98roush

I have a 1998 mustang GT with an automatic 470RW transmission and all of a sudden after about 3 take offs that i had to rev it up to 4000 rpm before it would lock up, now i have nothing, only reverse i dont think its the clutch b/c in the pan theres not much metal around the magnet only as much from normal wear from the gears. I think it might be electrical so what controls the shift silenoids? Any help is gratefully appreciated.

sweet99

Did you do 3 race type take offs? Or did you have to rev the motor to 4000rpms to get the car to move? While the tranny is much electrical it also has 2 cables. One that goes up by the throttle which would control downshifting and some other functions. There is a cable that attaches to the tranny itself and is held in the proper position by a bolt. Is it possible the bolt fell out? Get yourself a haynes manual for about $16. from your local auto store and check it out, pics and all. mark

98roush

no they weren't race take offs it was just to get the tranny to lock up and get home, theres nothing mechanically wrong with it externally and ive taken off the pan and the shift silenoids dont seem to ever get power so im wondering what module controls it.

sweet99

If you have a tuner you can check for trouble codes. According to the manual it refers back to where the cable attaches to the external side of the tranny and it's location. I don't think this would be a problem unless the bolt loosened up though and when you are under looking at it and someone else helps and shifts the car and you see it is not moving the selector like it should. Sorry I can't help more. mark
The Haynes manual does show how to adjust the cable if it is out of adhustment but only would apply if yours had loosened up so that when ytou moved the shift lever it did not move the lever on the tranny.

98roush

again mechanically the tranny is fine such as the shift cable im thinking its electrical because the shift silenoids are never activating. so what controls the shift silenoids?

ackuric

i still dont get it.....

reving up to 4,000 rpms, in drive, before it would 'lock' up? you're not explaining yourself well enough to be understood exactly. at least for me.

explain the reving to 4,000 rpms part, and '3 take offs'.

as far electrical.

it could be your tcs, transmission control switch, tells it what range it is as far as the selector.

i have a series of tests you could do if you are so inclined.

ackuric

need a data logger/scanner for some of this


tcs pcm pin = 29
tcil pcm pin = 79

dtc code p1780
check tcs function
key on, engine off
access the tcs pid
cycle the tcs switch button, then hold it depressed
key off

did the tcs pid reading switch from on to off?

check voltage to tps

disconnect pcm
key on engine off
measure voltage between pcm harness connector pin and battery negative, post while cycling the tcs several times
key off

did the voltage cycle?
if not, replace pcm

tcs could have a short in its ground to harness, could have a short to power/load, or harness can just be bad. if so repairs must be done

check tcil function

key on engine off
cycle tcs
did the tcil lamp change state?

if not tcil may have a short.

check voltage to tcil

key off
disconnect pcm
key on engine off
measuer voltage between tcil pcm pin and battery negative post.
are the voltage readings greater than 2.0 volts?


also may want to check fuses

Colorado_Mustang

Sounds like your pump isn't putting out any pressure. If you have a pressure gauge, check your line pressure. Or, as you suspect, it may be time for some electronics.

97targa

Your Valve body controlls the pressure to the solonoids, thats why a shift kit is just the valve-body, because it increases pressure in the lines for more aggressive shifts. I really ereccomend this if you are doing any type of racing. It is actually better for your transmission since there is virtually no slipping of the bands. It seems like it would be harder on the gears, but it is better, believe me I have rebuilt many tranny's and put shift kits in all of them. Your plantetary gears are very pricey and they only blow out for underpressure reasons, or gunk build up. You can do a valve-body yourself in about 5 or 6 hours from beginning to end. It's not hard, you just need to pay attention where **** comes from. Write stuff down if it's more than you can handle, like big O-ring out of pass. rear side. Stuff like that.
You could have a few different problems in your ride. Could be a combo of things, but I'm gonna guess it's your Torque converter. There should be a computer reading to see how much pressure the converter is supplying? If the converter is stripped out there wouldn't be much of a reading. Now you said you have reverse???? That could be your planetary Gear set? Very expensive. Start out by checking the fluid and smelling it. If the fluid has any signs of burnt plastic or the fluid appears to be even slightly brown in color, change the fluid/filter. When you have everything apart you can remove solonoid and do tests. I would definately have someone help you, it makes life easier.

98roush

what controls the shift silenoids, is it the PCM?