ShadowDrake

This article is about upgrading the brakes on your 94-04 V6 or GT (Mach 1, too?), to the 13" rotors and two piston calipers that are found on the front of the 03-04 Cobras. The rears are upgraded to an 11.65" rotor, and are still a single piston caliper. This does give a significant increase in high speed braking power and looks very nice, too.

FRONT SWAP

Difficulty: 3/10 - This is a bit more involved than say, putting a CAI on, but it is a long shot from hard. Anyone can do this.
You will need to know:
-Basic hand tool knowledge
-How to bleed your brakes

Estimated time: Two hours with little to no experience

Parts/tools needed:
(The kits I bought for the front and rear are no longer available from the site I purchased them from, they now have the kits for the front and rear put together into one item. Here is the FRPP equivalent. The kit that I purchased has all FRPP parts, it was just cheaper).
Brake upgrade kit - http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=3440
13/16" socket
15mm socket
Jack, and jack stands
Breaker bar (Recommended, not necessary unless you are inhumanly strong )
Loc-tite (Recommended, not necessary unless you want to worry about your caliper mounting bolts coming loose)
Brake fluid (Recommended for bleeding the brakes)

MY PICTURES HAVE BEEN LOST. My digital camera got stolen, so the pictures I took of the front swap are lost... Next time I have one of my front wheels off, I'll take a couple new pictures and put them up here to aid.

Procedure:
1- Loosen lug nuts using the 13/16" socket while the vehicle is on the ground, do not remove them, just break them loose.

2- Jack the front of your stang up and support with jack stands. You do not need to jack the whole front up, one side at a time will work, but it is much easier if you get the whole front up. Your jack stand can go under the base of the shock tower at the spring. BE SAFE, if the vehicle is not safely supported on jack stands, do not continue. I am not responsible for any injuries because of your mistakes.

3- Finish removing lugs, and remove wheel. If you are working on the left side, I have found it easier to turn the wheel all the way to the left. If you are working on the right side, turn the wheel all the way to the right. You do not need to do this, but it gives you room to get the breaker bar in there.

4- Behind the rotor, there are two bolts holding the whole assembly together. Use your 15mm socket on the breaker bar. These bolts are on VERY tight, and have threadlocker on them from the factory. Don't be afraid to give them some force on the breaker bar. Be careful not to damage them, though, as you will need to re-use them.

4.5- When you take those two bolts out, the caliper may fall. Either get a friend to hold it while you take the bolts out, or just be ready for it. After you get it out, pull the caliper off the rotor with a rocking motion if necessary and set it on a separate jack stand, or stick it out of the way somewhere, leave the brake line attached for now.

5- After you take the caliper off, the rotor may have little metal clamps on the studs that are holding the rotor on. I just cut them off, they are not necessary. Slide the rotor off.

6- Replace everything in reverse order, slide the new rotor on, slide the new caliper over it, and manuver it into position, bolt it into place, if you have a thread locker, use it on the bolts, and tighten them down to about as tight as they were when you took it off.

7- Now it's time to switch your brake line over to the new caliper. The kit comes with new brake lines but it is not necessary to switch them. All the old hardware works fine. Remove the banjo bolt from the old caliper, be sure the washers on it do not fall off, and transfer the bolt directly to the new caliper. You do not need to rush, but do not be slow about it either, once the banjo bolt is out, brake fluid will start to drain out, so get it back on the new one before too much air gets into the system.

8- Do the other side, the procedure is the exact same. After this is done, bleed your brakes, right side first, then the left. If you are going to be doing the rear brakes right after, do not bleed them yet. It is safe to drive with only the front brakes swapped (it just looks a little funny). Put wheels back on and torque lugs to 90-95 ft/lbs. TEST TO BE SURE YOU CAN SAFELY STOP before you get on the street!

That about covers it. You can buy the front and rear brake kits as a whole from StangSuspension.com ( http://www.stangsuspension.com/store...?idproduct=825 ). They offer the option to upgrade to slotted and drilled rotors, making that an easy upgrade if you would like, the price is good too, at $25 a rotor.

I wanted to write this for the person who has very little automotive knowledge. I know I left out some things in the end, but you should be able to fill in the small gaps. See any inconsistencies, errors, or something I missed? Please report them to me through PM or e-mail! Thanks.

Jason LaGuidice
jason4325@gmail.com

ShadowDrake

REAR SWAP

Difficulty: 7/10 - This is a very involved installation, which requires you to do much more than you would expect. You should consider paying someone to do this (should be about two to three hours of shop labor).
You will need to know:
-How to disassemble your 8.8" trac-lok rear
-How to weld
-Basic hand tool knowledge
-How to bleed your brakes

Estimated time: It is tough to say, I have spent easily 10 hours, and I am not complete (but close). With little to no experience, this is a weekend job for sure.

Parts/tools needed:
Brake upgrade kit - (See previous post for link to full kit)
13/16" socket
15mm socket
15mm wrench
13mm socket
12mm socket
10mm socket
8mm socket
Small e-Torx bit (READ: These are tough to find, they are like a torx head but reversed... Sears had a kit that I needed... They are not sized as far as I know... it is very close to 6.5mm, a 6.5mm socket fit the screw but spun when I put pressure on it, 6mm was too small... ALSO: If you do not have ABS, you do not need this!)
Automatic transmission pick (or an over-sized dental tool gone bad)
Large, flat head screwdriver, or a paint scraper (Just something to remove gasket material with)
Welder (any kind will do, a MIG welder is probably best)
Catch pan for old gear lube
Silicone RTV sealant
75W140 Gear lube
Breaker bar
Jack, and jack stands
Loc-tite
Denatured alcohol
IF YOU DID NOT PURCHASE THE FRONT KIT: Four copper compression washers (for the banjo bolts)
An assistant, this can just not be done alone
(There has to be something I am forgetting, I can do an edit after I get everything cleaned up in the garage)

Procedure:
1- Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear wheels, and use jack stands to get the rear axle as high as you can get it... jacking it up by the body works for a start, but you'll want the axle up high so you can squeeze in under the fuel tank. Remove rear wheels. Put your stang in neutral, even if you are an automatic, and release the parking brake.

1.5- Again, be very safe, do not climb under your stang unless it is safely supported by jack stands, the jack alone doesn't do it.

2- Remove the parking brake cable. A pair of pliers works, or that screwdriver you are using as a gasket remover. Pry on it and it will slip out back around its little mount.




2.5- On the bottom of the caliper, there's a little c-shaped spring steel washer that holds the parking brake cable to the caliper. Use a screwdriver, or your transmission pick to pry it out. It's a tough little thing, and if you bend it, you can just hammer it flat again. After you have it out, give the parking brake cable a tug (from the front of the wheel well) and it should pop out... let it sit out of the way.



3- Behind the rotor, there are two 15mm bolts again holding the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket. Same deal as before, sneak your breaker bar in there and break them loose. They are also on very tight and have a threadlocker from the factory on there. Remove them, set the old caliper on a separate jack stand near the rotor assembly. In the picture, you can see the two bolts just below the shock (picture is sideways). After the caliper is off, slide the rotor off.


4- Remove the dust shield plate, there are three 8mm screws.


5- Remove the U-bolt that is bolted to the axle. It seems to have no use, other than as a spacer. You will need the 12mm socket to get it off. It is black and mainly held on to the caliper mounting bracket by the two screws that held the caliper on. You have two more to remove, and it will come right off.

6- Remove the ABS sensor. You will need that small e-torx bit. It only has one e-torx screw holding it in place. Remove it, and use that handy screwdriver again to CAREFULLY pry it out. It will probably be a little difficult, just be patient and keep working on it. After you slide it out, just let it dangle. I put the screw that was holding it into the new caliper mounting bracket, just so I wouldn't lose it. If you don't have ABS, you get to skip this step!


7- Now that everything else is done, it's time to remove the differential cover. Position your catch pan below it, and remove the bottom bolts using the 13mm socket, and loosen the top ones. If it does not start draining, use your ever-helpful screwdriver and pry it GENTLY from the bottom, working your way around both sides breaking the seal. The bolts circled in green should be removed, the ones in red should be just loosened. Let it drain for a few minutes, then remove the rest of the bolts and remove the cover. ON A SIDE NOTE: When you are trying to remove the bolts, I have found it is easier if you jack the body up. Leave the axle supported by jack stands, and jack the body way up. It will give you extra room. You'll need the extra room for the upcoming steps.



EXPERTS ONLY FROM HERE ON IN, my descriptions are going to be more vague because it is hard to describe the internals of a rear to someone who does not know how it works. I have not included pictures because it is too tough to get pictures of that small area. They would have all came out blurrier than the rest of my pictures anyway.

8- There's an 8mm screw holding a bolt through the center of the carrier. You can find it on the center of the carrier. This thing was on there EXTREMELY tight AND it had threadlocker! When it finally broke loose, I thought I had broken my ratchet by the sound it made. A friend (or two even) will need to be at the end of each axle holding it still to stop it from spinning away when you try to get this screw out.

9- After you remove that screw, the bolt it was holding will slide out in the opposite direction. Have a friend rotate the axle SLOWLY as if the car were in reverse, until the other side of the carrier is facing you, and you can see the side the bolt should slide out on. Rotate so the bolt will slide out downwards, if it does not slide out, rotate a little more and tap on it... you may have to reach in the diff and hold the bolt up while your friend rotates the axle so you can get this bolt out. Here is what it should look like with the bolt out. The second picture is about where the bolt goes through.



10- Pick either axleshaft to remove first, it doesn't matter which. With you still under the car, have your friend push the axle inwards, so the end of it goes into the center of the differential more. It will expose a c-clip. Use your transmission pick to push/pull the clip out. Once it is out, you will be able to slide the axle out. NOTES: If the axle will not go in far enough, have your friend rotate it a very small amount, and it should go in more than enough sooner or later. Work with it till it does what you want. You had to remove the ABS sensor to get the axle to go in far enough. The picture I have provided will show you what slides in more (for the left axle) to expose the c-clip behind it.


11- CAREFULLY slide the axle out, try to keep it as straight as possible and support it as you pull it out so you do not damage and have to replace your axleshaft bearings. After it is out, you can just stand it up on a flat surface on the lug studs. If your friend is now bored, tell him/her to count the splines on you

code3GT

[quote]ORIGINAL: ShadowDrake

REAR SWAP

Difficulty: 7/10 - This is a very involved installation, which requires you to do much more than you would expect. You should consider paying someone to do this (should be about two to three hours of shop labor).
You will need to know:
-How to disassemble your 8.8" trac-lok rear
-How to weld
-Basic hand tool knowledge
-How to bleed your brakes

Estimated time: It is tough to say, I have spent easily 10 hours, and I am not complete (but close). With little to no experience, this is a weekend job for sure.

Parts/tools needed:
Brake upgrade kit - (See previous post for link to full kit)
13/16" socket
15mm socket
15mm wrench
13mm socket
12mm socket
10mm socket
8mm socket
Small e-Torx bit (READ: These are tough to find, they are like a torx head but reversed... Sears had a kit that I needed... They are not sized as far as I know... it is very close to 6.5mm, a 6.5mm socket fit the screw but spun when I put pressure on it, 6mm was too small... ALSO: If you do not have ABS, you do not need this!)
Automatic transmission pick (or an over-sized dental tool gone bad)
Large, flat head screwdriver, or a paint scraper (Just something to remove gasket material with)
Welder (any kind will do, a MIG welder is probably best)
Catch pan for old gear lube
Silicone RTV sealant
75W140 Gear lube
Breaker bar
Jack, and jack stands
Loc-tite
Denatured alcohol
IF YOU DID NOT PURCHASE THE FRONT KIT: Four copper compression washers (for the banjo bolts)
An assistant, this can just not be done alone
(There has to be something I am forgetting, I can do an edit after I get everything cleaned up in the garage)

Procedure:
1- Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear wheels, and use jack stands to get the rear axle as high as you can get it... jacking it up by the body works for a start, but you'll want the axle up high so you can squeeze in under the fuel tank. Remove rear wheels. Put your stang in neutral, even if you are an automatic, and release the parking brake.

1.5- Again, be very safe, do not climb under your stang unless it is safely supported by jack stands, the jack alone doesn't do it.

2- Remove the parking brake cable. A pair of pliers works, or that screwdriver you are using as a gasket remover. Pry on it and it will slip out back around its little mount.




2.5- On the bottom of the caliper, there's a little c-shaped spring steel washer that holds the parking brake cable to the caliper. Use a screwdriver, or your transmission pick to pry it out. It's a tough little thing, and if you bend it, you can just hammer it flat again. After you have it out, give the parking brake cable a tug (from the front of the wheel well) and it should pop out... let it sit out of the way.



3- Behind the rotor, there are two 15mm bolts again holding the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket. Same deal as before, sneak your breaker bar in there and break them loose. They are also on very tight and have a threadlocker from the factory on there. Remove them, set the old caliper on a separate jack stand near the rotor assembly. In the picture, you can see the two bolts just below the shock (picture is sideways). After the caliper is off, slide the rotor off.


4- Remove the dust shield plate, there are three 8mm screws.


5- Remove the U-bolt that is bolted to the axle. It seems to have no use, other than as a spacer. You will need the 12mm socket to get it off. It is black and mainly held on to the caliper mounting bracket by the two screws that held the caliper on. You have two more to remove, and it will come right off.

6- Remove the ABS sensor. You will need that small e-torx bit. It only has one e-torx screw holding it in place. Remove it, and use that handy screwdriver again to CAREFULLY pry it out. It will probably be a little difficult, just be patient and keep working on it. After you slide it out, just let it dangle. I put the screw that was holding it into the new caliper mounting bracket, just so I wouldn't lose it. If you don't have ABS, you get to skip this step!


7- Now that everything else is done, it's time to remove the differential cover. Position your catch pan below it, and remove the bottom bolts using the 13mm socket, and loosen the top ones. If it does not start draining, use your ever-helpful screwdriver and pry it GENTLY from the bottom, working your way around both sides breaking the seal. The bolts circled in green should be removed, the ones in red should be just loosened. Let it drain for a few minutes, then remove the rest of the bolts and remove the cover. ON A SIDE NOTE: When you are trying to remove the bolts, I have found it is easier if you jack the body up. Leave the axle supported by jack stands, and jack the body way up. It will give you extra room. You'll need the extra room for the upcoming steps.



EXPERTS ONLY FROM HERE ON IN, my descriptions are going to be more vague because it is hard to describe the internals of a rear to someone who does not know how it works. I have not included pictures because it is too tough to get pictures of that small area. They would have all came out blurrier than the rest of my pictures anyway.

8- There's an 8mm screw holding a bolt through the center of the carrier. You can find it on the center of the carrier. This thing was on there EXTREMELY tight AND it had threadlocker! When it finally broke loose, I thought I had broken my ratchet by the sound it made. A friend (or two even) will need to be at the end of each axle holding it still to stop it from spinning away when you try to get this screw out.

9- After you remove that screw, the bolt it was holding will slide out in the opposite direction. Have a friend rotate the axle SLOWLY as if the car were in reverse, until the other side of the carrier is facing you, and you can see the side the bolt should slide out on. Rotate so the bolt will slide out downwards, if it does not slide out, rotate a little more and tap on it... you may have to reach in the diff and hold the bolt up while your friend rotates the axle so you can get this bolt out. Here is what it should look like with the bolt out. The second picture is about where the bolt goes through.



10- Pick either axleshaft to remove first, it doesn't matter which. With you still under the car, have your friend push the axle inwards, so the end of it goes into the center of the differential more. It will expose a c-clip. Use your transmission pick to push/pull the clip out. Once it is out, you will be able to slide the axle out. NOTES: If the axle will not go in far enough, have your friend rotate it a very small amount, and it should go in more than enough sooner or later. Work with it till it does what you want. You had to remove the ABS sensor to get the axle to go in far enough. The picture I have provided will show you what slides in more (for the left axle) to expose the c-clip behind it.


11- CAREFULLY slide the axle out, try to keep it as straight as possible and support it as you pull it out so you do not damage and have to replace your axleshaft bearings. After it is out, you can just stand it up on a flat surface on the lug studs. If your friend is now bored, te