4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.
Old 10-08-2015, 01:26 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: Powertrain Guides
Print Wikipost

HOW TO: CHANGING SPARK PLUGS 99-04

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-24-2012, 09:35 PM
  #21  
kingrukus
2nd Gear Member
 
kingrukus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Queens. NY
Posts: 212
Default

On all nissan's and hondas, I always would put plugs in until they felt slightly snug, then added 1/4 turn. I suppose this rule doesn't apply to these 2v Fords eh?
kingrukus is offline  
Old 04-25-2012, 06:27 AM
  #22  
cliffyk
TECH SAVANT
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Default

Snug plus 1/16th turn for tapered seat plugs--this is from NGK installation guide (Section 2, click here)

3. Tighten the spark plug finger tight until the gasket reaches the cylinder head, then tighten about 1/2-2/3 turn more with a spark plug wrench.
(Taper seat: About 1/16 turn more).
Here's a link to a test I did a while back, an additional 1/4 turn requires over 45 lb-ft--I.e. WAY too tight:

cliffyk is offline  
Old 08-07-2012, 12:20 PM
  #23  
kingrukus
2nd Gear Member
 
kingrukus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Queens. NY
Posts: 212
Default

What should I gap these plugs at?
kingrukus is offline  
Old 08-07-2012, 12:20 PM
  #24  
kingrukus
2nd Gear Member
 
kingrukus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Queens. NY
Posts: 212
Default

They are the oem Motorcraft SP-493 plugs - I was hoping they would be pre-gapped.
kingrukus is offline  
Old 08-07-2012, 01:55 PM
  #25  
cliffyk
TECH SAVANT
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Default

0.054"

"Pre-gapped" plugs are a myth, any plug manufacturer will tell you so. Modern manufacturing techniques allow them to be made with consistent gaps, however that gap may or may not be the correct gap for your engine--I.e. you have to at least check it, and change it if necessary.

This is from NGK's website (click here)

"Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature
and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.
" [emphasis added]
cliffyk is offline  
Old 08-08-2012, 01:15 AM
  #26  
kingrukus
2nd Gear Member
 
kingrukus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Queens. NY
Posts: 212
Default

I ended up checking all of my motorcraft OE plugs and many of them were way under 0.054"... anyhow I ended up adjusting them.
kingrukus is offline  
Old 11-05-2012, 10:50 AM
  #27  
sfmustang
1st Gear Member
 
sfmustang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tx
Posts: 79
Default

Question

On the passenger side, 2nd plug from the firewall its very hard to get to. There is the fuel rail I guess you would call it, but right at that 2nd plug from the back there is a T intersection from the rail to a connection piece that has a tube connected to it thats blocking access.
sfmustang is offline  
Old 11-05-2012, 10:54 AM
  #28  
sfmustang
1st Gear Member
 
sfmustang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tx
Posts: 79
Default

I found this online to show what i mean.

sfmustang is offline  
Old 11-05-2012, 10:56 AM
  #29  
uberstang1
Chupacabra
 
uberstang1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: wilkes-barre PA
Posts: 9,621
Default

thats the fuel line to fuel rail connecion, the safetly clip comes off and theres a tool u insert to release the spring lock and then the line seperates from the rail. u should be able to change the plugs without removing any of the fuel stuff.
uberstang1 is offline  
Old 11-05-2012, 11:04 AM
  #30  
cliffyk
TECH SAVANT
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Default

Originally Posted by sfmustang
Question

On the passenger side, 2nd plug from the firewall its very hard to get to. There is the fuel rail I guess you would call it, but right at that 2nd plug from the back there is a T intersection from the rail to a connection piece that has a tube connected to it thats blocking access.
I have an '03, identical under the hood to your '04--and have never found it necessary to break the fuel line to change that plug (which I have done at least a dozen times).

What "weapons" are you using? I use an extended deep 3/8" plug socket and a 10" wobble extension:



Using an extended socket makes it much easier as it will not cant or **** on the plug.

wobble extension:
cliffyk is offline  


Quick Reply: HOW TO: CHANGING SPARK PLUGS 99-04



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:53 PM.