i just changed my front brake pads and didnt have time to get to the rear pads but is it much different change the rear pads? are there any online guides to changing the rear pads?

 

First off,

The Search function works wonders on this biotch... Use it...


There was a thread not too long ago about this....

Secondly, yes, there are some big differences from the fronts to the rears....



JT

 

ok.......

 

The difference from front to rear is that the rears have to be turned while they are being compressed.. Pick you the tool for about $10-$12 and it'll be fine.

 

Ive heard that you need to open the bleeder before you push the piston back in or you`ll damage the ABS box. Is this really true? If so, how does it cause damage? I talked to a guy at a brake shop and he said you only need to take the cap off the master cylinder before you push the piston back in and you will be fine. I dont get it. Who`s right?

 

I cannot speak for opening the bleader. I just changed my rear pads last weekend and all I did was remove the cap from the master cylinder. Everything works fine. I hope that I did not do any damage. I did have a very difficult time collapsing the piston on each side though. Even with the tool that fits the notches in the caliper piston (mine was a small cube with various notches on each side that fits a 3/8 ratchet), it took a tremendous amount of effort to rotate and collapse the piston on each side. Did I miss something? I had the exact same problem on a Taurus. I owned an Escort GT for years and the rear calipers collapsed effortlessly every time. Is there a better tool or technique? Or should I just change my pads (and collapse the pistons) more frequently?

 

yes there is a better tool...i just rented it from the murrays auto parts...it works perfect, i used it on my 96 gt and my uncles 97 cobra. I'll try to post a pic of it. Its a threaded steel rod with a round end on it which grips the piston, and it uses a plate with a threaded hole in it which sits where your brake pad would be to anchor this tool in place so when you thread this rod in, it pushes/turns the piston in. I tried to explain this the best i could, i hope that helps.

 

i have tried karleb777's tool, and i couldn't get it to compress far enough under my own strength. Kinda of off subject, but has anyone had problems with the rear caliper bracket slider pins rusting in place? I had to order 2 new brackets for my gt, and 1 new one for my uncles 97 cobra last night. They are both stored winter vehicles also. I have greased the pins well in the past.

 

+1 on the Bears.

Here's my experience.

When I put my blower on I also did the brakes. My buddy that helped out has worked at a muffler/brake outfit for 8 years helped me out. On my 6 year old 2000 we ended up replacing all 4 rotors, all the pads, & the front calipers were locked so we replaced them.

I can't explain the calipers-locked situation. But They were. Maybe sitting for 8 months had something to do with it??? IDK.

Anyway. You will need a specialty tool to put the rear calipers back into place. AUTOZONE rented me the tool for free. In fact, I didn't have the reciept when I returned the tool and they searched their system and it WASN'T a problem.

When I made my "blower installed" post w/ pics there was a couple of jerkoffs who poked fun at me for bleeding my brakes. Well...It needs to be done, trust me.

It's a DIY & a breeze. GL!!!

 

I just changed my rear pads last weekend and it was easy peasy. All i used to collapse the piston was a pair of vice grips and an F-clamp. Collapsing the piston is the hardest part. Not all that hard....just time consuming.