Really in a bind and need help.
And so does my Pony!

'07 4.0 5-sp won't start by ignition.
No problem starting with short push and popping clutch.
All electrical systems are functioning - horn, lights, signals, radio, etc.
Starter checks out fine.
No power on "start" at the "S" terminal on solenoid.
Battery is new, wiring from relay to solenoid is good.
ALL fuses and relays are good, clutch safety switch is good (but currently bypassed).
Ignition switch tests good.
Tried swapping keys, FOBs, resetting, etc.
Anti-theft light blinks every 3 secs when just sitting there, goes off when ignition is turned to "ON" position.
Could the PATS be the culprit? ... How can you test it? ... Where is the module?
Pony's been lame for 3 days, need help fast, about to shoot it
Would really love to hear from anyone with any similar experience !

 

I had a similar problem with my 08. Everything came on but no crank at all. It turned out to be the smart connector in the fuse panel inside the car on the passenger side. above the fuses is the smart connection. Mind got knocked loose while i was fiddling with fuses. it looked and felt connected but wasn't completely in the socket.

 

If it were the Pats it would not start, it would still turn over though.
You need to see if there is power on the ignition switch itself.

 

Thank you gentlemen, really appreciate the input.
I did check the ignition power. Test light to the interior fuse panel shows power on start from the ignition switch, both to fuse number 19 and number 20.
However I will go back in and check the connections. I had the fuse panel out completely the other day checking that very same thing.
I also did the same with the ECM up front by the main fuse box. Pulled all the connectors off, clean them, re-taped a couple, and put them all back together and clamp them tight.
Going back in tonight to see if I can figure out what's going on in the steering column.

Does anyone know if I can jump the two wires to the Pats module on the ignition switch without blowing the ECM???
If I can, I think that could take PATS out of the equation.

 

If the Car will run, it is not the Pats Module. If your key goes bad it will turn over it will just not start. It would be just like sticking a key you had just for the door with no chip in it, will turn over until the battery dies just not ever start.

 

So does that mean it has to be a shorted wire somewhere?

When I turn the key on, everything in accessory still works. When I turn it to start, still no response.
However, the car will still start up fine using a handheld push button switch that I attached to the starter solenoid between the "S" and BAT terminals.

Does that take the PATS out of the equation entirely?

And since both keys have the same effect, I guess it souldn't be the key chips either?

 

You said the light for the Theft was flashing and going off, That is the Pats working like it is supposed to. Pats should only turn off spark and fuel it should turn over until the battery dies.

 

HALLELUIA!!! PTL!! PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
Turns out there was a loose nut behind the steering wheel ..... that would be ME!

LSS, according to my Chilton Manual, Section 8, the Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) Switch is located at the TOP of the Clutch Pedal.
Since this is a main cut-off, it was one of first things I checked, and it tested good. Therefore, went on to everything else described above.
Wracked my pea brain for the next few days as well as rattled a bunch of you folks with mis-information.
Weellllll, in the process of cleaning up a rat's nest of wiring under the dash, along with my extensive study of the wiring schematics,
I noticed another little switch located off in obscurity on the left side at the BASE of the Clutch Pedal.
Thought this was the Cruise Control DEACTIVATION Switch, but decided to test it as well. It failed!!
Hmmmm ...... back to the schematics and started tracing the color codes of the two switches' wiring.
Turns out the CPP Switch (which will not allow car to start unless clutch is engaged) is the one located ON THE SIDE OF THE PEDAL.
The Cruise Control Deactivation switch is the one located ON TOP OF THE PEDAL !!
As you can see, all along from the onset I thought the CPP was good, and that my issue had to have been with PATS. W-R-O-N-G!!!!

Lessons learned for many -
A BIG THANK YOU to all for your input and suggestions as Blue is now back on the road. Y'all are awesome!!
And thank YOU Mr. Chilton for my week long witch hunt from which I've learned soooooo much!

 

Glad to hear. I was beginning to think they might have changed it around just to screw me up

 

Thumbs up