.
Mostly, there's just a few key steps. Not necessarily in this order:
- unhook the driveshaft
- remove panhard bar
- remove the wheels, brake caliper brackets (tie calipers to hold them up), brake rotor; first remove abs/tps sensors as needed
- unhook the uca top bolt
- unhook the 2 lcas' back bolt
- unhook the 2 shock lower bolts.
Lower it and get move it out. (watch the springs, they'll fall out)
When it's out, swap over the wheel dust shields and bumpstops. If not present, put in the upper control arm bushing to its proper position.
To install, reverse the process. Make sure to get the springs back in before connecting the uca and lcas.
Torque bolts to specs (uca/lca bolts to 139 ftlbs I think, lower shock bolts to 87, etc.)
The biggest problem I had was the rear end I was putting in didnt have the uca bushing, so had to pull the stock one out of the 7.5 and put it on the 8.8. That was a real bitch.
It helps having a helper to get the rear end in position and line up the uca hole.
Don't torque the bolts down to spec until its all together with wheels on and lowered/sitting on ride height or at least sitting on the wheels. Then tighten it all up, including panhard bar.
I used 4 jack stands and 2 jacks when I did this, raising the rear as high as I could, with 2 jack stands under each side (one in front of rear wheels under the car frame). Make sure the front tires are chocked on both sides so they cant roll.
Just be very careful and make sure there's plenty of safe support.
Overall, not hard to do.
05-15-2009, 09:41 AM
#9
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
Define 'easy'.
If you are asking, dont attempt
it without more help besides internet forum advice.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=86&viewfile... Ring Gear.pdf
Go with an 8.8 take-off with whatever gears you desire with a
pre-installed and properly torqued V6 pinion flange FTW
from www.newtakeoff.com.
If you are asking, dont attempt
it without more help besides internet forum advice.
Go with an 8.8 take-off with whatever gears you desire with a
pre-installed and properly torqued V6 pinion flange FTW
from www.newtakeoff.com.
Last edited by 157dB; 05-16-2009 at 04:59 PM.
05-20-2009, 01:54 PM
#10
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 15
I looked into doing this myself. For years I have done all the work on my own cars. Transmissions and Rear ends are something I wont touch. As for the 8.8, unless your looking at running forced air or slicks, the 7.5 will be just fine. You should be able to have the gears installed for around 200-300 bucks. If they will warrenty their work, well working it IMHO. Having said all that. If you can pick up a 8.8 for around the same price including labour, go for it as it is not a difficult install at all. I'd rate it about the same difficulty as changeing out your springs. Hope this helps make up your mind