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Dyno results and questions

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Old 08-04-2006, 09:12 PM
  #21  
white04gt
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Default RE: Dyno results and questions

Just out of curiosity, who are you having tune your car? I was gonna let James do it, but I'm not so sure after my gear install...

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Old 08-04-2006, 11:29 PM
  #22  
sweet99
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ORIGINAL: sweet99
ORIGINAL: 40thgtflwow that is very lean. what is your total timeing?
Check your SC's install book or ask someone else who has a SC or even someone more knowledgeaable about motors. Stoich is what NA motor's idle at, in fact your SC should idle at the same 14.7:1. Lower ratio's are RICHER!! 13.6:1 is richer than 14.7 and 12.5:1 is richer than 13.6:1 and 12.0:1 is richer than 12.5:1.You can most likely run 11.5 on pump with a good tune. 12.5 would require race fuel because it is LEANER!! I ran 30psi and 18* of timing at an 11.5:1 on a 112 octane fuel, leaded of course. Not on a Mustang but a Talon turbo. I know about AFR's and I know that you do also but are mixed up on this one and please admit it when you find out you are wrong. Mark
I posted this and quoted the wrong post. It was 2000GT I meant to quote as he was telling me and others that a low number was nlean and high was lean. Incorrect of course but he was able to edit his mistake and did not have to say oops! Mark
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Old 08-04-2006, 11:32 PM
  #23  
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Default RE: Dyno results and questions

ORIGINAL: white04gtJust out of curiosity, who are you having tune your car? I was gonna let James do it, but I'm not so sure after my gear install...
Please don't get a BBK plenum or you will be dissapointed. Get a C&L with a BBK 75mm TB if you are adding a plenum as they add the most power as they are the best design out there. Don't believe me but do some searching and reading! mark
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:12 AM
  #24  
2000GT4.6
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Default RE: Dyno results and questions

define full boltons
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:19 AM
  #25  
2000GT4.6
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Default RE: Dyno results and questions


ORIGINAL: stang2000

ORIGINAL: sweet99

a magazine was doing a test on the Diablo Predator and they found that the diablo AFR made the most power as it came from the "BOX", which was a 12:1, quite a bit richer than your 13.6:1.
I'm running an 11.5 A/F R but it's S/C'd. 12-12.8 is MAX(leaner) that you should go on a S/C app, not sure about the NA one. Anyway, just wanted to let you know. I was running a 10.5 on the rich side at first. No wonder I had everything smoking black out back, lol.
12:8 is way lean for a blown engine. On your typical forced induction setup you don't want to see anything over a 12.0:1 on a daily driven 93 octane car.

Most N/A 2v will see max power around 13:1 a/f ratio. It looks like your a little lean BTW ford doesn't send em out at 12.0:1, at least not the 2v cars. thats way rich for a n/a setup.

Also, while you should make more than 248 WHP on a full boltons GT, you should not expect every car to make 265+ WHP on a dynojet at full boltons. I know you see people making around 270~ whp on their full boltons cars, but there are some very friendly dynos out there too. Its entirely possible you are just on a low reading dyno. Get another dyno on a dynojet someplace else and see what happens.

Also, on your n/a application your shop dyno should be compensating for the temperature and humidity outside and adjusting the numbers, so that should not effect your dyno as much.
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:46 AM
  #26  
sweet99
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Default RE: Dyno results and questions

ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
ORIGINAL: stang2000
ORIGINAL: sweet99a magazine was doing a test on the Diablo Predator and they found that the diablo AFR made the most power as it came from the "BOX", which was a 12:1, quite a bit richer than your 13.6:1.
I'm running an 11.5 A/F R but it's S/C'd. 12-12.8 is MAX(leaner) that you should go on a S/C app, not sure about the NA one. Anyway, just wanted to let you know. I was running a 10.5 on the rich side at first. No wonder I had everything smoking black out back, lol.
12:8 is way lean for a blown engine. On your typical forced induction setup you don't want to see anything over a 12.0:1 on a daily driven 93 octane car.Most N/A 2v will see max power around 13:1 a/f ratio. It looks like your a little lean BTW ford doesn't send em out at 12.0:1, at least not the 2v cars. thats way rich for a n/a setup. Also, while you should make more than 248 WHP on a full boltons GT, you should not expect every car to make 265+ WHP on a dynojet at full boltons. I know you see people making around 270~ whp on their full boltons cars, but there are some very friendly dynos out there too. Its entirely possible you are just on a low reading dyno. Get another dyno on a dynojet someplace else and see what happens.Also, on your n/a application your shop dyno should be compensating for the temperature and humidity outside and adjusting the numbers, so that should not effect your dyno as much.
A 12.8:1 is possible on C16. I did a search for "air fuel ratio" and came up with at least 4 guys quoting the same mag article ythat says Ford stock GT ECM's have a 12:1 AFR at WOT. That mag went on to find out the Diablo's 12.5:1 to be the best setting for a NA 2v motor as they got 240HP with it after they maxed the timing at Diablo's suggestion. I was just repeating what the magazine article said the stock ECM's had because I am trying to learn what NA car motors like as I am coming over from turbocharged cars, DSM's to be specific, and do not have anyidea what is a good AFR for an NA Mustang 4.6 motor. Thanks, mark PS: 12:1 is too rich for a 2v NA motor. Makes perfect sense that Ford sent them out that way to make them "safer" to a meltdown than with a leaner mix. According to the mag 12.5:1 made the best power with a 13:1 losing 1-2 HP.
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:51 AM
  #27  
2000GT4.6
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Default RE: Dyno results and questions


ORIGINAL: sweet99

ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
ORIGINAL: stang2000
ORIGINAL: sweet99a magazine was doing a test on the Diablo Predator and they found that the diablo AFR made the most power as it came from the "BOX", which was a 12:1, quite a bit richer than your 13.6:1.
I'm running an 11.5 A/F R but it's S/C'd. 12-12.8 is MAX(leaner) that you should go on a S/C app, not sure about the NA one. Anyway, just wanted to let you know. I was running a 10.5 on the rich side at first. No wonder I had everything smoking black out back, lol.
12:8 is way lean for a blown engine. On your typical forced induction setup you don't want to see anything over a 12.0:1 on a daily driven 93 octane car.Most N/A 2v will see max power around 13:1 a/f ratio. It looks like your a little lean BTW ford doesn't send em out at 12.0:1, at least not the 2v cars. thats way rich for a n/a setup. Also, while you should make more than 248 WHP on a full boltons GT, you should not expect every car to make 265+ WHP on a dynojet at full boltons. I know you see people making around 270~ whp on their full boltons cars, but there are some very friendly dynos out there too. Its entirely possible you are just on a low reading dyno. Get another dyno on a dynojet someplace else and see what happens.Also, on your n/a application your shop dyno should be compensating for the temperature and humidity outside and adjusting the numbers, so that should not effect your dyno as much.
A 12.8:1 is possible on C16. I did a search for "air fuel ratio" and came up with at least 4 guys quoting the same mag article ythat says Ford stock GT ECM's have a 12:1 AFR at WOT. That mag went on to find out the Diablo's 12.5:1 to be the best setting for a NA 2v motor as they got 240HP with it after they maxed the timing at Diablo's suggestion. I was just repeating what the magazine article said the stock ECM's had because I am trying to learn what NA car motors like as I am coming over from turbocharged cars, DSM's to be specific, and do not have anyidea what is a good AFR for an NA Mustang 4.6 motor. Thanks, mark
The new 05/06 GT cars come out pretty rich, thats why you can make so much power from just tune on a otherwise stock car. However, the 99-04 cars came out pretty well tuned. I was sitting right at 13:1 stock, and with full boltons the stock tune was still keeping it around 12.6:1.

If you know what your doing, the average 99-04 should be right around a 13:1 A/F ratio a for maximum horsepower.

BTW, who wants to run race fuel on a street car? Keep it at least around 12.0 or richer for a safe and powerful tune.
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:57 AM
  #28  
steele901
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Default RE: Dyno results and questions

i got my car tuned a couple of weeks ago on a dynojet when it was 99.7 degrees and 27% humity and dynoed a little low as well. i was also told i could expect about 20hp to the wheels in ideal conditions so it sounds like there must be some truth to that and not just the shop trying to boost my ego. put down 256rwhp and 301rwtq so around 276 and 321. i ain't complaining considering the weak gt40p heads i've got. i know i ain't a 4.6 (wandered in here for something else) but thought i'd throw in my 2 cents
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Old 08-05-2006, 01:20 AM
  #29  
sweet99
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Default RE: Dyno results and questions

ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
ORIGINAL: sweet99
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
ORIGINAL: stang2000
ORIGINAL: sweet99a magazine was doing a test on the Diablo Predator and they found that the diablo AFR made the most power as it came from the "BOX", which was a 12:1, quite a bit richer than your 13.6:1.
I'm running an 11.5 A/F R but it's S/C'd. 12-12.8 is MAX(leaner) that you should go on a S/C app, not sure about the NA one. Anyway, just wanted to let you know. I was running a 10.5 on the rich side at first. No wonder I had everything smoking black out back, lol.
12:8 is way lean for a blown engine. On your typical forced induction setup you don't want to see anything over a 12.0:1 on a daily driven 93 octane car.Most N/A 2v will see max power around 13:1 a/f ratio. It looks like your a little lean BTW ford doesn't send em out at 12.0:1, at least not the 2v cars. thats way rich for a n/a setup. Also, while you should make more than 248 WHP on a full boltons GT, you should not expect every car to make 265+ WHP on a dynojet at full boltons. I know you see people making around 270~ whp on their full boltons cars, but there are some very friendly dynos out there too. Its entirely possible you are just on a low reading dyno. Get another dyno on a dynojet someplace else and see what happens.Also, on your n/a application your shop dyno should be compensating for the temperature and humidity outside and adjusting the numbers, so that should not effect your dyno as much.
A 12.8:1 is possible on C16. I did a search for "air fuel ratio" and came up with at least 4 guys quoting the same mag article ythat says Ford stock GT ECM's have a 12:1 AFR at WOT. That mag went on to find out the Diablo's 12.5:1 to be the best setting for a NA 2v motor as they got 240HP with it after they maxed the timing at Diablo's suggestion. I was just repeating what the magazine article said the stock ECM's had because I am trying to learn what NA car motors like as I am coming over from turbocharged cars, DSM's to be specific, and do not have anyidea what is a good AFR for an NA Mustang 4.6 motor. Thanks, mark
The new 05/06 GT cars come out pretty rich, thats why you can make so much power from just tune on a otherwise stock car. However, the 99-04 cars came out pretty well tuned. I was sitting right at 13:1 stock, and with full boltons the stock tune was still keeping it around 12.6:1. If you know what your doing, the average 99-04 should be right around a 13:1 A/F ratio a for maximum horsepower.BTW, who wants to run race fuel on a street car? Keep it at least around 12.0 or richer for a safe and powerful tune.
Like I said I am searching to find what AFR's the 4.6, '99-'04's run their best HP AFR's at for NA motors. The 12:1 was quoted from a mag testing a Predator that you can read yourself by doing a search for "air fuel ratio" I did my search for 50 returns and about the break at 25 is where the test is quoted several times, ostang or like that is one of the guys quoting it. They made less power on their dyno with anything they tried leaner than a 12.5:1.
As far as fuel and boost the SC motors don't run very much boost so the need for race fuel is not required like it was/is for the talons and Eclipses. You can go to www.dsmtimes.ord to see what some are running the 1/4 mile in for times and traps. Many street cars are doing the 1/4 in the times Mustangs are doing the 1/8th in. I ran 30psi and was considered conservative among the experienced guys who are running 10's in street cars using race fuels. Not much choice at 35+ psi.
I happen to enjoy my '992v Convertible quite a lot but it seems without a SC there is not much chance of hitting a 13.5 with an automatic with bolt ons. At least I don't have my head under the hood everyday like I had to with the talon. Still would like to hit 13.5 at say 102mph.
So far I have a BBK CAI(JUNK).
4.10's and a Predator tune. PYPES catted X-pipe and catback(added the 10HP I read about-not much for a $582. cost plus the $100. for installation) Sounds better though. Did a set of Buillitt wheels and 275/40and 315/35 tires for looks and handling. I will see if they help 60' times enough to get a 2.0 sec.
Now I am stuck for what to do. STOP!? UDP's, thoose I heard were the best mod for the dollar, 5HP for $200. maybe get better gas mileage but have not researched that yet. Looking into plenums right now as I believe I recently read of a fellow getting a good amount more than the 7WHP I had read about, almost close to 20HP if that's possible.
To et the record straight I happen to really like this car and am not going back to the DSM's despite their rather easy high 12 sec times. mark
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Old 08-05-2006, 01:27 AM
  #30  
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Don't mean to hyjack the thread, but I noticed you have 3.90 gears in your car which is rare most people either go 3.73 or 4.10, just wondering how you feel about the 3.90s, do u wish u went 4.10's?
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